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Valve Cover Removal

Discussion in 'How-To' started by Red Poison, Mar 7, 2010.

  1. Red Poison

    Red Poison Over it Established Member

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    This write up is for removing the driver side valve cover. This posed to be the hardest part of the whole project for me, so I decided to write this so you don’t have to go through all the frustration I went through trying to get it off. There is another good write up (http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/613611-how-valve-cover-install.html) that covers the passenger side and driver side, which I used part of to get mine off. I found it difficult to follow because there wasn’t any detailed pictures or any direction to parts that some may not know how to identify.

    TOOLS:
    -Needle nose Pliers (or regular if thats all you have)
    -1/4" socket elbow and socket wrench
    -2 4" 1/4 socket extensions
    -14 socket & 14mm deep socket
    -13, 14, & 15mm wrenches (15 not totally necessary)
    -Magnetic Antenna Thingy (just in case you drop a bolt and cant reach it... I used it once - not totally necessary)


    IMG_3248.jpg

    1. Reference this write up to guide you through removing your intake, throttle body and plenum.

    http://svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/266805-how-blower-removal.html - you only need up til step 5

    2. Remove the spark plug/coil pack cover by taking out the 2 bolts that hold it in.
    1step.jpg

    3. Unplug the harness from each of the coil packs. Move the harness out of the way.
    IMG_3151.jpg

    4. Pull out all the coil packs and place them aside.
    IMG_3152.jpg

    5. Remove the bolts that hold the Valve cover to the head of the engine. It is held in by 8 bolts (clearly visible) and 2 in the front of the valve cover. The upper bolt is covered by a plastic connection that holds a wire harness. Pull the wire harness to expose the bolt.
    IMG_3152.jpg
    6. Use a flat head screw driver to pry the valve cover off the engine. Its being held down with RTV.

    7. I found that there was a wire in my way that was holding down the valve cover, so I reached around and unplugged it. This allowed me an easier time getting it off. You may be able to just move it aside. I unplugged it. (get pic)
    DONE WITH THE PASSENGER SIDE.

    Now for the hard part…
    1. Repeat steps 2 -5.
    IMG_3153.jpg

    IMG_3154.jpg

    2. Remove the bolts that hold the power steering fluid reservoir in place. This will allow for more room to work the valve cover off.
    NOTE: Pics were taken after I finished... so the bolts are already removed. Also, I removed a pulley so that I wouldn't scratch it while trying to take off the bolt.
    psp.jpg

    psp1.jpg


    Now for some background information…
    The silver cylinder with the plastic reservoir on top is the "Master Cylinder".
    mastercylinder.jpg

    The black part that its connected to is the Brake booster.
    brakebooster.jpg
    The brake booster goes from the back of the Master Cylinder all the way to the firewall. You will NOT be disassembling it.

    For the life of my, I could not figure out how to unplug the connector that goes into the side of the Master cylinder reservoir, so I left it plugged it. It made it a tad more difficult because it took up valuable space where moving the valve cover, but I managed. I’m sure I put an extra strain on it by pushing and pulling up against it. If anyone knows how to unplug it, please feel free to tell me and I will add it to this write up. Reference the above pic of the master cylinder for a clear view of the top, but here are some pics of the bottom. (I had to wait til I got the valve cover off before I snapped these pics.)
    damnclip.jpg

    damnclip2.jpg

    1. Remove the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to the Brake booster.
    mcbolt1.jpg

    mcbolt2.jpg

    I found this to be the easiest with a 14mm wrench. It was a pain, and the turns were slow, but you’ll get it off. After it was loose, I used a 15mm because it was easier to go on and had enough teeth to turn it.
    wrenchview.jpg

    2. At the firewall/back of the Brake booster, you’ll see a square plate. Remove the bottom left bolt. I used 2 4in extensions and a 14mm deep socket. Removing this now will eliminate having to get in and out of the car.
    (get pic)

    3. Go inside the car and get down by the pedals. You will now be removing the 3 remaining bolts that hold the Brake booster to the firewall. 2 of them are not that bad at reaching, but the 3rd requires removal of other things first, so that’s what we’ll do – move the other stuff to expose the 3rd bolt.

