Whipple or Kenny Bell

Doc2003Cobra

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What would be the total cost for that setup to do it right, suspension upgrades, but just the minimum, not any extra stuff. I want a daily driver but also something reliable. I heard around 6000.00, maybe I'm way off, thanks, Doc. :beer:
 

50 BMG

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Based on your sig, if you want reliability your looking at 6000 minimum on a twin screw swap. You have a lot of other things your going to need to do to get a KB/whipple properly settled into your car.

Off the top of my head, you'll need the following:
REQUIRED-
1) New MAF or MAFia.
2) A ported TB or aftermarket unit
3) The blower itself
4) 55 lb injectors
5) Boost a pump
6) Gords or LFP heat exchanger
7) Tuning software + the tune itself
8) Possibly better tires on the rear

Optional (kinda in order of optional importance)-
1) Headers
2) New clutch/PP (most people burn up their stockers quick with twin screws)
3) New input shaft
4) IRS beef-up or SRA swap.
5) Engine cooling mods
6) Front brake upgrades, better rear brake pads + stainless lines. Keep it safe.

Personally I'd look at the whipple. Hold out for a month and see what these new whipples are going to provide for results.

Hopefully I'll see it down @ pavillions someday with a twin screw. Just remember, don't cut the corners or run more than 16 PSI on 91 octane and it will last a long time.
 
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03ShadowCobra

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I spent right around 5k for everything. Installed and dyno tuned at JDM. Only running 15psi will help the longevity.
kennebelldyno.jpg

I wish I never sold the car though.
 

soccer8888

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50 BMG said:
Optional (kinda in order of optional importance)-
1) Headers
2) New clutch/PP (most people burn up their stockers quick with twin screws)
3) New input shaft
4) IRS beef-up or SRA swap.
5) Engine cooling mods
6) Front brake upgrades, better rear brake pads + stainless lines. Keep it safe.

Good post, I just would say that this list is a bit skewed.

1) New halfshafts, some say level 5's are overkill, but I guess it depends on your application. (maybe this falls under IRS beef-up?)
2) and 3) should be done when the clutch goes.
4) More cooling mods (radiator, external oil cooler, LDC cooling mod, electric pump are all options) IMHO these should be on the necessary list)
 
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RRRR03Cobra

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Based on all of the problems with the Kenne Bell blowers, I would go with a whipple. It seems that every Kenne Bell blower has oil blowing issues.
 

RAZRS EDGE

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RR03COBRA said:
It seems that every Kenne Bell blower has oil blowing issues.
Thats an old issue and has been solved with the new design that does not have the oil catch can.

But honestly, I'd go with the new Whipple. Sounds like it gonna be pretty good. But there is nothing wrong with the KB. Its pretty obvious it makes great power.
 

Grey03Cobra

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I went with the Whipple. All I did was add 60# injectors, a KB BAP and a tune. Right now I'm pullied for 15psi and I've had no problems for over a year, and I've driven it hard.

 

Potentn2o

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Like a lot of you, I went back and fourth between the Whipple and the Kenne Bell for some time. In the end I decided to go with the KB 2.4

So far I have not had any oil issues or other problems. It's been 100%

I have to admit that I do like the looks of the Whipple better than the KB.

When I decided to get the KB, the 2.4 was only two hundred bucks more than the 2.2. In the whole scheme of things, what's two hundred bucks more.

The main reason I decided to get the 2.4 is I figured I wouldn't have to work it as hard. The 2.4 makes four pounds more than the 2.2 with the same pulley. I ordered it with a 3.5" reused my stock belt and made sixteen pounds of boost. I then threw on a 3.25" pulley and made Eighteen pounds.

The car is a 04 with 6000 miles and the following items.

