Which Cobra to buy.

[michschi]

I would like to find one in good shape, but age doesn't really matter to me as much as condition. I already have 03 Mach and an 07 Shelby GT, and I was wondering what Cobra I should consider more 94-95, or 96-98. Should I want the 5.0 or does the 4.6 have the same or more potential. Open to all productive opinions?

Thanks ahead of time,
-Mike

 

[RIO RED SNAKE]

the 94-95 cobra is a cool car...if you have lots of steam get the 95R lol..but i would go for the 96-98 over the 94-95 simply for the better appearance of hood, back bumper and well 7k rpm redline..they are both easy to make power with but the 96-98 is gonna cost more to mod..the 5.0 you can bolt on shit from an explorer and make it fast...my .02 is 96-98 Cobra

 

[STAMPEDE3]

94-95.
You already have a 4V.

I do like the 96-98 hood and bumper as said but that can be changed. I do like the 94-95 crabclaw wing better though.

5.0 is cheaper to build.

 

[COBRA90GT]

Another vote for 94-95...or whatever YOU prefer I guess.

 

[2DXTRM]

..the 5.0 you can bolt on shit from an explorer and make it fast...

Umm, on a 94/95 Cobra, its already got all that (GT40 heads and intake).

 

[amorrow]

I'd also diversify...'94-5.

 

[PSUCOBRA96]

I would say the 94-95 since you already have a mach

 

[michschi]

It would be cool to add another ENGINE as well to my collection, and I do miss my 5.0 since I should my '89 GT!

 

[RIO RED SNAKE]

Umm, on a 94/95 Cobra, its already got all that (GT40 heads and intake).

yea after i typed tht i had no interest in going back to edit it..wasnt in the mood...but you could actually bolt in the rear end out of an explorer for the better gear ratio so ha!!! jk lol but seriously..yea i know :shrug:

 

[mrxr250rider]

since you already have a mach go 94-95. i like 96-98s better even if the 5.0s are cheaper and easier to build dont know why.

 

[MKSVT]

since you already have a mach go 94-95. i like 96-98s better even if the 5.0s are cheaper and easier to build dont know why.

4v with forged rods+pistons and a power adder and you are done.


Teskid FTW!

 

[03TRKB]

Well to be truthful guys the 94/5 and 96-8 are about the same to mod. The 5.0's block won't hold past 500, the teskid well, has anyone broken one? The GT40's are no good past a 306, the B Heads are some of the best flowing. A dart block and trickflow heads are goana run 5000+. You already have a bad ass block and heads so that 5000 can be put into a completely forged motor and rear end. The rear in both are basically the same, so both built are sufficent. The transmissions in both are going to need to he built past a certain point. And the only thing I could see being cheaper is maybe a power adder? But as far as I'm concerned the Modular is cheaper. Why not put the 8500 your going to spend on either and go with a nice KB setup on the Shelby or a Procharger or Eaton swap on the Mach?

 

[RSbeast]

I've had both. I think the 4v's respond to bolt ons VERY well stock and run great. If my 4v was a coupe with more gear; I'd take it all day every day over a 5.0 variant with the same mods. One car will go low 14s; the other will go high 12s. Cold air, gears, hpipe, catback.

The 5.0 will take h/c/i to get to 300rwhp whilst the 4v will go with boltons and a tune.

The TORQUE difference however is night and day as I loved my 5.0 around town more. The 4v has much better manners and none of the 94-95 trivial drivability issues with hanging idles and so forth.

Starting with a GT is $$. A cobra isn't going to be THAT much greater but it's arguably cheaper. We did a budget build on my brothers 94 cobra.

190lph fuel pump > a must as the stockers are usually ailing by now anyhow
regulator w/ gauge > a must as these cars are very sensitive to fuel pressure and timing
stock iron gt40 heads > treated to a port/gasket match
back cut/swirl polish .1mm valves installed
comp springs
scorpion 1.6 RR rockers
ford racing f-cam .512/.512
C&L cold air
summit 75mm throttle body> gasket matched throttle opening on upper
gasket matched lower intake
egr delete
smog delete
ac delete
longtubes
offroad x pipe
spintechs/dumps
MSD coil/cap
3:73 gear
SCT 4 bank chip/ Streetlethal Dynojet tune
Zex 125 shot


On motor the car did 301/330 iirc and 398/510 on the bottle

Street tires on our slow (literally and known uphill QCR) local track on street tires it went mid 13 @ 103/104 iirc. On the bottle it spun badly to a 13.2 or so at 113

I believe a set of tires wouldve set this car into the 12s n/a; albeit higher. On the bottle its tough to say, but at least lower 12s would be capable.

Car was sold for another LS1.

