I want to make sure the KB chip is providing the correct A/F mixture.... where is a reputable place that can check it out? I live in the Silverdale area... Thanks!
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Where to get tuning checked??
- Thread starter Yell98CobraVert
- Start date
Carb Connection in Kirkland. Meridian, Little monsters in Marysville....
mean saleen said:
Thanks! As soon as the weather clears I'm there! Will they just be able to check A/F ratio, or do they have a dyno as well?
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They check you A/F ratio while you are on the Dyno.
mean saleen said:
I guess there is little doubt that I am clueless when it comes to the dyno proccess! :bash: Never had my 90 Volvo station wagon or 2000 Honda Odysee dynoed...Ha! Ok, sense the cat is out of the bag......do they hook a computer to the EEC? If the A/F mixture is off, do they just change codes in the EEC or do you have to get a totally different chip? What gears do you go through during the dyno and up to what rpm? Does the owner operate their car or do the dyno dudes operate it? As I understand KB, they only recommend a certain type of dyno, that one type of dyno is basically useless; I will check their site again. Thanks "Clueless In Seattle" !
For A/F they run a sniffer in the exhaust unless ya have a bung welded into your H Pipe. You or they can run the car on the Dyno, at Meridian I let them do it and just tell them the target RPM I wanna hit. You do the run in 4th because that gear is a 1:1 ratio. Meridian has a Dynojet. Tuning depends on your tune and whether it's a hand held like Predator or SCT or chip based. If it's chip based, you're stuck with it until ya get the numbers back to your tuner and he makes adjustments. If it's a Predator you can adjust it but only in two large RPM ranges, which sucks. I heard the SCT unit can program down to 100 RPM increments, which is what I need. What type of tuner/chip do ya have and who's your tuner?
CharlieCobra03 said:
I've just installed the KB blower, so I have the KB chip. I'm not sure what "numbers" you are refering to. I am currently looking for a reputable tuner. Thanks!
Ouch! Don't boost past 4-5K RPM's until ya get the A/F checked. The numbers I was referring to are:
Air Fuel Ratio
Torque Curve
HP Curve
MAF voltage
IAT1
IAT2
These are recorded under WOT on the Dyno and broken down to whatever RPM increments the tuner works with in their software package to get the perfect SAFE tune. However, you can't provide any data other than A/F, TQ and HP from the Dyno without a Datalogger of some type to record the rest.
Air Fuel Ratio
Torque Curve
HP Curve
MAF voltage
IAT1
IAT2
These are recorded under WOT on the Dyno and broken down to whatever RPM increments the tuner works with in their software package to get the perfect SAFE tune. However, you can't provide any data other than A/F, TQ and HP from the Dyno without a Datalogger of some type to record the rest.
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None in the area.....you have to outsource your tuning. You can go with Rick at amazon racing, James at rwtd, or Hermann at HBH.....those are the 3 big ones that I can think of. I dont know if they can reflash your chip, but they might be able to. or you can just take the chip out and get a handheld tuner or something along those lines....
Rick
Rick
KB wants you to go to a loading-type dyno (Mustang dyno, Dyna-packs, superflow (i think)), not a dynojet, and I agree with them entirely. The only loading-type dyno's in the area are both Mustang dynos (good!): Blood's, in Auburn, and FAME, in Redmond.
C Weil said:
Thanks! First dry spell I'm there. :beer:
I had my Cobra tuned at Blood Enterprises in Auburn and they run a Mustang Dyno program. They installed a bung and did an excellent job tuning my ratios, fuel/air/back pressure/PSI etc. I don't recommend them for HP & TRQ as they cannot run as a dyno jet.
04COBRA-WA said:
I've got some research to do on this Dyno/tune/ratios/hp stuff. I thought that by tuning the A/F ratio, hp would be gained. Are there any articles that explain in detail the entire process. What I am after is making sure my Cobra is tuned to get the most out of fuel consumption and hp. Do you have to take it to one place to get the A/F ratios, then a different place to make sure you are getting the most hp? .... all new to me. Last time I had a car that I was concerned with tuning was during the late 60's....back then I had enough room to step inside the engine bay, turn a few screws on the carburator, take off the air filter and slamm my foot through the floor board while I watched smoke boil from the rear fender wells ripping the rubber off of those skinny tires! Ha!
