well, motor went boom. what are my options

virginiafiveo

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well, bad news folks. I wish it was just a sad joke. popped my motor this weekend. saturday was coming home on my rural road and decided to play a little, went deep into fourth on a new tank of gas, and all the sudden there was nothing but a cloud of smoke and oil everywhere, even under the spark plug holes. dropped the motor out yesterday, no clues yet as to what went wrong, passenger rear spark plug was mangled, no noise when it went, and the motor didn't lock up (about 1/2 a mile from home, limped it at 50...didn't sound normal. I'll know more this weekend when I tear the motor down.) still wiping my tears.

so I will give the symptoms,

car remained running aproximately another minute of highway speeds, died in front of shop as soon as it stopped. both spark plug valleys had oil in them. oil in the center and very back of the motor. long tubes had oil all over them as well as control arms. lost a significant amount of oil. when drained of fluids oil and radiator fluid did not appear to be compromised. the plum of smoke was huge and very dense. there was no noise associated with it besides missing (assuming the spark plug that was broken. it was not heavily beaten, the arc that is the lowest part was broken off. little pin on the spark plug was still intact.) I can take a pictures of everything this weekend.

what are the possible problems, and what are my options for upgrades/fixes while I'm in there. assume worst case scenario. would prefer to keep my whipple 2.3 gen 2 and my SLP long tubes. will likely go to a return style fuel system if motor has to be changed. would prefer aluminum block if possible as I would like to lose some weight in the process. looking to either maintain the approximate 700 rwhp or up to 1000. I'd like to get a good nitrous system in the car to run in conjunction with the 2.3.

if necessary I can supply a full list of current pertinent mods on the car.

also, I for sure want a car that I can take deep into 5th and 6th if desired pretty safely as I'd like to compete in texas mile next year.
 

mach1033

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Are you looking at 700hp on pump gas. E-85 or race gas? In order to make that kind of power with the 2.3 you will have to have ported heads and some custom cams made for your app. Another option would be to build a nice Boss 5.0 stroker for your car. Yet another one would be to sell your 2.3 which wont last long in the market and upgrade to either a KB 2.8 or the Whipple 2.9. As far high gear pulls you would need better rings and pistons that are coated along with the head cooling mod. Basically it all depends how much you want to spend. My motor blew up last year and I went with an eagle crank, stock rods, diamond pistons, ported heads, custom cams and ARP head and main stud kit.
 

virginiafiveo

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I would like 700 or a little more with 93 octane (E-10) <--curious how much of a different the 10% ethanol makes vs regular 93. is the boss 5.0 aluminum or iron block? will heads etc all fit the block without any modifications? I'm also going to go with a PSR tubular K-member probably. I want it done right plain and simple. I typically don't spare expense on this car without good reason. so I'll say my budget is up to 8-9k which I think is reasonable over what I might get out of parts to be sold in the market.
 

Ironhand

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You can get to 8-9K real easy. I would do the boss block or the 3.8 stroker. Studded, built, ported, and cammed.
 

virginiafiveo

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You can get to 8-9K real easy. I would do the boss block or the 3.8 stroker. Studded, built, ported, and cammed.

explain your 3.8 stroker. I'm assuming you didn't mean 3.8 I realize the 8-9k is pocket change on these motors. I'm saying not including any proceeds from sales of my current hardware and anything that is not damaged. I'd love to know how you do it sir. you have done some pretty slick stuff. :coolman:
 

mach1033

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I would like 700 or a little more with 93 octane (E-10) <--curious how much of a different the 10% ethanol makes vs regular 93. is the boss 5.0 aluminum or iron block? will heads etc all fit the block without any modifications? I'm also going to go with a PSR tubular K-member probably. I want it done right plain and simple. I typically don't spare expense on this car without good reason. so I'll say my budget is up to 8-9k which I think is reasonable over what I might get out of parts to be sold in the market.
Everything from the 4.6 will bolt up on the Boss block. As far as your budget like ironhand said you will reach 9k real quick. Def shop around. To be honest with a 9k budget I would stick with your stock block if it isnt damaged. Stick with the stock crank and rods if there not damaged and get better pistons. Custom cams, head porting and stud kit will run you close to 10k.
 

mach1033

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explain your 3.8 stroker. I'm assuming you didn't mean 3.8 I realize the 8-9k is pocket change on these motors. I'm saying not including any proceeds from sales of my current hardware and anything that is not damaged. I'd love to know how you do it sir. you have done some pretty slick stuff. :coolman:

Maybe he wants you to be the first Cobra owner to install a stroker V-TEC :lol1:
 

Ironhand

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I meant 3.8 stroker crank to add displacement. By the time you add the boss block and the stroker crank its already pretty expensive. I would do one or the other.
 

virginiafiveo

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out of curiousity, would it be easier to go with an MMR long block, either a 1000 or a 1500, and upgraded. like GT heads, or stage 3 port polish etc? aluminum, 5.0 or 5.3 stroker? SS valves, FR500 cams etc? let's say the 2.3 I have to keep and can only pulley more if needed? anyone have experience with MMR lb builds?
 

swordjr24

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Check you cam cover seals. I had the same problem (except no alot of oil lost but still some on exhaust & in spark plug holes & running out of coil covers) and one of the seals on that keeps the oil out of the spark plug holes had busted. Got new ones for $50 and problem fixed! She runs like brand new now!
 

virginiafiveo

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Check you cam cover seals. I had the same problem (except no alot of oil lost but still some on exhaust & in spark plug holes & running out of coil covers) and one of the seals on that keeps the oil out of the spark plug holes had busted. Got new ones for $50 and problem fixed! She runs like brand new now!

what would cause the spark plug damage though. (don't change them very often but I checked them before I went to the races and they were fine. :shrug:
 

swordjr24

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Hope this helps. Good luck!
 

earico

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Totally different approach is a new oem long block. Tousley sells the complete long block with the 2005 revised heads for around $4k. Just letting you know.
 

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