Kona Blue is the 2nd best color, with Red Candy Metallic being in the top spot
Why I Chose The 2010 M.Y. GT500
- Thread starter CobraJet330
- Start date
^^^Yes, my friends 2011 Kona glass roof is the base car w/o SVTPP and it has the wheels that I see on the OP 2010, I was just wondering if they were the same, which you are saying they are....
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One of my best friends had a Kona Blue 2010 GT500 that I was able to test drive... we joked afterwards about me blowing the carbon off the spark plugs 
The interior is definitely a step up from the 07-09s. The stock 3.55 rear gear is perfect with stock diameter rear tires, in my opinion. I will eventually refresh or replace my rear axle assembly and will install an Eaton TruTrac with 3.55 ring and pinion gears. For my intended use and my level of modifications, I am content with an earlier model.
2010 interior:
The interior is definitely a step up from the 07-09s. The stock 3.55 rear gear is perfect with stock diameter rear tires, in my opinion. I will eventually refresh or replace my rear axle assembly and will install an Eaton TruTrac with 3.55 ring and pinion gears. For my intended use and my level of modifications, I am content with an earlier model.2010 interior:
Great color choice
Here's a tip for helping restore the front spoiler and black side and rear trim parts if they faded a little.
I tried a lot of them ... like Mothers Back to Black, Meguiars Ultimate Black and some others (have Cerakote too but too afraid to try it after seeing some of the results and once it is on it is near impossible to clean off). I found that the old green Turtle Wax Trim Restorer was one of the best. But don't follow their instructions. I put it on fairly trick, rub it on well and have it soaked, and then I leave it on for a few hours...NOT 5 minutes like it says. Then wipe it off and let if sit for a hour and then repeat with another heavy coat leaving it on for a couple of hours. Then wipe off the residue and let it dry overnight. It will last for quite a few months even outside in the rain. If used on the window trim it will run a little during the first rain but not much. After the first wash it usually no longer runs. This is all I use now for my trim. I may have used it on my tires too...can't recall.
I tried a lot of them ... like Mothers Back to Black, Meguiars Ultimate Black and some others (have Cerakote too but too afraid to try it after seeing some of the results and once it is on it is near impossible to clean off). I found that the old green Turtle Wax Trim Restorer was one of the best. But don't follow their instructions. I put it on fairly trick, rub it on well and have it soaked, and then I leave it on for a few hours...NOT 5 minutes like it says. Then wipe it off and let if sit for a hour and then repeat with another heavy coat leaving it on for a couple of hours. Then wipe off the residue and let it dry overnight. It will last for quite a few months even outside in the rain. If used on the window trim it will run a little during the first rain but not much. After the first wash it usually no longer runs. This is all I use now for my trim. I may have used it on my tires too...can't recall.
Thanks for the tip! I’ve always had good results when using Turtle Wax products. Im sure their Trim Restorer works a treat.
My Shelby has been garaged it’s entire life and kept under a fitted cover. Hopefully the trim doesn’t show signs of fading anytime soon.
I will keep this in mind just in case.
Thanks again,
Vuskool
Great write up! You hit most of the points that I used as reasons to get my 2010. One other point I pondered on was price. The 2010's were reasonable when I bought mine, $29k with 30k miles. The step up to an 11-12 was around $38k with similar miles. I could afford it but I figured I'd save the $ and put it towards the mods that I wanted. Like you said, adding a wideband O2 was no big deal. I also did the KB 2.8LC kit and Lund tuned, she's a monster now. I am comfortable knowing the stock motor can take what I am throwing at it, and it has for 2 years now with dozens of track passes under her belt. Mine is also Kona Blue but I think my stripes are silver? I thought the stock wheels were only a 2010 MY thing. I learned in this post that they were also standard on the base 2011's. These are probably the first set of stock wheels that I actually think look good. I kept my stock wheels but switch them out during race season for the "big and skinnies" for the track. Sure, the 11-14's have more refinements and upgrades but for the $, you can't beat what the 2010 has to offer. That's the natural progression of vehicles, always has been, always will be. Look how much the 2020-2022 GT500 has improved over the 2014. Bottom line, all GT500's are cool cars. I've wanted one for a long time after owning a handful of GT's. I'm extremely happy with mine.
What kind of times is she putting down?
So far with the Lund tune, best I've run is 12.2. That's at 5600' elevation at Bandimere Speedway. I'm almost at the end of the stock 47# injectors, so that's going to be it. I can't change injectors if I want to be able to pass emissions with the KB tune unfortunately.
I've owned two GT500s, with a budget to buy any year. I have specifically sought, and bought only 2010 models. I had a brand new vert, sold it in 2014, bought a coupe. Love the 2010s for all the reasons mentioned above. The 2013+ are just too overpriced, and I don't need all those upgrades it came with, for how I enjoy the car.
and here i was expecting to say you bought the bastard step child GT500 because you grew up a middle child and know how it feels
your reasoning and rationale is solid. i agree with all of your points. i love 07-09 because i LOVE the retro look of them. but the interior on the 10+ and other improvements cannot be denied. but not enough to the point for me to jump ship from my car. ive told myself i would only do so if the smog issue becomes a major issue for me, and in that case i would go 13/14 and leave the power stock (more than enough for me).
i do prefer the lighter weight of the aluminum block cars but the durability of an iron block is hard to beat, especially if you plan to add significant power. my cars suspension is dialed in pretty well so it handles great. the aluminum block isnt going to turn it into a corvette lol, though im sure you can feel the difference when comparing the two.
there is no wrong choice for a GT500. they are all excellent and have their own pros and cons (albeit minor ones).
im just glad i own one because id hate to be in the market for one these days... and welcome to the club!
your reasoning and rationale is solid. i agree with all of your points. i love 07-09 because i LOVE the retro look of them. but the interior on the 10+ and other improvements cannot be denied. but not enough to the point for me to jump ship from my car. ive told myself i would only do so if the smog issue becomes a major issue for me, and in that case i would go 13/14 and leave the power stock (more than enough for me).
i do prefer the lighter weight of the aluminum block cars but the durability of an iron block is hard to beat, especially if you plan to add significant power. my cars suspension is dialed in pretty well so it handles great. the aluminum block isnt going to turn it into a corvette lol, though im sure you can feel the difference when comparing the two.
there is no wrong choice for a GT500. they are all excellent and have their own pros and cons (albeit minor ones).
im just glad i own one because id hate to be in the market for one these days... and welcome to the club!
