What gears for AODE 4v?

[CTs2Fast96GT]

Ok heres the story im putting a 4v in my gt. :banana: epper: It will have full exhaust, jlt ram air, 62mm throttle body, tubular K and A's, DR, and a 100 shot of dry. All will have to be tuned so it will be safe. Im putting an AODE tranny behind it with a 3000rpm stall and a shift kit. What gears should i run? I ran the calculator a few threads down and 4.30 and 4.56 seem maybe a little high specially if i use a little juice. I drive the car daily and will soon be off to college. Never had a car with gears either. Thanks Josh

 

[STAMPEDE3]

I would see what most Auto Mach1 guys are using. They have more knowledge on autos on th 4V.
JMO

Unless someone else here has experience that can feild this one.

 

[Ghost]

Same gear you would use with a stick shifted 4v with the same combonation. Your still going to be crossing the finish line in 3rd (or stick case 4th) but they're both a 1.00 gear in both transmissions, meaning the gear needed to make it run properly in the 1/4 is the same.

Judging by your modifications, I'd go with a 4.30 on a 17" DR, 4.10 if you ever plan to hit it with more than just a 100 shot and/or dont want to rev it 6500+. I think you should be trapping in the 115 range. Also, dont bother with a BBK twin 62mm, leave the stock TB it works better and causes less tunability/driveability issues.

 

[CTs2Fast96GT]

Yea the only reason i was looking at the bbk 62mm is because the one on my motor is broken but i will just replace it with a stocker. I will leave the n2o below a 100 shot i already swore to myself just not sure if i wana run wet or dry.

Also what Et do you think i will be running on this set up?

 

[Ghost]

It depends alot on suspension, weight, tire. On a stock weight car on a 17" Dr with stock style suspension, I think 12.20s are realistic on the juice if set up properly, on a 100 shot, but than again it depends again on nitrous kit, with an NX Kit I would only expect a 12.40, NX I'd expect a 12.20. Theres alot to it, feel free to PM me...I'd be willing to help you with your combonation and numbers, I just dont really see posts that often, PMs I get a warning in my E-mail so I'd be able to respond to you quicker. Or feel free to e-mail me directly at [email protected]

As for nitrous on a 4v engine. I personally don't like dry as it, in most cases, causes a fuel pressure spike to componsate for the nitrous, but its never accurately timed. Both systems will need a tune to componsate. Get an NX wet system, with a FP safety switch, window switch, heater, purge, NGK TR6s and that should be all you need.

 

[CTs2Fast96GT]

I think im going with 4.30s. Anyone else?

 

[grandestang]

I don't think you should go with 4.30s with the auto. I don't know if you'd need that much gear especially with a 3000 rpm stall. Especially if you drive the car daily and will be going to college. I'm gonna get bashed for this, but I say go with 3.73s or 3.90s with the AOD with a 3000 stall. The looser than stock stall will give you enough to get off the line quick enough that I think you'll be fine with a lower gear ratio.

If it were a 5 speed I'd say go 4.30s all the way. But a big reason why the 5 speed guys like the 4.30s is because it gets them outta the whole fast and keeps them in the powerband. But I think the 3000 stall is already giving you a little bit of an advantage in this regard so I don't know if you'll necesarily need the gear. NO DOUBT you'll run faster with 4.30s, but I guess you just have to know what you're looking for in your car. JMO but I have my flame suit on just in case.

Paul

 

[doubletrouble]

I don't think you should go with 4.30s with the auto. I don't know if you'd need that much gear especially with a 3000 rpm stall. Especially if you drive the car daily and will be going to college. I'm gonna get bashed for this, but I say go with 3.73s or 3.90s with the AOD with a 3000 stall. The looser than stock stall will give you enough to get off the line quick enough that I think you'll be fine with a lower gear ratio.

If it were a 5 speed I'd say go 4.30s all the way. But a big reason why the 5 speed guys like the 4.30s is because it gets them outta the whole fast and keeps them in the powerband. But I think the 3000 stall is already giving you a little bit of an advantage in this regard so I don't know if you'll necesarily need the gear. NO DOUBT you'll run faster with 4.30s, but I guess you just have to know what you're looking for in your car. JMO but I have my flame suit on just in case.

