Whine Groan Sound?

NotSatisfied

NotSatisfied

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Is this whine sound an accessory idler or the power steering pump? Or is normal?

I just changed the rack out, no leaks, rack was bled (wheels back and forth in the air until no more bubbles), good fluid levels, new fluid.

Boost bypass on Whipple is working, just changed out couple months ago. It’s a 3.25 UP and 4# lower. I have Metco idler pulleys on the blower belt already.

New Alternator also…






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MG0h3

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Hard to say with the echo.

Does it make more noise when you turn the wheel? Take a look in the PS reservoir. If the fluid is frothy, it’ll be noisy. Still working the air out.

Can’t recall what I did to mine but had to refill the reservoir and it took longer than most vehicles to bleed out.


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NotSatisfied

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MG0h3 said:
Hard to say with the echo.

Does it make more noise when you turn the wheel? Take a look in the PS reservoir. If the fluid is frothy, it’ll be noisy. Still working the air out.

Can’t recall what I did to mine but had to refill the reservoir and it took longer than most vehicles to bleed out.


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Not really, it’s the same regardless of wheel position and predominantly at idle or lower RPMs. My thought is that it’s maybe an idler on the inside of the pulley bridge (not part of the blower belt system)


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FleeMan

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I remember having to refill the power steering reservoir a couple times and it would make a similar noise to what you are experiencing. Would go away every time I filled it until it went away altogether.
 
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FleeMan said:
I remember having to refill the power steering reservoir a couple times and it would make a similar noise to what you are experiencing. Would go away every time I filled it until it went away altogether.
Click to expand...

Ok sounds good. My level hasn’t dropped but it may later on if air is still in the system


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Black02GT

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+1 on taking the belt(s) off and go from there to narrow it down. I had a hard knock to the point I thought I blew the engine ending up my AC compressor just shit the bed.

Dunno how old your idlers are but just put new bearings in my Metcos. Bang out the old ones, new bearings in freezer, pulley in toaster oven, drop right in.
 
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NotSatisfied

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Black02GT said:
+1 on taking the belt(s) off and go from there to narrow it down. I had a hard knock to the point I thought I blew the engine ending up my AC compressor just shit the bed.

Dunno how old your idlers are but just put new bearings in my Metcos. Bang out the old ones, new bearings in freezer, pulley in toaster oven, drop right in.
Click to expand...

Aren’t there plastic idler pulleys on the other accessory belt system? I’d check but I’m outta town for work.


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Black02GT

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NotSatisfied said:
Aren’t there plastic idler pulleys on the other accessory belt system? I’d check but I’m outta town for work.


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I'll look at it the morning. AC delete kit is plastic for sure. But pretty sure the rest of the stock inner belt system is shitty stamped metal like the factory 8 rib outter system. 100,% my inner tensioner is metal. I'll get out in the AM and take pics if somebody won't answer and save my ass taking pics at 20° and 20 mph wind.

FWiW:
ip4_1.841.jpg

OE inner

Maybe keep my nuts dangling and not in my chest lol.

Only the FRPP AC delete comes with a plastic pulley. Beat the hell out of it got 70k+ with a 4# lower, way over stock compression, and a TVS over 20psi and revving over 7k, holding up.

When you're back pull the outer see if it goes away. Once the belt is off check play in pullies smoothnes in accessory rotation etc. Probably something simple. I get you got a prestine build so a minor nuisance is a big annoyance. For the work you put should be 100% smooth as hell.
 
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Black02GT

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