put some break in miles on the new clutch
B0931457-3EC0-45CE-9D5E-52BA92BAAF74 by Jason Wrenn, on Flickr
What did you do for your Terminator today?
- Thread starter mrose75
- Start date
How did the vents fit? TrueForged is MIA and I just got an original hood
The hood required some filing. Everyones hood is different though. I did it by hand, took my time, and it took me about an hour total.
Same here I have LFP ones I think, got a good deal used on mine on eBay a year ago from some guy in Florida. I had to file mine by hand took about and hour give or take.
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I bought a set of stock springs to chop down to get rid of the 4x4 look. Now I just need to get a set of Caster/Camber Plates.
I also went out to meet with my painter and he did a new spray out comparison of OW. The first one that he tried to repaint my yellowed parts with was way to white. This spray looked spot on. I hope to get my parts painted and back on the car in a few weeks.
I also went out to meet with my painter and he did a new spray out comparison of OW. The first one that he tried to repaint my yellowed parts with was way to white. This spray looked spot on. I hope to get my parts painted and back on the car in a few weeks.
I don't want to drill my car. I was leaning towards hotchkis.
Why not? Even if it's a better solution?
Had hotchkis cc plates on one if my fox bodies. Nice quality. I will say though a couple little holes wont hurt it mike....
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I know it won't but I haven't drilled a hole yet in my car and I don't want to either. The same as I haven't stripped/spliced a wire in the factory harness. Its one of those slippery slopes that it just opens you up for more mods and butchery down the road.
I don't see why I need an extra hole in the strut tower when the factory got by with 3. I won't be road racing my car, just street driving it like the factory meant for the cars to be driven. It should be fine, also I wanted a CC plate that didn't have a bearing at the top. From reading reviews those are all add NVH which would make sense, the Hotchkis uses a poly bushing.
FWIW, I've ran MM plates on three different cars and didn't have any noticeable NVH increase. I do understand not wanting to drill though. I didn't really have a choice as I wanted to run coilovers.
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I am kind of in the same boat with "cj428mach" i never installed the MM cc plates due to the drilling, also i hated the way the adjustment thread/bolt sticks up so high. I do agree its a must need on lowered cars.
I wasn't aware that Hotchkis made a CC plate that did not require drilling? does the Steeda cc plates require drilling?
I wasn't aware that Hotchkis made a CC plate that did not require drilling? does the Steeda cc plates require drilling?
I believe the bbk plates don't require drilling. I didn't go with them because they don't come with strut boots and are blue.
Found an OEM hood and had my painter paint it. Color match turned out great! Now if True Forged would ever pick up the phone....
Ill look into them, thanks for the info.
Ordered the last bunch of Fragola fittings needed to complete my fuel system, also ordered a custom IPSCO t-stat housing with -12 AN ports and a bypass. Tomorrow I need to fit the blower belt on and measure for the crank pulley spacer. Also going to finish up the vacuum line routing too.
I finally got the car running again with the strange 9" rear and TSI TH400. That project took WAY longer than anticipated.
The last items on the list are nitrous tune, and figuring out if I can make any of the anti-roll bars work with over the axle exhaust.
The last items on the list are nitrous tune, and figuring out if I can make any of the anti-roll bars work with over the axle exhaust.
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