Tuner

[Fastback]

So with my new Cobra, a 2003, I have some mods lined up, but I have a question for you guys. I'm new to modding a fuel injected cars, I had a 1998 Cobra that was stock so I dont know how to mod these cars.

My car already has a MAC SS Catback, MGW Shifter, and K&N FIPK, FR500s and BFG KDW's. I want to increase my list to include a new supercharger pulley, BF Idlers, Gatorback belt, LFP Heat Exchanger, Expansion Resevior for the intercooler, and radiator expansion tank, BF Independent Brace, and boost overlay, Tint, H&R race springs, and finally a custom tune.

This in lies my problem, a tune is done with a hand held tuner correct? so on LFP's website you can by a SCT tuner. So if I purchased that tuner I would take that hand held programmer to the dyno and tuner and he would tune it? It that correct? I hope to run 460 rwhp and same torque, with the 2.93 BF Pulley. any imput, help, or just posts will be very cool. :read:

Mike

 

[forcefedcobra]

contact Rick and Linn at ATS for a programmer already loaded with some good tunes. Or contact any other tuner on here for the same.

Unless you have a really good tuner in your area.

 

[Fastback]

So you have tunes that are already loaded and you download into your car? you dont need to take it to the dyno to check A/F or anything? I was going to take it to Blood Enterprises in Auburn. I was under the impression that you take your car there and they tune it like you would a carburated car, but with the tuner for the Cobra.

 

[Cold Brew]

I also wondered how this all worked too. Can you just go to the tuner and get your car flashed with their tools and not have to buy the programmers?

 

[sambandit]

If you buy a handheld from a tuner, you will get a custom tune/tunes already loaded in. I am a dealer for every part you are looking for, so let me know if you want a price on everything including a custom tune!

You still need to check your tune on a dyno no matter who you get it from though...

 

[sambandit]

Dp

 

[CobraBob]

Mike, you'll be happy with power you'll make with the 2.93 pulley, but you won't likely make 460rwhp. More likely in the 445-455rwhp range with those mods. I noticed you seem to be still using the stock H-pipe and the restrictive stock cats. You'll lose a bit there, too. With a very similar setup as yours except I had a Magnaflow catted X-pipe, I made 448rwhp on a hot, summer day and 457rwhp on a cool October day. I had a spot-on tune, too. Your tune will either be your friend or your foe. LOL! Best of luck with your quest for more power. No doubt you'll be soon enough moving on up to the '500' mark.

 

[forcefedcobra]

ALWAYS have your A/F checked after a new tune either at a dyno shop or with a wideband.

 

[TheFleshRocket]

I also wondered how this all worked too. Can you just go to the tuner and get your car flashed with their tools and not have to buy the programmers?

That would make sense, considering that the programmer is pretty much a paperweight once you've got your settings where you want them. But the greedy manufacturers of the handhelds don't want logic getting in the way of their profits.

 

[AmazonTuning]

This in lies my problem, a tune is done with a hand held tuner correct? so on LFP's website you can by a SCT tuner. So if I purchased that tuner I would take that hand held programmer to the dyno and tuner and he would tune it? It that correct? I hope to run 460 rwhp and same torque, with the 2.93 BF Pulley. any imput, help, or just posts will be very cool. :read:

Mike

when a programmer is purchased from us for $399 shipped we include a free custom program..the programmer has limited tweaking capabilites.. when you take the car to the dyno to check the AF and to make sure the program is functioning properly if it needs tweaked beyond the capabilities of the programmer we will work with you by sending a revised program via email until any issues are resolved..

we will also revise at no additional charge for any mods you add for as long as you own the vehicle..

here is a link to our tuning policy and Ricks backround and qualifications

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173406

 

[Fastback]

I was thinking, and would a 2.76 be too much for the non ported eaton?
should I stay with buying a 2.93? I've seen some people on here with just a aftermarket mid, intake, catback, 2.76, and tune run 460rwhp and nearly 495rwtq. thats where I want to be. My original pulley choice was a 2.76 but after reading some stories saying that it might be too much without a ported blower what do you think.

Mike

 

[Kevin the Clean 1]

contact Rick and Linn at ATS for a programmer already loaded with some good tunes.

Rick Erdman @ ATS (Amazon Tuning Solutions) in the best tuner there is... :bowdown:

 

[AmazonTuning]

I was thinking, and would a 2.76 be too much for the non ported eaton?
should I stay with buying a 2.93? I've seen some people on here with just a aftermarket mid, intake, catback, 2.76, and tune run 460rwhp and nearly 495rwtq. thats where I want to be. My original pulley choice was a 2.76 but after reading some stories saying that it might be too much without a ported blower what do you think.