    4. At this point, I have no idea what these things are called, so I’ve provided pictures pointing to the things that I am telling you to remove. We will primarily be working from the Brake Pedal.

    5. Unsnap the long plastic piece from what its attached to, just by pushing it back.
    longplastic.jpg

    6. Disconnect this connector from this square thing.
    anotherbox.jpg

    7. Use some needle nose pliers or whatever you have (pliers) to remove this coddar pin.
    cpanotherview.jpg

    codarpin.jpg

    8. Remove the white washer that sit around the thing you pulled the coddar pin out of.
    whitewasher.jpg

    9. Now this thing:
    Still on the car:

    Off the car:
    IMG_3254.jpg
    IMG_3252.jpg
    IMG_3251.jpg
    IMG_3250.jpg
    IMG_3246.jpg
    IMG_3245.jpg
    It is hung around the metal rod but the rod also goes through it. (you can see its design -what I'm trying to describe to you from the pictures above). You have to grab the rod that’s coming out of the firewall that attaches to the brake pedal and slide it to the right (towards the gas pedal.) This will allow for the circle part to get out from around the metal rod. Now you should be able to unhook it from the metal rod. Set it aside.

    10. If you use your finger or something to move the black wire out of the way, you should be able to see the 3rd bolt (Top left bolt).
    3rdbolt.jpg
    I’m not going to sit here and tell you it was easy getting it out. I stretched my socket up there and got a hold of it and backed it out. I used 2 extensions, deep socket and a flexible neck. Here’s my setup.
    setup.jpg

    11. Now that’s done, back to getting the Brake booster loose. Back to the brake pedal…
    12. There still shouldn’t be any play between the metal rod and the rod that comes out of the firewall. That’s because there is a black plastic sleeve that is also in there. If you push the rod that comes out of the firewall back to its original place, the sleeve should separate. Here’s a picture of it:

    Pushed in (original position)
    blacksleeve.jpg

    After pulling the rod or shaft towards the gas pedal and pushing it back to its original position:
    bs2.jpg

    13. After the sleeve is removed, you should be able remove the rod. BUT NOT YET! Push down on the brake pedal so the brake pedal will push the rod leading into the Brake booster in (toward the engine bay).
    14. If you get out of the car and look under your hood, you should see the square plate separate from the firewall. I went back inside the car and took the rod off the brake pedal and sat it behind the little silver rod (with the hole that the coder pin came out of) and pushed on the brake pedal again. I wanted to make sure it was as far out as it can go.

    15. Return to the engine bay and move the Brake booster to the right as much as it can go. I had a whole helluva lot of trouble because I was going at it blind… Its not gonna move that far out the way. It will however give you enough space to pull the valve cover off. (The valve cover isn’t going to clear it without touching it -at least it didn’t for me-, but as I pulled the valve cover towards it, it gave just enough for me to get by it. But we’re not there yet.(get pic) We need to first undo this cirlce thing:
    1236.jpg

    16. Go back into the car and undo the cable for the clutch. It is attached to the quadrant. Here’s a pic.
    ccable1.jpg
    The arriow is pointing to the end of the cable and the circle is showing where it was originally. You're arrow should be in the circle. (my pics were after I got it loose.)

    I pulled the small part away from the big wheel and pushed the big wheel up so it would allow enough play in the cable to unhook it from the front of the quadrant. Its sort of like undoing the throttle cable from the throttle body. (IF anyone has a better way of explaining this, please feel free to pm me and I will add it here.)


    17. After the cable is unhooked, go into the engine bay and pull the circle out from around the hooks, and pull the cable. This will allow you to move the circle part away from the firewall. Don’t pull it too hard… the cable should not come through the firewall. You just want the circle out of the way so you can lift the valve cover.
    cableout.jpg

    18. After that, you just have to work the valve cover off. I’m not sure if the way mine came off is the right way or the best way, but it’s the way that worked for me.