You can go to all dyno's to do the same thing, which is tune the car by way of the air/fuel ratio (which is really the only accurate way to tune EFI cars). In any of the cases, you're essentially tuning the car to achieve a safe a/f ratio across the board and to get the most horsepower out of the engine safely.
What he was saying is basically refering to the fact that Mustang dynos will show lower numbers than dynojets in terms of horsepower/torque. This does not mean you need to take it to two dynos or that something is wrong, it's just a difference in how they work. The Mustang dyno imposes a real world load on the car, using it's weight and simulating things like air drag, elevation, ground gradient, etc to measure torque, whereas dynojets just measure acceleration and use that to CALCULATE horsepower. Mustang dynos are much more effective because they simulate it as it would be on the streets.
What he was referring to is, if all you want to see are (unnaturally) high HP and TQ numbers, then go to a dynojet. Mustang dyno's are way better for actual tuning, by far, imo.
Besides, with dynojets, ALL you can tune is wide-open throttle, because the car has to be accelerating for it to calculate anything. With the Mustang dyno, you can do idle tuning, part throttle (at various speeds/gears/rpms), and of course wide-open throttle. If you are concerning about driveability and gas mileage, then the ability to tune light load/part throttle conditions would be reason enough to use a Mustang dyno, as that is where the majority of cruising/driving takes place.
Basically though, all you need to know is you only need to go to one. Unless you're just looking for pretty numbers to show everyone, Mustang dyno's are the way to go, imo.
What he was saying is basically refering to the fact that Mustang dynos will show lower numbers than dynojets in terms of horsepower/torque. This does not mean you need to take it to two dynos or that something is wrong, it's just a difference in how they work. The Mustang dyno imposes a real world load on the car, using it's weight and simulating things like air drag, elevation, ground gradient, etc to measure torque, whereas dynojets just measure acceleration and use that to CALCULATE horsepower. Mustang dynos are much more effective because they simulate it as it would be on the streets.
What he was referring to is, if all you want to see are (unnaturally) high HP and TQ numbers, then go to a dynojet. Mustang dyno's are way better for actual tuning, by far, imo.
Besides, with dynojets, ALL you can tune is wide-open throttle, because the car has to be accelerating for it to calculate anything. With the Mustang dyno, you can do idle tuning, part throttle (at various speeds/gears/rpms), and of course wide-open throttle. If you are concerning about driveability and gas mileage, then the ability to tune light load/part throttle conditions would be reason enough to use a Mustang dyno, as that is where the majority of cruising/driving takes place.
Basically though, all you need to know is you only need to go to one. Unless you're just looking for pretty numbers to show everyone, Mustang dyno's are the way to go, imo.
C Weil said:
Got it! Thanks gentleman for giving me the crash course on the dyno process! :bowdown: I'm sure when I have completed the dyno , all will be clear. I'm not really concerned with #'s unless they are real low; just want to make sure my engine is performing as efficient as possible. :beer: Damn Seattle weather!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mj: :mj: :mj: :mj: :mj: :mj:
Hopefully last dyno question. Ok, I go to Blood's and they say it is running rich at idle and lean at WOT. How do they adjust it? Do they do something to the Kenne Bell chip or EEC or both? Do I contact KB and they alter the chip? :shrug:
Lean at WOT up high is BAD. Contact KB and send them the Dyno file from your session. That's the only thing about chips. Ya can't reflash them like ya can with a handheld ECU tuner. What was your A/F above 3500 and what was your spark advance?
CharlieCobra03 said:
Sorry for the confusion....I was only just giving a scenerio.... it has not been dynoed yet. I was just curious to find out if the dyno dudes corrected the problem there, or if I would have to send the info to KB to get everything running correctly IF there was a problem.
My car may be just fine, I just got the blower installed and have only taken it easy for 2 quick test runs. In fact, due to how quick it starts, how smooth it idles at 750rpm's, how quick it accel to 5,500 rpm's with no hesitation/detonation/exhaust smoke, etc., I will be surprised if there is any significate A/F, fuel pressure issues. To be safe, untill I get it dynoed, I added some octane booster.
dont use octane booster, it will change the color of your plugs. If you want to increase your octane, please get the 100 or more octane gas.......
rick
rick
RickSvt said:
I cannot find any 100 octane here in the Silverdale /Bremerton area.
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