Well blown motor now what to do * Pics inside*

[F8L BYT]

So car always ran strong after the swap, but unfortunately tuning for the nitrous it looks like it went lean and the famous # 7 & 8 cylinders in the 2011 engine had enough. So I have been debating on the route I wanna go. The plan was to run nitrous this year and then get rid of it and turbo it this winter. But now I need the engine first.

So do I buy a 2016 short block and turbo it for a year or two and keep it ~700 while I build a good trans / cage / fuel system etc

or

Do I build the short block I have for 1200+. but going this route means no turbo or anything else this winter and running it NA next year and putting wear and tear on the engine and bearings.

I am leaning more towards the 2016 short block for now, but I have 2011 heads and I know 11/12 cars used different size (13mm I believe) head bolts compared to 13-16 cars have the 11mm ones???? So does that mean it won't work and I would need newer heads?

#7

#8

 

[SID297]

Nothing some JB Weld and a Scotch-Brite pad won't fix.

 

[AustinSN]

Damn that worked it.

How often do you run it? I don't see why a season on a built short block would have a noticeable impact on lower end wear.

If it was me I would build it now.

 

[n20_stang]

LS swap it... J/K, LMAO!!

 

[F8L BYT]

Nothing some JB Weld and a Scotch-Brite pad won't fix.

Haha wouldn't that be nice! Maybe some JB Weld and some duct tape and it will be good to go ha

Damn that worked it.

How often do you run it? I don't see why a season on a built short block would have a noticeable impact on lower end wear.

If it was me I would build it now.

I usually drive it every weekend it's nice during the summer at least for a little bit, but it also will see a lot of track time

 

[F8L BYT]

Just spoke to a few different companies and they said the head bolt issue won't be a problem using a new block since the dowels line everything up

 

[heart_attack]

I would build it now. I can't see how driving it around with no power adder would be a issue.

 

[cjd223]

You will need this - M6067M50. Available from LMR.

 

[Holovacko]

How much nitrous were you trying to run?

 

[F8L BYT]

You will need this - M6067M50. Available from LMR.

Is that the same one as the boss kit? Have you done a 15+ short block swap?

How much nitrous were you trying to run?

Believe it or not, it was 150 shot. Engine only had 24k miles on it too

 

[Gpcalero]

Easiest thing to do would be to buy an Aluminator.

Or if you want a solid build, hit Tim at MPR.

 

[cjd223]

Yes, look under "Power Adders".

Is that the same one as the boss kit? Have you done a 15+ short block swap?



Believe it or not, it was 150 shot. Engine only had 24k miles on it too

 

[J_verrett5oh]

if your willing to let the heads and cams go cheap I may be interested

 

[stangn]

It will be cheaper to build your own short block than buying an aluminator short block. New block is 1000 rods 700 pistons and rings 1000 and 2-300 for bearings and head gaskets OPG 300.
If you have to pay to have one built that's very different.

 

[R.D.P.]

Sorry to hear it blew on you. I would say it depends on how big you want to go someday. If not over 800, get a 15+ short block. If you want to have a 1000+whp car down the road, put every penny you have into a monster short block from a top shelf builder.

 

[assasinator]

IMO rebuild it with boss rods/pistons,b balance of course. Pocket port the heads. Cam it. Be done.