Mike

it depends what your goal for the car is going to be..most peopla start out with an upper blower pulley because it is a good bang for your buck mod..and you will see nice results with it..you can get a RR ultragrip pulley for $135 ..anytime you go with a smaller than 320 you will need to have a revised program..Rick has customers with just an upper running in the mid 11s

what is truly impressive is the upper and lower combo because it is a ratio of the two that generates your boost #s..also if you can stay large on the upper and large on the crank pulley you will have less chance of belt slip...the larger crank pulley you use the sooner in the rpm band your torque will come on and stay longer..we have tons of data to support this.

so if your future plans include a crank pulley I advise going a bit bigger with the blower pulley for now and then you can use a larger crank pulley when you want to step it up..

if you never plan on a crank pulley then a 276 is a good choice...but many people feel that the 293 is the sweet spot for the stock Eaton where it is most efficient giving max power without overheating..

if you have any other questions feel free to call me or PM

 

[04silversnake]

I was thinking, and would a 2.76 be too much for the non ported eaton?
should I stay with buying a 2.93? I've seen some people on here with just a aftermarket mid, intake, catback, 2.76, and tune run 460rwhp and nearly 495rwtq. thats where I want to be. My original pulley choice was a 2.76 but after reading some stories saying that it might be too much without a ported blower what do you think.

Mike

I dont think 2.76 is too much, in fact I like it better than the 2.93. I had both dynoed the same day. First pull with the 2.93, and second pull with the 2.76. I cant remember the exact numbers on the 2.93. But from the top of my head, HP were higher by a little, mabye 10 HP, now the torque was 30 ft-lbs. I can tell you that SOP, it does feel that it pulls stronger with the 2.76.
My car dynoed with the 2.76 460 hp and 480 rwhp on a dynojet.

 

[AmazonTuning]

I dont think 2.76 is too much, in fact I like it better than the 2.93. I had both dynoed the same day. First pull with the 2.93, and second pull with the 2.76. I cant remember the exact numbers on the 2.93. But from the top of my head, HP were higher by a little, mabye 10 HP, now the torque was 30 ft-lbs. I can tell you that SOP, it does feel that it pulls stronger with the 2.76.
My car dynoed with the 2.76 460 hp and 480 rwhp on a dynojet.

you are going to get different results from one car to another...it is the nature of these cars..you can do the exact same thing to similar cars and have different results..we have seen up to 20hp difference...just between cars that are stock..each car will respond differently

if you go with a larger blower pulley to start then you will not have to change it if you want to add a crank pulley later and you can add a larger crank pulley. If you are never going to add a crank pulley then either the 276 or 280 or 293 is going to be a good choice and you will have a huge smile that will last for a while...

 

[03yellow]

Not true...
The programer can be used to datalog, check trouble codes,clear codes, realtime data.....

Also, My programer was sold with lifetime free tunes.
I have added a lower pulley(no charge for the new tune) later I ported the blower(no charge for the new tune). This year BAP/MAF extender (no charge for the new tune).All the tunes were sent e-mail within 1hour.

Also,Also,I like to change the shift light rpms and remove the traction control during the summer months and before the track.

Also,Also,Also, I removed the tune to have the stall flash installed at the ford dealership and put it back into the car after the flash.

Also, Also, Also,Also, I removed the tune when ford was doing warranty work.

I'm sure I've done more with the tuner but I cant think of it right now!!!

That would make sense, considering that the programmer is pretty much a paperweight once you've got your settings where you want them. But the greedy manufacturers of the handhelds don't want logic getting in the way of their profits.

 

[Fastback]

well, on cobrabob's page it basically says that a 2.93 and a 2lb/3.1 combo are producing the same boost. So if i understand what you are syaing then I will see torque come on sooner with the 2lb/3.1? Is it more torque or is the torque just moved lower in the curve? does this sound like a better combo? It looks like the pulleys are still large enough to prevent belt slip, I'll have the billetflow idlers this should help also?


Mike

 

[AmazonTuning]

it isnt more torque..it is TQ sooner and longer when you use a lower crank pulley..the bigger the crank pulley the sooner..using a 2lb lower is not going to make a real big difference because it is the smaller of all the sizes usually used.. the trick is to use the largest effective top pulley and the largest lower pulley..this gives the belt more surface to contact with to cut down on belt slip which really kills your boost and HP

this is why you see alot of 3.10-3.00-293 upper and 4-6 lb lower cars

if you have any questions Id be happy to discuss this at length with you if you want to contact us

 

[Fastback]

How about a 3.4/6lb, in your opinion am I getting into the area of too much boost for a stock eaton? Also it looks like I'll need a new alt pulley as well huh?

 

[AmazonTuning]

using a 3.4 would not be as effective as a 293-300-310 with a 6lb lower..there have been people who have used 8lb lowers with the stock blower pulleys ..not alot of data on that combo though