You can figure out the cost on your own; but I'm sure you're realizing it slowly as its not free and you are definately getting into the engine. That said a cammed 5.0 sounds alot cooler than an underwater 4v and the around town torque and grunt is an absolute blast. The downfall is that you will still shift this car max around 6k whereas you pick up another 1k+ rpm with the 4v and it really does help up top.

It's more of a question of where you want to be making power and the use of the car. You have a 4v so try the 5.0; its going to behave very differently for similar track results.

My AFR165/tfs stg1 .498/.510 car...blah blah did 296/315 with .010 too long of pushrods breaking up past 5k on a MUSTANG dyno and ran a best of 13.3 on street tires at 107.9 on the same track. Obviously one dyno reads lower; but after the correction of pushrods I shifted at 6100rpm. The afr's and the favorable cam really shined; the performer 5.0 intake made great street tq; kinda hated it for rpm.

With an s-trim on that combo I lost a rear main and oiled the clutch at 392/389 at 5k and 8psi with no timing. I never had it back to the dyno after but shifted at 6100 and 11psi redline. I'd guesstimate @ 430rwhp + - by the track numbers both goofed and after the cars it ran with after I resolved some issues. (intake/lt/x/catback) LS3 vette that went 12.6 @ 116 stock from various rolls.

Also sold to buy an LS1 lol........however you can see what I ended up with for other reasons.

I've yet to install my t-trim; and I'd like to forge the car first. The only things I can say with confidence is that my car is heavy (3620) and is severely lacking in the torque department. I sure hope some boost fixes it or I am going to be SEVERELY PISSED to loose big $ the second time around aswell.

Resolve? Sell your crap and buy a terminator or something with displacement

Very helpful right?

 

[michschi]

Well to be truthful guys the 94/5 and 96-8 are about the same to mod. The 5.0's block won't hold past 500, the teskid well, has anyone broken one? The GT40's are no good past a 306, the B Heads are some of the best flowing. A dart block and trickflow heads are goana run 5000+. You already have a bad ass block and heads so that 5000 can be put into a completely forged motor and rear end. The rear in both are basically the same, so both built are sufficent. The transmissions in both are going to need to he built past a certain point. And the only thing I could see being cheaper is maybe a power adder? But as far as I'm concerned the Modular is cheaper. Why not put the 8500 your going to spend on either and go with a nice KB setup on the Shelby or a Procharger or Eaton swap on the Mach?

Well the Shelby is already has a Paxton on it. I do plan to keep modding the two I got, but I also want a Cobra to drive, I just gotta have one. Simple as that.

 

[mystical]

Depends on what you're looking for. If you're planning on keeping them stock or mild bolt-on, I'd get the 5L just because you already have a 4V. If you plan on modding it, I'd get the 4V. Sure everyone claims that a Windsor is cheaper to mod but like mentioned anything over 500rw and plan on a new block, not to mention heads, intake and cam will probably be swapped immediately. Rods and pistons are much cheaper then a whole new motor.

 

[2DXTRM]

Whats the goal with the car?

 

[2DXTRM]

The 4v has much better manners and none of the 94-95 trivial drivability issues with hanging idles and so forth.

Without a chip/tune a modified 94-95 will give you those "trivial" issues. If a tuner cant figure them out, find a new tuner.

 

[RSbeast]

BS^^. I've had 5.0 cars at 3 different tuners with 94/95 cars. ALL with SCT 4 banks; some with widebands in configuration from mild boltons; h/c/i nitrous/ blower and 331 combos. Every one gets hanging idle issues/random slow speed stall when turning etc etc. Not wanting to come down quickly.

It's not just internet phenomenon or un-warrented stereotype.

 

[05satinGT]

Whats the goal with the car?

+1 what do you want to do with the car? Buy one so you have one of various bodystyles or buy it to build it?

I say 4V ftmfw :rockon:

 

[2DXTRM]

BS^^. I've had 5.0 cars at 3 different tuners with 94/95 cars. ALL with SCT 4 banks; some with widebands in configuration from mild boltons; h/c/i nitrous/ blower and 331 combos. Every one gets hanging idle issues/random slow speed stall when turning etc etc. Not wanting to come down quickly.

It's not just internet phenomenon or un-warrented stereotype.

My experience: the engine in my car (95) is a 306 h/c/i combo, have a "mail order tune" with a Moates chip from one of the more reputable tuners with 94-95 cars out of Bedford, VA. Even though we have SCT tuners and dealers up here in Toronto, I know they can't tune these 94/95 cars well.

The car runs/drives great, pulls hard on the highway (gearing), idles rock steady around 700-750RPM. No bulls-hit like hanging idles and random stalling when turning. Daily driven (summer season, rain or shine) to and from work (25 miles each way, city traffic/highway traffic), not one "tune" related issue.


Sorry to the OP for straying a little off topic.