Upgrade radiator - worth it? proven? debate...

Matt-'00GT

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I've searched and read over nearly every thread I could find related to the '03/'04 Cobra and upgrading the radiator. I really can't find anything solid that says the LFP or the Fluidyne radiator is an automatic "cooling" mod that should always be done. I've already got the LFP H/E on the car and plan to do the LDC head cooling mod once I swap the clutch.

My car is not a daily driver and I do plan to open track it a few times this year. I'm currently adding a Stage IV port and 2.76 pulley (no lower). I've done all the other supporting mods such as 60lb injectors, SCT 2400 MAF, BAP, etc.. So I'm not looking to pinch pennies. I just want to make sure I am spending the money on the most proven part/upgrade possible for cooling. I have heard some about the evans system but right now I'm only looking for information on the radiator upgrade. Is an upgraded water pump done at the same time? What about the T-Stat?

Thanks for all the help.
 

WDW MKR

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Do a search over on ModularFords. We have discussed this stuff to death. I feel that all of the cooling mods (HE and reservoir do nothing to lower coolant temps) are cheap insurance for anything above stock power levels.
 

ArcaneParadise

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Ok. To be honest, I am sort of a newb on this, but I noticed a big difference in the temp of the engine bay with a Fluidyne radiator. Before I could not even touch the "Hood Prop" after driving since it would be so hot. Now I have no problem and I know for a fact that the engine bay is cooler with the new radiator. I also took off the hood blanket so I bet that helped too. But anyway, I am not sure if a cooler engine bay translates into a cooler engine but I think it helped the car one way or another. To what extent I do not know.

Also, to post number three, when u say cooling mods, are u referring to all the Evan's cooling mod stuff?
 

evans03c

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When I researched it I came to the conclusion that piecemealing it would achieve very little. It's something that's best to go all in or not at all. For my driving I really didn't need to do it but I just wanted some insurance against piston failure due to lack of cooling when I go to higher power levels. I could also afford to do it so I did.

Evans system + Fluidyne radiator with oil cooler built in, no water pump
$1900

LDC head mod $160

Not a cheap mod. Look at it like an insurance policy. It may be totally wasted if you never use it or it may be cheap when you consider the cost of a new motor. If I was younger and money was tight probably no way I'd do this.
 

MTI LS1

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I have heard from most guys that unless you are going to open track, it is really not going to make that big of a difference in temps.
 

sedanman

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I have open tracked mine on a 100^ day before and the car did not over heat on the third run session (30 min each) the car felt heat soaked and lost some power (I had a H/e and everything in my sig). If you plan to road race I would reccommend:

A. hopefully you have a interchangeable pulley hub, pulley your car with like a 2.93 to keep heat soak from happening, the first few times out you will not need the extra power anyways.

B. Look into upgrading the brakes, I had the stock brakes with performance friction PDZ pads up front and at the end of the second run group the brakes started to warp on the third they got pretty bad.

That being said I got hooked on road racing and have since added the 00R brakes (brembos) so I don't have to worry about the brakes :)
 

Matt-'00GT

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evans03c said:
When I researched it I came to the conclusion that piecemealing it would achieve very little. It's something that's best to go all in or not at all. For my driving I really didn't need to do it but I just wanted some insurance against piston failure due to lack of cooling when I go to higher power levels. I could also afford to do it so I did.

Evans system + Fluidyne radiator with oil cooler built in, no water pump
$1900

LDC head mod $160

Not a cheap mod. Look at it like an insurance policy. It may be totally wasted if you never use it or it may be cheap when you consider the cost of a new motor. If I was younger and money was tight probably no way I'd do this.

That seems to be the same conclusion that I am coming to as well. "Go big or go home"

I just haven't found evidence that has shown how a new radiator w/ a t-stat and H/E will significantly lower temps. I want to buy the best possible setup, not just a new radiator because its available.
 

racebronco2

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i open track my cobra .... before the radiator, remote thermostat and h/e i would go into limp mode in 80 degree weather ..... now i don't have a problem in 100 degree weather .... they will not lower the temp very much in everyday driving but the temps will go down quicker ... where your car will run cooler is at the track ..... open track that is ....
 

ShelbyGuy

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where do you get $1900 for the evans mods? did you at least get a reach-around with that?







seperating the oil cooler from the engine cooling subsystem did the most to keep temps under control. then i realized that while my engine wasnt 300 degrees anymore, my oil still was so i put a larger oil cooler on the car. i have not been to the road course with the bigger oil cooler.
 

Matt-'00GT

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ShelbyGuy said:
where do you get $1900 for the evans mods? did you at least get a reach-around with that?

seperating the oil cooler from the engine cooling subsystem did the most to keep temps under control. then i realized that while my engine wasnt 300 degrees anymore, my oil still was so i put a larger oil cooler on the car. i have not been to the road course with the bigger oil cooler.

What do you recommend I run for a cooling setup? I've seen your posts and you seem to open track quite a bit. Looking forward to your advice.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed!
 

evans03c

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ShelbyGuy said:
where do you get $1900 for the evans mods? did you at least get a reach-around with that?

Being a little lazy with my numbers. Evans quotes $1900 including the Fluidyne radiator + oil cooler built in. That alone they sell for over $900. Of course this mod can be done for a lot less by going with a different radiator and say an Earl's remote oil setup.
 

WDW MKR

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Matt-'00GT said:
What do you recommend I run for a cooling setup? I've seen your posts and you seem to open track quite a bit. Looking forward to your advice.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed!

Seriously, do a search on ModularFords. Shelby did not mean that the Evans stuff is overpriced. He meant that the listed price was much higher than what it actually costs.

www.modularfords.com (tons of info and pictures from those of us who have installed this stuff)
www.evanscooling.com (all of the parts and prices for Evans)
www.summitracing.com (all of the miscellaneous fittings, hoses, cooler, etc. that you will need)
 

WDW MKR

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racebronco2 said:
i open track my cobra .... before the radiator, remote thermostat and h/e i would go into limp mode in 80 degree weather ..... now i don't have a problem in 100 degree weather .... they will not lower the temp very much in everyday driving but the temps will go down quicker ... where your car will run cooler is at the track ..... open track that is ....

There's hard data justification, right there. Great info!
 

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