K&N FIPK
SCT BA 2400 MAF Sensor
KB 2.4 w/KB single blade throttle body
60 pound injectors
Focus pumps
SCT X-Cal 2
AFCO dual-pass heat exchanger
Borla #14858 catback

If it's not listed above, It's OEM

The car makes 570 RWHP with 18 pounds of boost. A/F was at 11.5-12.0 across the whole curve and never had more than 20 degrees of timing at any time. I think this would be considered a "safe" tune.

All this was through the stock exhaust. Manifolds to tailpipes.

The OEM clutch just gave up though. That's the next order of business.

I feel that both the KB and the Whipple are good blowers. I think you would be happy with either one.

Just do your research. I don't think you can go wrong with either one.
 
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stangfreak

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Potentn2o said:
Like a lot of you, I went back and fourth between the Whipple and the Kenne Bell for some time. In the end I decided to go with the KB 2.4

So far I have not had any oil issues or other problems. It's been 100%

I have to admit that I do like the looks of the Whipple better than the KB.

When I decided to get the KB, the 2.4 was only two hundred bucks more than the 2.2. In the whole scheme of things, what's two hundred bucks more.

The main reason I decided to get the 2.4 is I figured I wouldn't have to work it as hard. The 2.4 makes four pounds more than the 2.2 with the same pulley. I ordered it with a 3.5" reused my stock belt and made sixteen pounds of boost. I then threw on a 3.25" pulley and made Eighteen pounds.

The car is a 04 with 6000 miles and the following items.

K&N FIPK
SCT BA 2400 MAF Sensor
KB 2.4 w/KB single blade throttle body
60 pound injectors
Focus pumps
SCT X-Cal 2

If it's not listed above, It's OEM

The car makes 570 RWHP with 18 pounds of boost. A/F was at 11.5-12.0 across the whole curve and never had more than 20 degrees of timing at any time. I think this would be considered a "safe" tune.

All this was through the stock exhaust. Manifolds to tailpipes.

The OEM clutch just gave up though. That's the next order of business.

I feel that both the KB and the Whipple are good blowers. I think you would be happy with either one.

Just do your research. I don't think you can go wrong with either one.

what kind of tq did you make
 

postban

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Potentn2o said:
...snip... The 2.4 makes four pounds more than the 2.2 with the same pulley. ...snip...

I have never seen any 2.4 owner make that claim before. Actually I heard they make the exact same boost till 23-25 psi and then the 2.4 will still make boost while the 2.2 runs out of room.
I have friends with 2.2's, will have to see what they say. :shrug:
 

Potentn2o

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I can not speak for the 2.2 as I don't have one.

When I got my 2.4 kit it had two different printouts of boost/pulley combos. One for the 2.2 and another for the 2.4 With the stock lower pulley and a 3.5" blower pulley the paper says 12 pounds for the 2.2 and 16 pounds for the 2.4 The 3.5" pulley was the one I ordered installed on the blower. On the dyno it made 16 pounds. 16.8 @ 6500 RPM to be exact.

I then ordered the 3.25" pulley and installed it. Back on the dyno again, it made 18 pounds. 18.5 @ 6500 to be exact. So far, the chart supplied by KB has been dead on.

When I talked to the guys at KB, they told me that the 2.4 made four more pounds of boost than the 2.2 both being driven at the same speed. That's why I picked the 2.4 I figured I could make the same boost at a lower speed with the 2.4 thus I wouldn't be working the blower as hard/turning it as fast.

For comparison, it would be nice to throw a 2.2 on my car just to compare boost/pulley numbers.
 

Potentn2o

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here is what I think is the issue. Both the 2.2 and the 2.4 have the same maximum limit for blower speeds. For argument sake, lets say at this max speed, the 2.2 puts out 26 pounds. At the same speed, the 2.4 should put out 30 pounds.

I'm sure someone has a more technical explaination about this. This is how I understand it works.

It isn't that you can spin the 2.4 faster thus making more boost. It is that the 2.4 makes four more pounds than the 2.2 through the whole curve. Therefor the 2.4 ends up four pounds higher in the end.

I hope I didn't confuse the whole discussion.
 
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