The 2010 GT500 is GREAT…until you need a new PCM. Ask me how I know. My 3 year search ended this week on a positive note!
How did you find one?
The 2010 GT500 is GREAT…until you need a new PCM. Ask me how I know. My 3 year search ended this week on a positive note!
Posts like this on another site got me to buy a spare for my 14, before the supply dries up..The 2010 GT500 is GREAT…until you need a new PCM. Ask me how I know. My 3 year search ended this week on a positive note!
.
I’ve spent 5 years and over $5,000 chasing this gremlin. My calibrator, who is well known but I’ll allow them to stay nameless, kept telling me that they don’t see anything in the logs. Well, I’m no expert in reading logs but when the car is running, the MAF counts aren’t supposed to drop to zero.
The A/C would start to blow ambient (not good in So. Florida), the car would start running rough and would try to stall out. This was totally random and got worse with time. The car was essentially not-drivable. Once the cause of the problem was discovered I replaced the MAF sensor and engine harness without luck and I pretty much dialed in on the PCM, at that point. Despite the fact that the car had been to multiple shops and no one could figure it out, all the experts kept saying that it wasn’t the PCM. I disagreed and started looking. Ford discontinues stuff like this at 10 years.
I kept calling and searching EVERYWHERE. I took one last stab and replaced the injectors and O2s at the beginning of July. When the issue started again on the way to work after getting the car back, I texted the wife that I was done and the car was GONE! I took one last stab running the part number and one was on eBay mislabeled as a Mustang GT PCM, but I knew the part number. It was a Ford Remanufactured unit, new in box… $250 Buy It Now!
It was flashed and installed in the car yesterday and for the first time in 5 years, I actually enjoyed driving my car.
The A/C would start to blow ambient (not good in So. Florida), the car would start running rough and would try to stall out. This was totally random and got worse with time. The car was essentially not-drivable. Once the cause of the problem was discovered I replaced the MAF sensor and engine harness without luck and I pretty much dialed in on the PCM, at that point. Despite the fact that the car had been to multiple shops and no one could figure it out, all the experts kept saying that it wasn’t the PCM. I disagreed and started looking. Ford discontinues stuff like this at 10 years.
I kept calling and searching EVERYWHERE. I took one last stab and replaced the injectors and O2s at the beginning of July. When the issue started again on the way to work after getting the car back, I texted the wife that I was done and the car was GONE! I took one last stab running the part number and one was on eBay mislabeled as a Mustang GT PCM, but I knew the part number. It was a Ford Remanufactured unit, new in box… $250 Buy It Now!
It was flashed and installed in the car yesterday and for the first time in 5 years, I actually enjoyed driving my car.
What a relief. Glad to hear that the long search is over and that you’re back on the road.I’ve spent 5 years and over $5,000 chasing this gremlin. My calibrator, who is well known but I’ll allow them to stay nameless, kept telling me that they don’t see anything in the logs. Well, I’m no expert in reading logs but when the car is running, the MAF counts aren’t supposed to drop to zero.
The A/C would start to blow ambient (not good in So. Florida), the car would start running rough and would try to stall out. This was totally random and got worse with time. The car was essentially not-drivable. Once the cause of the problem was discovered I replaced the MAF sensor and engine harness without luck and I pretty much dialed in on the PCM, at that point. Despite the fact that the car had been to multiple shops and no one could figure it out, all the experts kept saying that it wasn’t the PCM. I disagreed and started looking. Ford discontinues stuff like this at 10 years.
I kept calling and searching EVERYWHERE. I took one last stab and replaced the injectors and O2s at the beginning of July. When the issue started again on the way to work after getting the car back, I texted the wife that I was done and the car was GONE! I took one last stab running the part number and one was on eBay mislabeled as a Mustang GT PCM, but I knew the part number. It was a Ford Remanufactured unit, new in box… $250 Buy It Now!
It was flashed and installed in the car yesterday and for the first time in 5 years, I actually enjoyed driving my car.
Any insight into what caused the PCM to fail in the first place? Water damage? Electrical short of some kind? Impact damage?
Also, any chance you still have the failed PCM? It would be interesting to install it on another GT500 (known to be in good working order) and see if the problem(s) you experienced follow. This would confirm the PCM as the root cause and give some closure on the issue.
Love the 2010's for all reasons mentioned. Iron block for the win!
Plus the great looks and interior..... Well done OP
Plus the great looks and interior..... Well done OP
So Ford doesn't have any ECUs in stock, and it's out of production? That's not good at all!
Thank you! I have the PCM. It was the cause. With every other possible repair that I’ve tried, the problem came back within a few miles. It’s been solid all week. No idea what caused the problem, but I would guarantee that they follow the PCM.
The Ford tech that installed the PCM said he’s seen the issues that I had been experiencing once before…on a 2010 GT.
Trust me. I have closure. LOL
You may find some PCM/ECM/ECUs on the various Ford parts warehouse sites. If you order, you be given a refund. If you call, they’ll tell you that no one in the country has one.
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