SVT 03 Cobra
New Member
posi is in our stock rear ends? Does it have clutches?
Thanks in advance
Jayson
Thanks in advance
Jayson
What type of....
- Thread starter SVT 03 Cobra
- Start date
Maybe mjchip can help you.He just broke his IRS.
Was racing with only one wheel spinning.He is
taking it apart himself, I believe.
Was racing with only one wheel spinning.He is
taking it apart himself, I believe.
Ken, if your sig is correct that is one amazing factory freak!!! 390/390 at the wheels, and all bone stock!;-)
I believe we have a 31 spline ford trak-lok...I think it uses clutches
I think Nitro runs an Eaton Posi
I think Nitro runs an Eaton Posi
Yes it has clutches. It's Ford's Trac-Lok limited slip unit. Been around for years. Everyday use is ok and on par with other ls diff on the road, but heavy racing will wear it out, same as with others. Limited slips just weren't meant for drag racing.
There are a couple things I know of you can do to tighten it up to make it more aggresive and there may be more, I'll have to check.
As far as high end dependability, I'd switch out if you plan on racing on it regularly.
I think the Thunderbird Super Coupe factory arrangement was 3 frictions/6 steels. I don't know if the Mustang units were set up any different.
There are a couple things I know of you can do to tighten it up to make it more aggresive and there may be more, I'll have to check.
As far as high end dependability, I'd switch out if you plan on racing on it regularly.
I think the Thunderbird Super Coupe factory arrangement was 3 frictions/6 steels. I don't know if the Mustang units were set up any different.
SVT 03 Cobra
New Member
thanxs for the info guys.. and lets say this.... this differental SUCKS
The 31 spline Torsen in my FX4 is very hard to beat. Plus it has no gears to wear out.
There are clutches and we have had great success with the stock Ford uniti n the 400-480 rrwhp range.There mostly road course/drag usage
and we havent seen a blown rear yet,we have replaced axels on a few.If my motor which dynoed at full power 104 octane at 715 rrwhp may force me to a solid rear and I would use the 8.8" as opposed to the 9" I am told just as strong and a weight diff that is lighter and more handling friendly as I use it more for the twisties and grip is a primary concern.I consider the rear suspension to be a hybrid Great handling coupled to decent traction.
I have a stand alone engine mgmt system which I can tweak and tune with cd's and a lap top.I will usually be at around 575-590 in theprogram that pulls back some timing so my 1st runs will be on pump fuel so I will add some 104about 6 gallons per tankful just as a safety measure,better then the grenade.
and we havent seen a blown rear yet,we have replaced axels on a few.If my motor which dynoed at full power 104 octane at 715 rrwhp may force me to a solid rear and I would use the 8.8" as opposed to the 9" I am told just as strong and a weight diff that is lighter and more handling friendly as I use it more for the twisties and grip is a primary concern.I consider the rear suspension to be a hybrid Great handling coupled to decent traction.
I have a stand alone engine mgmt system which I can tweak and tune with cd's and a lap top.I will usually be at around 575-590 in theprogram that pulls back some timing so my 1st runs will be on pump fuel so I will add some 104about 6 gallons per tankful just as a safety measure,better then the grenade.
There are clutches and we have had great success with the stock Ford uniti n the 400-480 rrwhp range.There mostly road course/drag usage
and we havent seen a blown rear yet,we have replaced axels on a few.If my motor which dynoed at full power 104 octane at 715 rrwhp may force me to a solid rear and I would use the 8.8" as opposed to the 9" I am told just as strong and a weight diff that is lighter and more handling friendly as I use it more for the twisties and grip is a primary concern.I consider the rear suspension to be a hybrid Great handling coupled to decent traction.
I have a stand alone engine mgmt system which I can tweak and tune with cd's and a lap top.I will usually be at around 575-590 in theprogram that pulls back some timing so my 1st runs will be on pump fuel so I will add some 104about 6 gallons per tankful just as a safety measure,better then the grenade.
Also I run a stock setup on my Z06 and thats (for now) dailt driver,427 c5r Daytona winning motor pretty nuke proof at 8.5:1 CR and at 17 Lbs. boost and great air flow I hit 950rrwhp and almost 1200 lbs. of tqe.I ha ve beatin the poopie out of the unit and I chage my drive line fluids every 1000-3000 miles and with all the abuse never a problem.Looking at both difs I see no remarkable diffsI think you guys will be surprised in the strength this unit has.I have alot of bolt onpieces and Sean engineered me a new brace piece with bushings that I cant explain because me know know.
What I do know for sure is eliminate wheel hop Sean has some great rear anti hop shocks I use in my shop and I highly recomend.Well more than 50% of the damage is done with hop great tires are needed and the 555dr nittos grab great when heated at 18 lbs pressure.couple that with the braces and bushings,and drag shocks and you got a car that will have amuch stronger and rigid rear unit.Dave S.
PS Good Luck.Dave S.(Sorry so long)
and we havent seen a blown rear yet,we have replaced axels on a few.If my motor which dynoed at full power 104 octane at 715 rrwhp may force me to a solid rear and I would use the 8.8" as opposed to the 9" I am told just as strong and a weight diff that is lighter and more handling friendly as I use it more for the twisties and grip is a primary concern.I consider the rear suspension to be a hybrid Great handling coupled to decent traction.
I have a stand alone engine mgmt system which I can tweak and tune with cd's and a lap top.I will usually be at around 575-590 in theprogram that pulls back some timing so my 1st runs will be on pump fuel so I will add some 104about 6 gallons per tankful just as a safety measure,better then the grenade.
Also I run a stock setup on my Z06 and thats (for now) dailt driver,427 c5r Daytona winning motor pretty nuke proof at 8.5:1 CR and at 17 Lbs. boost and great air flow I hit 950rrwhp and almost 1200 lbs. of tqe.I ha ve beatin the poopie out of the unit and I chage my drive line fluids every 1000-3000 miles and with all the abuse never a problem.Looking at both difs I see no remarkable diffsI think you guys will be surprised in the strength this unit has.I have alot of bolt onpieces and Sean engineered me a new brace piece with bushings that I cant explain because me know know.
What I do know for sure is eliminate wheel hop Sean has some great rear anti hop shocks I use in my shop and I highly recomend.Well more than 50% of the damage is done with hop great tires are needed and the 555dr nittos grab great when heated at 18 lbs pressure.couple that with the braces and bushings,and drag shocks and you got a car that will have amuch stronger and rigid rear unit.Dave S.
PS Good Luck.Dave S.(Sorry so long)
Correction
In leu of Davidmax's post, yes, the Trac-Lok can withstand plenty of road course grinding if set up properly as that was the type of environment it was intended for. But for drag racing, it should either be rebuilt periodically or swapped out for a more aggresive unit depending on how much you drag race. Sorry I was not more clear the fist time. Thanks for the info, David.
In leu of Davidmax's post, yes, the Trac-Lok can withstand plenty of road course grinding if set up properly as that was the type of environment it was intended for. But for drag racing, it should either be rebuilt periodically or swapped out for a more aggresive unit depending on how much you drag race. Sorry I was not more clear the fist time. Thanks for the info, David.
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