    :thumbsup:

    I hope this helped give someone insight into get things out of the way.

    Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2010
  2. svt99rag

    svt99rag Indy Blue Oval Established Member

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    I will be doing this tomorrow
     
  3. Red Poison

    Red Poison Over it Established Member

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    I hope it helps... Let me know if you have any questions. I still have to go outside and snap a couple more pics, but whats there should definitely get you through the project.
     
  4. svt99rag

    svt99rag Indy Blue Oval Established Member

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    What a pain in the ass! I will be taking a little more out before I reinstall so I don't scratch them up.
     
  5. 5spd07gt

    5spd07gt BaggedCobra Established Member

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    i may do this next winter. seems like alot of work but it will be well worth it.
     
  6. 10thSVT_03

    10thSVT_03 Doin it! Established Member

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    Was told if you took the motor mount off on the drivers side it will lower the engine enough to pull the cover off.. Have not tried yet but thats what I was told...
     
  7. ssp.vortech

    ssp.vortech New Member Established Member

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    Wow, definitely looks like a pain in the ass. Thanks for posting this!
     
  8. CO_SVT

    CO_SVT New Member Established Member

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    I was able to get the clip off of the side of the master cylinder by taking a stubby flathead screwdriver and pushing on the release that is on the bottom side of the plug. Hope that helps.
     
  9. MIKESTANG_SVT

    MIKESTANG_SVT Active Member Established Member

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    Nice write up.


    I used some painter's tape and taped my covers up with a couple layers for protection. Just use long pieces so they are easy to remove.
     
    jordan20523 likes this.
  10. svt99rag

    svt99rag Indy Blue Oval Established Member

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    I had help to hold stuff out of the way when I pulled them off but was on my own with installing them back. They went on a lot faster than off.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2010
  11. 03sixbanger

    03sixbanger Derrick Established Member

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    Nice write-up. Subscribing so I can find it when its time for me to do it. If anyone has any info on getting the KB inlet off that would be nice.
     
  12. brian97cobra

    brian97cobra The Infractionator Established Member

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    wow this are a pitta....

    im elbo deep in grease trying to get mine off.....


    however your post has great pics and inspired me to do this :)


    ok got them off. hell i think the drivers side was easier to get off once the hydroboost is out of the way. the passenger side gave me real hell. but they are off, thank god. now off to the powder coater tomorrow along with my heat exchanger brackets also.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2010
  13. Spoolx

    Spoolx Active Member Established Member

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    Cool write up, would it be easier to just drop the k-member?
     
  14. brian97cobra

    brian97cobra The Infractionator Established Member

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    no i would not recommend removing the engine to do this job.

    once you do the job a time or 2 its not so bad. but the finished product is very nice.
     
  15. TMSVT

    TMSVT Active Member Established Member

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    I just did this today.I got my butt kicked but I finally got it.Thanks for the write up .It really came in handy.Thanks
     
  16. 04terminator04

    04terminator04 New Member Established Member

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    I just finished pulling the valve covers....it was a pain in the ass at first but its reallt not that bad...just a quick question for everyone who has done it...did you get them powder coated or painted with high temp?
     
  17. brian97cobra

    brian97cobra The Infractionator Established Member

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    Powder coat it. You will be glad when u see them done. It's also cheap. I paid $40 for mine to get powder coated
     
  18. svt99rag

    svt99rag Indy Blue Oval Established Member

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    Powder coat them, they have pretty much any color.

    26041_385729397326_504007326_447130.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2010
  19. efnfast

    efnfast Member Established Member

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    fyi, this thingie

    IMG_3245.jpg

    is the brake light switch.
     
  20. cbr repsol

    cbr repsol Well-Known Member Established Member

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    ^^ thats funny ford hasnt changed that design in over 30 year to my knowledge. My 69 mercury cougar had one that looked identical to the one shown .
     

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