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Discussion in 'How-To' started by Red Poison, Mar 7, 2010.
Jordan, thanks for the note...anyone else?
This is a great write-up. THANK YOU! But since I just did this (only needed to pull the passenger side valve cover for a leak), I want to add a couple points I had to do that I did not directly see in your write up.
1 - Had to pull the fuel rail. Since you already had the SC pulled, you had the fuel rails pulled, but I did not pick up on that point. So you might just call that out as a step.
2 - I had to pull one of the back heater core lines (quick connect). I drained the radiator before and it skipped all the mess. The quick connect turned out to actually be "a quick connect" and was easy to remove once you pinch the 2 white tabs on the sides and pull back.
3 - Some have thought (and even Ford told me in a BS price quote for valve cover leak repair) the A/C line would need to be disconnected. This is simply not true. But the larger pad that goes around one of the A/C lines does make pulling it off a bit of a hassle. But not required at all.
I did the passenger cover on mine and left the fuel rail and heater core line in place. It was a while ago but it was a pain getting the cover out and back in. Lots of wiggling, cursing and breaks but it eventually slipped right back in
Is there a way to see the pictures? I can't see them :/
Probably not, unless you can log into OP's albums. Photobucket went full ass and demands money now for third party hosting.
Great write-up, thanks. Just pulled my passenger-side cover and had to remove the heater core line where it goes into the firewall. I already had the fuel rail clear.
Now, the Ford manual says to remove the fuel rail, but I haven't been able to safely do that because there are two cables that go through it at the back of the manifold. They don't have much slack, and the fuel rail has brackets and the pressure regulator attached and it won't fit through these looped cables. Anyone know what these are? Actuator cables for the IMRC?
Judging from your intake manifold, it looks like a B headed intake (1996-1998). If so, those will be IMRC cables. 1999+ do not have those.
Thanks for the write up, I started removing the driver side yesterday and got frustrated. I didn't want to have to remove anything else, but that's not gonna happen.
I want to have mine down but I don’t trust myself so, who is close by me and wants to make some money taking mine off? I’m in Amarillo Texas.
Thought I’d help someone out. For the life of me I couldn’t get the driver side out. The motor mount way was useless to me it didn’t give me enough room. What actually got the valve cover off was this bolt circled in the picture from the wheel well. I’d recommend doing everything stated in the original post to remove the master cylinder and brake booster. But also remove the bolt from the wheel well for the brake lines. This loosens up the master cylinder and it can literally be moved about a foot or more out of the way and lets you swing out the booster without any issue. Once I got the bolt off everything came off easy. Just a heads up.