Too late. Already have. Just curious what gets changed to make it work properly and with the 65mm cobrajet throttle body.
This^ The tuner will probably make a global change to the maf table and get in the ballpark but there may need to be some fine tuning for idle / drivability / wot. The maf curve is what the entire tune is based on and you are changing that with a different maf. You might get lucky and have the car start but definetly will need a custom tune.
At the time I was told it would pick up some torque and horsepower. Just to be clear, this is the 13-6 kit that Revan sells. It did make the throttle more responsive and since I needed a tune for the 3.73 gears and 170 t stat, I figured I may as well install it. The reason I am asking all these questions is that since the filter change and revised tune I got from JLT I've been having all kinds of issues. It could be that something sensor is not working right and its just a coincidence since I re-loaded the old tune and its till doing the same thing (difficult starting-engine revs up to 1200rpm and then tries to stall, catches and settles at the proper rpm), wonky idle-sometimes drops 250rpm when first stopped and the settles at 750 rpm, LTFT is low at cruise speeds-2500rpm 3rd gear, -17 B2, -14 bank 1, and higher at idle -9 B2, -5 B1. Vacuum at steady state driving seems high at 22-23hg/in. The distance to empty is way off. 500km to empty full (used to be 350). I've reset the computer several times and reloaded the Lund tune twice. This tune has been fine for the last 5 years unless its corrupted. Do these things have a MAP sensor and a MAF? I cant find reference to it in the service manual
In hind sight Yes! I guess the reason for it is not thinking one had anything to do with the other. At this point I'm baffled. Last week it was just a slight surge. Since the filter change, new tune loaded, old tune loaded, poor start up and and unsettled idle, high negative fuel trims where prior to this there was no problems. Is the ECU scrambled, did a sensor coincidentally start going bad when all these revisions were being loaded/old tunes loaded. I'm just looking for the best approach to get it back to normal. I could throw all the old OEM air intake on. The speedo will be out, and the fans wont be set up for the colder thermostat. I think the cobrajet throttle body wont make a difference.
Probably just need a custom tune done for your mods. Someone you can send datalogs to so they can adjust.
I was trying to do that buy for some reason I cant get communication. At this point I've put the oem cold air back on, replacing the plugs with TR6s. I'll keep the cobrajet throttle body on for now and the headers, 170 stat. I load the old oem tune from lund modified for the 3.73s and see what happens. Worst comes to worst it'll be off to the dealer. They can see what the sensors PCM are doing. Honestly, I just street drive. I dont need JLT unit. I get a proper 93, header, 170, 3.73 , cj throttle body tune based on the oem cold air.
If you are using a sct device like a xcal 4 I would take the time and get live link 2 working so you can see what car is doing. It's such a huge benefit for you and your tuner. Trying to adjust a tune without datalogs is like trying to drive blind folded.
I think it was the tune. When you changed to the jlt they change the maf transfer function. Requiring data logging and a custom tune. When in doubt reinstall the factory parts.
According to Revan, that kit ($1600 seems high to me for what you're getting) nets an additional 75-100 RWHP. The tune is the most critical component. I have to agree with @me32, though, about sticking with the factory housing and just going with a higher flowing air filter. And then I would have done a custom tune. I'll bet you dollars to donuts that you'd net about the same increase in RWHP, depending on the tune.
