Looks like it's going to make some power.
Trinity article about motors blowing up
- Thread starter WicK
- Start date
I’m assuming billet oil pump gears in the stock oil pump housing?
Also, swap out that McCloud for an XClutch and you’ll be happier.
I run an XClutch triple
-J
Also, swap out that McCloud for an XClutch and you’ll be happier.
I run an XClutch triple
-J
I know my stock clutch is on borrowed time. I just looked up there clutches, they seem to be priced pretty reasonable, I was going to go with the Spec SS clutch again, mostly because I don't have to shim anything and it's a direct fit. Do you have the shim the XClutch or is it a direct bolt in?
For the dual clutch and a T56 Magnum which is almost identical I was told 8mm shim will be included. The reps are very helpful checking on any need to make the install properly.
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That's good to hear and yes I'd be doing the twin disc clutch That's rated for 960hp, I'll have to reach out to them.
Happier how?
Ive come to realize I knew nothing about my “first motor”, so it’s safe to say I know squat about clutches
I have to assume it’s the same if not better than my stock one.
How is the xclutch against Mantic?
I'm assuming the shop rebuilding your engine is guiding you along the way. The McLeod RXT, Spec SS, centerforce DYAD, or the XClutch are going to hold the power you're going to make. Just go with what the shop recommends. Odds are they will recommend the RXT.
Unfortunately many shops recommend the product with the highest margin.
I’ve had one of all the clutches you mentioned and like my current XClutch the most with Spec being second.
The XClutch came with everything you need down to the pilot bushing and flywheel bolts.
Plus the only rep in the USA is a close friend and he left Exedy for his current position.
I’ve also met the engineer who is an enthusiast and they built the clutch to do everything I asked for: hold 1000rwtq, allow some slip/modulation at the track and hold up to my abuse
Yes, I paid for my clutch, just a small friend discount.
Also, no shims needed on my clutch install.
-J
In Australia the XClutch is known to be a superior product.
That Mantic suitcase definitely drew some customers though
I drove in a 30mi True Street Cruise then made 3 back to back to back 9 second passes at full street weight, full interior, right about 4000#
When we took it out after the first season there was little to no wear.
-J
Oh. Yea for sure. They’ve guided me through it all. But the comments and suggestions here allow me to ask better questions when I was deciding what my goals and expectations were going to be with this build.
for example, initially I was going to port the heads out and everything that comes along with that but it was determined that doing that would be over kill for what I was going to end up with. So instead I allocated those dollars to suspension.
i wish I had soaked up this knowledge before thinking it was ok to shift at 7000 rpm (which really means about 7300 rpm ) from 3rd to 4th.....
that’s about a 23K lesson.....
It's was a expensive lesson, but at least you have a good outlook. SVTP has a lot of great and very knowledgeable guys that have been through what you're going through. @biminiLX is definitely right on the clutch situation and I would go with his recommendation. But you're heading in the right direction.
Figured I’d update on this. The car was completed a little while back. In November.
Sounds good and feels strong.
Must admit, though, I’m afraid to get on it. Lol….mainly because I’m afraid to “break” it again. After 30K invested, I’m just NOT there yet…
Aside from that I’m happy with the build. I have to remind myself that I basically just rebuilt the stock motor with MUCH better parts (Diamond pistons, I-beams, ARP all around, CJ crank shaft, New FMS Block….).
Should I be disappointed at 800rwhp?? I was really hoping I would be 850+ on pump 93 octane. But ….. meh….
I still have not changed out the crank shaft pulley….. that should bump me up a bit….
One thing that is bothering me is that every now and then my engine light comes on and when I put my Bosch scanner on it always says the same error code “Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected” or “Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected” …… I can clear the codes with the scanner but damn this bothers me…..I have brought to their attention but it gets brushed off and they tell me not to worry because of this that and the other……
Thoughts on this check engine issue anyone?
I’m feeling like I should just take it to another shop to diagnose this particular problem…..which I hate to do because my shop has done a wonderful job on this build…..I’m just not sure what to do…..
Ultimately I want to feel SOLID about the build and confident that I can smash on the gas when and where I want and not be afraid that the check engine light will come on or even worse….. BOOM
Sounds good and feels strong.
Must admit, though, I’m afraid to get on it. Lol….mainly because I’m afraid to “break” it again. After 30K invested, I’m just NOT there yet…
Aside from that I’m happy with the build. I have to remind myself that I basically just rebuilt the stock motor with MUCH better parts (Diamond pistons, I-beams, ARP all around, CJ crank shaft, New FMS Block….).
Should I be disappointed at 800rwhp?? I was really hoping I would be 850+ on pump 93 octane. But ….. meh….
I still have not changed out the crank shaft pulley….. that should bump me up a bit….
One thing that is bothering me is that every now and then my engine light comes on and when I put my Bosch scanner on it always says the same error code “Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected” or “Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected” …… I can clear the codes with the scanner but damn this bothers me…..I have brought to their attention but it gets brushed off and they tell me not to worry because of this that and the other……
Thoughts on this check engine issue anyone?
I’m feeling like I should just take it to another shop to diagnose this particular problem…..which I hate to do because my shop has done a wonderful job on this build…..I’m just not sure what to do…..
Ultimately I want to feel SOLID about the build and confident that I can smash on the gas when and where I want and not be afraid that the check engine light will come on or even worse….. BOOM
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Happy to hear you got your GT500 back up and running, 800 to 850 is about all can really expect on pump gas safely. Depending on what supercharger you run you might be able to make more.
I just had my engine built by JDM engineering and they told me the same thing on pump gas. On E85 it's a whole different game.
As for your misfire issue, what plugs did they put in your car? You can do a compression test and a leak down test to verify the engine is solid. How many miles are on your new build? I'd also pull the plugs out and take a look at them, make sure they all look the same, who is your tuner?
Plugs- NGL TR7ix (parts list attached)Happy to hear you got your GT500 back up and running, 800 to 850 is about all can really expect on pump gas safely. Depending on what supercharger you run you might be able to make more.
I just had my engine built by JDM engineering and they told me the same thing on pump gas. On E85 it's a whole different game.
As for your misfire issue, what plugs did they put in your car? You can do a compression test and a leak down test to verify the engine is solid. How many miles are on your new build? I'd also pull the plugs out and take a look at them, make sure they all look the same, who is your tuner?
As of today I probably have about 300-500 miles on the new build.
Tuner is the same shop that did the build…(I’ll keep their name out of it for now.)
Definitely gonna work on getting the Misfire situation resolved. That’s really the only thing on my mind when I drive it….
NGK TR7IX plugs Usually don't cause misfires, I run NGK BR7EF plugs gapped at .26 on pump gas. I would definitely ask them to do a compression test on the engine. Especially with all the money you've spent with them. You can also reach out BJ McCarty at Venomous Tuning. He will probably charge you a little to review your datalog, but he can tell you if the tune looks good.
I had a misfire code coming up with a tune then I went with bj and no longer had that misfire
interesting
I was going to suggest simply swapping coils around. IE swap 2&3 7&8 and see if the misfire follows the coil or not. If not then look at plugs and compression/leak down etc...
Yea I was going a little crazy but for me mine was all in the tune.
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