Two-step ?

D-MANN

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I bought a n2mb wot box and will be installing it soon. What are the negatives to using a two step on a stock engine?Has anyone damaged their engine using one?any install tips i should know? Thanks


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bullitt2735

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I bought a n2mb wot box and will be installing it soon. What are the negatives to using a two step on a stock engine?Has anyone damaged their engine using one?any install tips i should know? Thanks

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I just did the install earlier this week. Works great so far. Pretty simple install I think it was 6 wires total. Take out both the passenger and drivers seat, it will make your back not hate you as much. I mounted mine in the glove box. The only tricky part was routing the wires through the firewall.
 

whitedevil95

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Ive used mine for a year or two now at the track. I dont sit on the limiter long just before the 2nd amber hits is when i floor it before i launch.
 

apex svt

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There's a thread on here that shows which wires to use on the 133 plug. (Pretty sure that's what it is) it's the big one on the fire wall on the passenger side of the motor bay. It's super easy to tap into there. I did it in about an hour and went into it blind.
 

96redcobra

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Gamer2Cars

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I have been looking at the N2MB vs. the MSD Launch Master 2 Step Rev Limiter. Is the WOT shifting the "big thing" on the N2MB? Why else would I want one over the other. I like with the MSD it's plug and play in regards to simply switching the harness.
 

ctgreddy

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the msd is more money and looks like a clustered mess in the engine bay with all the plugs and nonsense. For how easy the n2mb is to hook up it'd be crazy to do anything other than the n2mb.

OP, dont sit on the 2step for long and you'll be fine. I've had it for 4 years now. couple seconds on it here or there and every pass at the track. Like said above I dont get on the 2step until the ambers start falling so I'm never on it more than 2-3 seconds. I'd say anything over 5 seconds is too long.

For wiring you can do whatever you want. But I'd HIGHLY suggest solder/heat shrink on the two wires that go into the thick harness on the engine bay, or a quality connector like wetherpacks. if you use cheap options and it fails your car is dead in the water as that interrupts the coil power. On my car I used weatherpack connectors for those so I could take the n2mb out of the question incase for some reason it ever failed on me. They're water tight and I soldered on the connections so I've never had a problem.
 

D-MANN

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the msd is more money and looks like a clustered mess in the engine bay with all the plugs and nonsense. For how easy the n2mb is to hook up it'd be crazy to do anything other than the n2mb.

OP, dont sit on the 2step for long and you'll be fine. I've had it for 4 years now. couple seconds on it here or there and every pass at the track. Like said above I dont get on the 2step until the ambers start falling so I'm never on it more than 2-3 seconds. I'd say anything over 5 seconds is too long.

For wiring you can do whatever you want. But I'd HIGHLY suggest solder/heat shrink on the two wires that go into the thick harness on the engine bay, or a quality connector like wetherpacks. if you use cheap options and it fails your car is dead in the water as that interrupts the coil power. On my car I used weatherpack connectors for those so I could take the n2mb out of the question incase for some reason it ever failed on me. They're water tight and I soldered on the connections so I've never had a problem.

Perfect this is great info. I will get some weatherpack connectors and follow your advice on the two step at the strip. Do you use the no lift shift?


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ctgreddy

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Perfect this is great info. I will get some weatherpack connectors and follow your advice on the two step at the strip. Do you use the no lift shift?


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I use it sometimes. Since I switched to e85 I've left my tune a little rich, so when I wot shift now it backfires every time. The past few times it's been big enough that it blows the vacuum line off my regulator which causes the car to go lean. This winter I'm switching to push lock air fittings and will dial in my tune better so back to the wot shifting.

I will say this, it's very hard(for me anyways) to train yourself to not lift off the gas when you shift. Half the time i used to do it I found myself only doing it on the 3-4 because i wouldn't remember on the others.
 

roy_1031

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the msd is more money and looks like a clustered mess in the engine bay with all the plugs and nonsense. For how easy the n2mb is to hook up it'd be crazy to do anything other than the n2mb.

OP, dont sit on the 2step for long and you'll be fine. I've had it for 4 years now. couple seconds on it here or there and every pass at the track. Like said above I dont get on the 2step until the ambers start falling so I'm never on it more than 2-3 seconds. I'd say anything over 5 seconds is too long.

For wiring you can do whatever you want. But I'd HIGHLY suggest solder/heat shrink on the two wires that go into the thick harness on the engine bay, or a quality connector like wetherpacks. if you use cheap options and it fails your car is dead in the water as that interrupts the coil power. On my car I used weatherpack connectors for those so I could take the n2mb out of the question incase for some reason it ever failed on me. They're water tight and I soldered on the connections so I've never had a problem.

What happens if you sit on the 2 step for too long?
 

MalcolmV8

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What happens if you sit on the 2 step for too long?

I've taken apart multiple terminator engines and found some came stock from the factory with plastic body primary chain tensioners that use spring tension and oil pressure to tension the chain.
Others came stock from the factory with the earlier style cast iron tensioners that have a ratchet mechanism to hold tension on the chains when oil pressure goes away.

Assuming you have the metal tensioners and you're bouncing on the 2 step the chains are slapping away rather violently which will allow the tensioner to expand beyond its normal distance. The ratchet mechanism will extend to far and forever on hold excessive pressure. In a short amount of time there after the chain guides will destroy themselves from so much pressure and tension and you'll be pulling the motor.

Assuming you have the plastic body style with no ratchet you're still at risk of potentially breaking a chain guide sitting there bouncing off it as the guides and chains slap around violently.

The metal primary chain tensioners are the preferred item if you have your motor apart and this is why guys grind off the bottom four teeth of the ratchet. This will prevent it from locking out in the fully extended position when 2 stepping.

If you're going to use a 2 step do like the guys above say and use it very quickly and go. Don't sit on it or hold it.
 

ITSTOCK

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I have the n2mb, the positives are that the 2 step function allows for repeatable launches and great 60's.

The negatives are that it is hard on parts. All 2 steps are. As long as you don't stay on it long it should be a problem with the engine, but you are still going to beat up on driveline parts.

As ctr said regarding the no lift shift function, it is really hard to train yourself to not lift if you never have before. I have a good 20 passss with the no lift and have yet to do a no lift shift. Maybe this season!

Take note on the video of how short I am on the 2 step. It also backfires worse if you lift when the no lift is activated.
 

ctgreddy

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This is usually how long I'm on it. 2step is at 4k and that's my normal slow shifts, not no lift. Also another good thing about the n2mb is it's a really good nitrous controller if you ever use it in the future. for 60 bucks for an add on plug, and you have a wot switch, rpm window switch, and the n2mb will cut the spray when you push in the clutch(no lift shifts).

 

Senkak

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I run the N2MB WOT Box with nitrous windows switch add on.
Had it for many years. Works very well.
2 step video from 5 years ago.
 
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