What is this belt called and how do you replace it?

04cobruh

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What is this belt called so I can go about ordering a new one?

And how how do you replace it?
Does anything have to come off to get to it, or is there any special tricks?

Came home and when i pulled onto my street I heard what sounded like gravel being run over, but under the hood. When I go her Into the garage I smelled a burnt smell and started inspecting everything. I then came up on this shredded belt and some pieces of it on top of the motor:/
 

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svtshadow

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Looks like the inner belt. Outer belt and its stuff gotta come out. If you have a caged lower, i think that needs to come out too. And check you pulleys and idlers and also AC compressor pulley to make sure they are ok.
 

mkb116

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Yes, it sucks because you have to take off the lower pulley cage and loosen the blower idler bridge, as well as disconnect some coolant hoses and the coolant tanks. About a 90 to 120 minute job if your pretty familiar, id say 150-180 if your not. But if you wanna tackle it yourself, we'll help ya! You either need a breaker bar and 14mm (or 17mm can't remember, I think it's 14) Allen head socket or an impact to get the lower cage off.

I'd call and get some quotes first and see how much they will charge to replace it if your not very mechanically inclined.
 
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hotcobra03

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That looks like a pulley bearing locked up and caused belt to break..


job is very easy ..however if stock caged lower

if yes and your doing job your self loosen that lower 1st..

its taken up to 3 days for some to get that 1 bolt to crack..

if you get that loose rest of job is basic...
 

mkb116

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If any of the pulleys locked up your going to see lots of rubber specs near the pulley from rubbing on a pulley that doesn't want to turn..
 

04cobruh

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Thank you for the electronic manual link!!! Ok, well I guess I'm going to try and tackle this bitch. I was thinking that a idler seized as well. I can't find the right belt though. Does anyone know of a part number?
 

Woody6799

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Gates K060960 is the belt. While you are in there do all the pulleys, they are cheap enough and you will not want to do it again. I just did the inner belt and trust me, it was quite the job. Just remember that the crank bolt is reverse thread and it is going to take a real amount of effort to get it off. Everything else is pretty basic.
 

Gixxerride04

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I ended up putting a breaker bar on the crank bolt, then using a floor jack to break it free. Alot easier doing it this way. Had the tranny in 5th I believe and the ebrake pulled. After a couple pumps it broke free. Some say it makes a loud popping noise like something broke when it breaks free, but mine didn't make much noise at all.

I also changed all the bearings in my idler pulleys and the 2 belt tensioner pulleys as well. Believe they are 6203. Have to double check.
 

04cobruh

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Thank you guys for all the info! I plan on changing all the idlers with motorcraft ones. I'm going to clean up that area and replace whatever I can while I have all of that stuff off. I think it's the top robbed pulley that seized. Friday I will start tackling the job.
I'm pretty mechanically inclined but haven't done much on the 04 engine as of yet. So only one way to get to know everything!
 

04cobruh

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Sweet. Well I'm glad I don't need to drain any fluids then:)

I'll let you all know how the tear down goes tomorrow.
 

04cobruh

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So I got the belt off in pieces. Here a pic of the other part wrapped around the pulley. The bolts for the pulley bridge are off and the only thing g holding me back is the 14mm hex head. All of the idlers spin freely, water pump,ac and power steering all spin freely. Maybe the belt was just bad? There is a small ding on the crank pulley and that's the only thing I can think of that may have damaged the belt.

Hard to tell but it's wrapped around there tight!
44E5213A-B158-4352-8D6E-63C75DA05882_zpsekay3lte.jpg




Here's the ding on the pulley

3C46901C-D567-416B-9482-3B2EC92AA88B_zpsfbranyqp.jpg
 

lobra97

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thats fun, replaced my inner like 3 xs already lol. i can do it in about 30 mins now.
it was easier to drain my coolant res and just make more room to get in. i ended up going to napa and replacing the tensioner pulley, its actually the same part as an f150 pulley. just pop off and put a new one on if its giving you problems. if you've burped and refilled before the draining actually makes it easier to work around, least it was for me. take pics if you think you'll get stuck and feel free to ask if you need help. pulley bridge is only like 4/5 bolts.

replace those pulleys while you're there if they need it, one and done.
i actually think i made a thread on it...twassss fun
 
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04cobruh

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I plan on replacing the idlers since I'm in there. It seems like taking the coolant reservoirs off would be easier. We'll see once I get the lower cage off. I just need to grab a 14mm hex head.
You think that ding in the pulley would cause the belt to shred?
 

lobra97

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I plan on replacing the idlers since I'm in there. It seems like taking the coolant reservoirs off would be easier. We'll see once I get the lower cage off. I just need to grab a 14mm hex head.
You think that ding in the pulley would cause the belt to shred?

yeah it could be if its dinged just right. i actually went back and tightened everything to spec and the idler stop shredding my belts. you could unplug the reservoir and drain it by the thermostat for a quick drain.that's how i ended up doing it and just taking the res off after.

edit, those dings could be walking it over or just plain shredding it since its spinning at a high rpm all the time.


i had an lfp cage on the bottom and it was such a pain in the ass to take off. i ended up putting that plumbers tape (white tape) around the head of the bolts to give it a lil gap. no way in hell i am spending a week trying to get that bolt off again.
 
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