thanks, so i can get the slot style and grow in to it ?
What would you change on your turbo car? (starting my build)
- Thread starter My Cobra
- Start date
You should size your MAF to around 80% of it's capacity. You don't want to go bigger than you need as going too big on the MAF can have low resolution down low and you don't want to go too small as you will run out of room. Looking at your original post and your wanting 700 to the wheels it looks like the SCT3000 would be best to me. If you want to up the power later a MAF switch to a slot style is a simple piping change and tune and you can always sell the SCT3000 later on here. They sell pretty quickly.
I run the BA5000 slot style on my 700 rwhp car with no issues....... I started out at 636 rwhp back in march..... Now after a meth kit and a retune with a small bump in boost I'm at 702 rwhp......my next goal will be 800 thru a auto.
Thats what i,m doing right now.
thanks for the answers. I guess what i am asking is will the slot style work for the set up i have now so i don't have to swap the pipe and re tune later?
You can use the slot but you will still maybe need to change out piping and you will definately need a new tune when you decide to up it later
I have not ordered the kit yet. i am waiting to see which upgrades i need for the kit and if i should get the slot maf. thanks for all the input. Anything else i should change when i order the kit? Who has the best deals on the kits?
I would get the slot style. But then I've been through two MAFs that should have worked. At this point I'll take a loss in low end resolution for a little more room on the top end. Plus things change when you go blow through. The smaller pipe causes the MAF to peg sooner.
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I run a slot MAF with a 3 inch inlet pipe with NO ISSUES.....the key is having a good tuner....
I wouldn't change a thing on my car. However I have slightly tweaked the suspension setup to get the power down better but thats just part of the learning curve.
thanks for all the input.
For me built motor with higher compression. Maybe even more cubes, Stock motor has held up fine so far but man is it a dog with a stick in first gear.
Also going to switch my manifolds to shorties and do custom V-bands, I have blown 2 passenger side gaskets and it is getting old.
Other than that if you want to make over 750 I would do a Precision turbo.
Also going to switch my manifolds to shorties and do custom V-bands, I have blown 2 passenger side gaskets and it is getting old.
Other than that if you want to make over 750 I would do a Precision turbo.
is it worth doing the ball bearing turbo? i know people say to do the Precision turbo but not sure about the ball bearing. I also hear that when you go to rebuilt the ball bearing turbos it is a lot more expensive.
I have a Precesion BB billet 78mm turbo and with the auto trans I would say the BB option is not worth it. I have to ramp in my power with the boost controller anyhow so the BB is a waste for me. Without the slower ramp rate my power comes on so hard it just blows the tires off.
Thanks for the input. I think i am going to stay away from the BB option
I am the opposite when it comes to the bearing selection. I had brand new Precision 6266 journal bearing turbos on my car. The car started smoking while at the tuner. I checked them out and the bearinngs and seals were shot with a lot of shaft play. I sent them back and Precision said it was oil starvation. Well, I've had two previous sets of journal bearing turbos on the car with no issues. So I upgraded to the BB option and got them back on the car. They have a built in restrictor and it take much less oil to lubricate them. To me, less oil required is less oil to return and less possible issues. Also, the BB turbos are more durable and will last longer. The spool difference is probably minimal according to Precision.
Ok. How long did you get out of your non BB turbos?
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