Paul

I agree totally. 4spd Auto + daily driver=3.90s, especially with a stall.

 

[CTs2Fast96GT]

Definatly a different perspective. I just want this thing to fly like a bat out of hell for a 1/4. Cruising rpms i just want that a little reasonable not drastically high. More or less a reasonable cruising rpm, not too much top end, and a crazy ape in the 1/8 and 1/4.

 

[96cobrakid]

one of my good friends has an Auto Mach1 witha 3800 stall in it with 4.30's. The 4.30's are too much gear. He has 4.10's waiting to go in it. the 4.30's are not good at the track. hes losing mph big time b/c of them. he only trapped 110 on a 12.06 pass. I would not recomed going with 4.30's.

get on www.mach1registry.com and ask the Mach guys what they think or do a search. You will have better luck

 

[STAMPEDE3]

Most of the Mach1 guys are going 4.10 from what I've read.

 

[na svt]

What's more important, your top speed in the quarter or how fast you get to the finish line?

You can't comapre a Mach 1 engine to your engine. Also, autos need more gear than a manual so go with nothing less than 4.30s, especially for a b-headed engine.

Ask the guys over on corral.net, their answers should be quite different (no 3.73s for a 4v over there). A few of them have automatic B-headed 4Vs.

 

[STAMPEDE3]

You can't comapre a Mach 1 engine to your engine. Also, autos need more gear than a manual so go with nothing less than 4.30s, especially for a b-headed engine.

Why not?
Stock the Mach puts out a little more HP and TQ with a flatter TQ curve.
With his mods (such as longtube headers) evens that up and then some. Asking what the mach guys are using as a reference point is not a bad idea.

 

[na svt]

Why not?
Stock the Mach puts out a little more HP and TQ with a flatter TQ curve.
With his mods (such as longtube headers) evens that up and then some. Asking what the mach guys are using as a reference point is not a bad idea.

Unlike men, all 4V, 4.6s are not created equal. A Mach 1 engine does not have B-heads so it has more torque down low so it can use a lower numerical gear. A B-headed engine has no torque down low so any 3.xx gear will defintitely not work. 4.10s would be the absolute lowest numerical gear to go with but 4.30s and 4.56s would be best.

Don't Fear the Gear!

 

[96cobrakid]

I know you can't compare them like apples to apples, but most auto 4V's are Mach's, so its a good ref. point. I wouldn't go more than 4.10's, but do what you want

 

[Ghost]

Actually, comparing Machs to a auto cobra is actually quite different. The shift point is different right off the bat, most auto mach's are shifting at 6k (Can't spin them as high with the cast crank) where as you need to shift a B headed 4v at 6500+, with an auto 6500 is acceptable.

Drag racing is based on the concept that based on your tire size and maximum RPM, you want to be in the top gear before overdrive at the finish line at your maximum horsepower. You can compare your car to anything, a Honda civic if you want its got the same validity (sp?) as comparing to a Mach, but when it comes down to it, its a fricken math equation. With a 100shot get 4.30s if you want it to work correctly, simple as that, on a 17" Dr with a stock style weight and suspension.

 

[CTs2Fast96GT]

Well it will get lowers and uppers eventually. I think 4.30s are going to be my choice. then change later if i need to. I will let you know how it goes :beer: Thanks for the replies guys Josh

 

[dam2v]

I would go with 4.30's if it was all motor, but 4.10's if you're going to spray

 

[New Mach]

Surprised know has mentioned this... The Mach auto tranny has a .70 final ratio compared to the manual .62 final ratio, what that means is if you put 410's in a manual it would be like putting 456's in an auto.

If I well you (and I have complete clarity on you goals), and woudn't even consider anything higher than the 410's and IMO, 390's might serve you best.

Hope this helps,

Michael

 

[CTs2Fast96GT]

Well i was kind of wondering if going in the middle would be my best bet! I just dont want to small of a gear. I will give it some time i have a little bit to decide :read: :beer: