What did you do for your Terminator today?

98 svt

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Sure do! It made a huge improvement in the car. Other than my VMP setup it is probably my favorite thing I have done to the car. I heard the solid steering rack bushings make a huge difference as well.


They most certainly do. Before I went with the tubular K, the solid bushings on the stock K we're one of my favorite mods as far as suspension goes. It was very noticeable.
I think these days, every SN95 could benefit from a solid shaft and steering rack bushings. SN95s are now 18-25 years old.
 

CJHAMIL

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They most certainly do. Before I went with the tubular K, the solid bushings on the stock K we're one of my favorite mods as far as suspension goes. It was very noticeable.
I think these days, every SN95 could benefit from a solid shaft and steering rack bushings. SN95s are now 18-25 years old.
I felt bad because I paid the shop that did my blower a lot of money to tuck lines, wires, and other things to make it look well put together only for me to geek out about the feel of the steering wheel.
 

Goocher0310th

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Put on an easy mod. Harpell Auto Fab Radiator cover. I wanted to preserve my stock one that has Coletti’s sig so I bought a new one. Phil does amazing work. This thing is perfect.
 

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blownfox

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Finally got around to changing my exhaust. Have the old LT's off. Do you guys change hardware to bolts or just replace the m8x1.25 nuts? The ARH came with bolts but the old kooks had nuts.
 

geoffmt

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Finally got around to changing my exhaust. Have the old LT's off. Do you guys change hardware to bolts or just replace the m8x1.25 nuts? The ARH came with bolts but the old kooks had nuts.

I always use the longest studs I can fit that will leave the nut and 1 full thread past the nut. But that’s for turbo stuff so it’s easier on the threads in the head but gets the most clamping force. If the old nuts are in good shape then just reuse them, if rounded a bit then replace. They are not tq to yield so they are reusable. If it’s not a show car then every nut doesn’t have to be pretty and it’s hidden anyway


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

01yellercobra

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Finally got around to changing my exhaust. Have the old LT's off. Do you guys change hardware to bolts or just replace the m8x1.25 nuts? The ARH came with bolts but the old kooks had nuts.

I always use the longest studs I can fit that will leave the nut and 1 full thread past the nut. But that’s for turbo stuff so it’s easier on the threads in the head but gets the most clamping force. If the old nuts are in good shape then just reuse them, if rounded a bit then replace. They are not tq to yield so they are reusable. If it’s not a show car then every nut doesn’t have to be pretty and it’s hidden anyway


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Pretty much the same for me. I kept the stock studs/nuts with the Bassanis. I had to change one to a bolt because the curve of the tube wouldn't allow the stud.

I took it to a local cars and coffee yesterday with the wife. It wasn't a huge turn out, but it was fun. And I managed to get a log to check my boost level after the header install. It dropped about 1psi which is a good thing.
 

blownfox

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Thanks guys! My car came with kooks headers with the metal gasket but order new ford gaskets. Not sure if they are re-useable. I will re-use the stock hardware. Stubby wrenches saved my life on the top passenger nuts.

I need to order ball joints and will also order some extra header nuts.
 

01yellercobra

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Thanks guys! My car came with kooks headers with the metal gasket but order new ford gaskets. Not sure if they are re-useable. I will re-use the stock hardware. Stubby wrenches saved my life on the top passenger nuts.

I need to order ball joints and will also order some extra header nuts.
I used this one some of the top nuts. It worked awesome. I can get to the front 3 upper nuts on the driver side without having to move the engine with this.

 

JetmechF16

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I wish you well on the dyno. It will NOT blow up!
Simon Rex Good Luck GIF by Simon Rex / Dirt Nasty
Haha Bob it almost did! FRPS o-rings were cut and dumping fuel onto the block valley, heard the hissing of boiling e85 after a couple dyno runs.

We also had an issue with the belt jumping grooves on the blower pulley, car would hit 14 lbs then slip. Still made just under 700 at the wheels with only 14 lbs stopping around 6k rpm! I'll bring it back once the pulley issue is fixed, should be making over 20 lbs at 7k rpm.
 

CobraBob

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So you had a partially good day. LOL. 700whp at only 14 lbs. was good. That jump in boost to 20 lbs. will hopefully yield an impressive gain. Does the pulley have an alignment issue?
 

TK1299

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Tuning appointment at HRD is coming up on wednesday so I changed out the rear diff fluid, reinstalled the frps (new tuner uses it, previous didn't), and gave it a good final lookover. Will probably still blow up on the dyno, we'll see.
I took mine to HRD last week. I have to go back when my upgraded alternator comes in. He seems like a good guy.
 

JetmechF16

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So you had a partially good day. LOL. 700whp at only 14 lbs. was good. That jump in boost to 20 lbs. will hopefully yield an impressive gain. Does the pulley have an alignment issue?

Believe so, I pulled the blower, measured then removed the griptec pulley to compare against the old Procharger brand pulley. I think either the griptec hub wasn't fully seated to the blower or maybe the pulley was sitting on the hub slightly crooked. I cleaned all of the surfaces, reinstalled, then measured again and it now sits a tiny bit closer to the blower so that may have been the issue. I'm ordering a pulley laser alignment tool to make sure all is good before I setup another tuning appointment.

I took mine to HRD last week. I have to go back when my upgraded alternator comes in. He seems like a good guy.

Yeah wish I had found Chris years ago, he really knows the SN95 platform, seems to be a dying art haha.
 

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