What direction should I go?

[2003Terminator]

I sure that this is not the right forum I should be asking this question but I could really use some help here. Right now I'm deployed to Iraq and I will be going back to Oklahoma City in mid Jan. When I get home I want to put about 5 grand into my term but I'm having a tough time finding which direction to take. So far I know that I want black 17x9 and 17x10.5 fr500 wheels wrapped with GS-D3's since it is my DD. I don't know what Spacer I will need since I here that Goodyears are one of the wider 315's in the market. I am leaning toward the Steeda sport springs but don't know if I should keep the iso's or not. For the exhaust I want to get a full Bassani with no cats. I will probably get a SCT tuner because I live in Oklahoma City, OK and I here that Jim from Southwest Tuning is an excellent tuner. I appreciate any help you guys can give me.


He who makes a beast of himself gets rid of the pain of being a man.
Dr. Samuel Johnson

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

I would go with the race springs instead of the sports. Looks like you have done your homework otherwise, I'm not sure about the spacer with those wheels though.

 

[2003Terminator]

does anyone else have any suggestions on what else I should add?

 

[2003Terminator]

I have heard that I would need to run a spacer with the GS-D3's since they are 315 because that are so wide.

 

[Posi]

Brace and subframes somewhere in there. Along with a CAI and custom tune.

 

[Redneckbmxer24]

for spacing, i had 315 GSD3's on 17X10.5 chrome cobras. i had low profile IRS bolts, and a 3.8" spacer, and had more than enough clearance, but i think if i was lowered, the wheels would have contacted the fender. the 17X10.5 FR500's, and the 17X10.5 03's both have a +27MM offset.

i would first try it with only a low profile IRS bolt. that should be perfect. if not, you may have to use 1/8" spacer, 1/4 at the most. but i think 3/8" spacers will be too much, and will rub your fender. i changed my rims when i lowered that car, so i never got to test.

what are your other mods though?

i wouldnt waste my time with bassni mid length headers, they're junk.

i think i would mod in this order:

irs brace 150
MGW shifter 180
intake of choice 150-200
catback of choice 500-800
subframe connectors 150
Mac longtubes 420
lethal O/R X 165
lowering kit 250
caster/camber plates 200
wheels/tires 1300 +/-
upper pulley 150
snub idler 125
tuner 400 with mail order tune

i would do the intake, catback, shifter, subframes, and IRS brace first. then do headers, suspension, wheels/tires. so you only have to do an alignment once.

then of course your check engine light is going to come on for cat efficiency, amongst other things, so immediatly after i would get a SCT Xcal with a mail order tune, and pulley, until you can get to have it tuned.

 

[2003Terminator]

i appreciate the help guys. I'm not sure where else to go on the mods. I was thinking of getting a heat exch if I have some money left over. what size of pulley would you recommend running?

 

[RDJ]

I know there are TONs of people that use mail order tunes but frankly I stear clear of them. Take it to Jim and get a tune specifically for your car based on real life numbers instead of guesstements and assumptions used in a mail order tune. SCT is an excellent way to go and is what I have.

Other than that KingChronic's list is pretty good. I would move the subframe connectors up to number 2 on the list. Maximum Motorsports full length weld ins are what I had put in my car.

I would also suggest 4.10 gears as an early Mod. 4.10s are the shiznit in these cars IMHO and rather than just springs I would put in maximum Motorsports coil overs with their caster/camber plates.

I used the BBK Cold air intake. I also had a strut tower brace installed, and this is where it got a little tricky. NO ONE makes a strut tower brace that will clean the BBK cold air intake so my shop took a Maximum Motorsports brace and "reengineered" it to raise the intake side slightly. once it was painted you cant tell that anything was done but I didn't have to dimple my intake LOL!

I left my car in the shop in MAY of 06 after owning it for over a yead and only driving it two days total and came back out to the sandbox. Drove it for the first time after 18 months away ... and DAYUM am I a happy pup LOL.

I did full bassani SS exhaust (with hi-flow cats), cold air intake and a tune and am putting 415 to the ground .... (not gonna do the pully thing since I don't drag race).

 

[CobraBob]

Ouch RDJ. LOL! Sorry, but I disagree with something you said about mail order tunes. "Guesstimates" and "assumptions" would be a bit misleading. You do say that tons of people use them, but I just think those two words cast a shadow over some excellent shops like HBH, Lethal Performance, Amazon Tuning, MileHiDyno, RWTD, and others. I had an Amazon mail order tune and it was spot on.

We both agree that a shop/dyno tune is usually (but not always) better, but not every has the money for a dyno tune and not everyone lives within a reasonable driving distance from one. JMO.

 

[CobraBob]

i appreciate the help guys. I'm not sure where else to go on the mods. I was thinking of getting a heat exch if I have some money left over. what size of pulley would you recommend running?

The size pulley (upper or lower) you go with will depend on how much boost you're looking for. I loved (and still recommend) the Reichard Racing 2.90 upper. I would only go smaller if you intend on racing and aren't concerned about the increased heat generated by the faster spinning blower. You might consider porting the blower which will make it more efficient. You can also increase your max boost that way. IMO you need to really set your mind on what your goals are. Many are content with a daily driver (occasional racing) making 450-460rwhp. Others just have to have north of 500. You have a ton of options to consider. Believe me, it can be mind boggling.

 

[2003Terminator]

You tellin me CobraBob. I'm trying to keep it a daily Driven car for now.

 

[Corona-Extra]

irs brace 150
MGW shifter 180
intake of choice 150-200
catback of choice 500-800
subframe connectors 150
Mac longtubes 420
lethal O/R X 165
lowering kit 250
caster/camber plates 200
wheels/tires 1300 +/-
upper pulley 150
snub idler 125
tuner 400 with mail order tune

i would do the intake, catback, shifter, subframes, and IRS brace first. then do headers, suspension, wheels/tires. so you only have to do an alignment once.

then of course your check engine light is going to come on for cat efficiency, amongst other things, so immediatly after i would get a SCT Xcal with a mail order tune, and pulley, until you can get to have it tuned.

good info. listen to this man. thats pretty much what i've got going on with mine and i put dont some pretty bad ass numbers according to the tuner.. and follow your idea with the H/E... get a dual pass..