This is correct.
Track Key... How much power added?
- Thread starter Tyler72
- Start date
I run 93 octane and I still hear some very light detonation in 6th gear on the highway when squeezing the throttle from time to time with the track key. 91 octane might still not be enough. I realize in some markets
91 is the best you can get.
91 is the best you can get.
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Cool, didn't know that. It says 91 on the inside of the gas lid... Thought that applied to both keys.
93 vs 91 was worth 10 rwhp on the dyno for us. The car runs close to max timing, so it seems to always be on the knock sensors pulling timing on 91
wlane
Have you made any runs using 87 octane?
This may be a dumb question, but since a 2 octane drop resulted in the loss of 10 rwhp, can one interpolate that a 6 octane drop would cost 30 rwhp?
Have you made any runs using 87 octane?
This may be a dumb question, but since a 2 octane drop resulted in the loss of 10 rwhp, can one interpolate that a 6 octane drop would cost 30 rwhp?
No I haven't made any pulls on 87, but at between $8,000-$10,000 to repair the motor if it detonates and breaks a piston... 93 octane would be all I would put in my own car.
Agreed, there is a reason there is a 91 octane decal on the gas door. If Ford did a fuel analysis, I think you would be SOL.
Never noticed the decal on the door, I have put 87 in mine before since it says in the owners manual you can, I don't have the trackey though.
True, I had heard somewhere that cars in the US have to take 87, or at least I thought that was a thing. I don't see why on a stock PCM it wouldn't down tune, I do get that it wouldn't work with the trackey since it is a specific tune.
Understood, however the GT and Boss seem to have the same compression ratio and the GT can take 87, so I would assume as long as I don't put Wawa 87 in it I should be fine.
Your car, your engine, so you can put whatever in it if you want, but the warranty does state that improper fuel damage isn't covered. So, I'll spend the extra $0.20 a gallon and run 93 in it. For me it just isn't worth the risk.
I did dyno the car yesterday... 2 pulls with the regular key, and 2 with the track key. All 4 runs made within 1 hp and 1 ft of torque regardless of which key. Not only were the peak numbers the same, the power curves were also identical when laid over each other. I started the pulls at 2500 RPM and pulled all the way to 7450. The test would complete a split second before the rev limiter hit and that's where it made peak HP. Torque curve is very flat throughout the RPM range. Peak HP was 361.8@7448 and peak TQ was 308.1@4602 (Mustang Dyno).
So Ford's claim of more low end toque with the track key is total BS...
My final conclusion on the track key; only buy it as a novelty item. Don't purchase it because you think it'll make you faster. The launch control feature is cool, and the lopey idle is neat although pretty faint and mild compared to how many of the aftermarket tunes make them sound. Only other benefit to it that I can see is that it doesn't completely wipe out your powertrain warranty. If you can get a good price on it, go for it. But if the dealer is gonna cram one in you for $500 like they did to me, I'd say pass and buy a real programmer such as one from American Muscle or Lethal Performance, just as long as an engine warranty isn't something you are paranoid about.
I did dyno the car yesterday... 2 pulls with the regular key, and 2 with the track key. All 4 runs made within 1 hp and 1 ft of torque regardless of which key. Not only were the peak numbers the same, the power curves were also identical when laid over each other. I started the pulls at 2500 RPM and pulled all the way to 7450. The test would complete a split second before the rev limiter hit and that's where it made peak HP. Torque curve is very flat throughout the RPM range. Peak HP was 361.8@7448 and peak TQ was 308.1@4602 (Mustang Dyno).
So Ford's claim of more low end toque with the track key is total BS...
My final conclusion on the track key; only buy it as a novelty item. Don't purchase it because you think it'll make you faster. The launch control feature is cool, and the lopey idle is neat although pretty faint and mild compared to how many of the aftermarket tunes make them sound. Only other benefit to it that I can see is that it doesn't completely wipe out your powertrain warranty. If you can get a good price on it, go for it. But if the dealer is gonna cram one in you for $500 like they did to me, I'd say pass and buy a real programmer such as one from American Muscle or Lethal Performance, just as long as an engine warranty isn't something you are paranoid about.
I ran a few tanks of 87 through my Boss with my normal key, to get an owners perspective on the performance differences. I found none. Car ran great, didn't knock (audibly), and pretty much the same performance feel of 93. Granted this was in cooler months, and I wasn't driving seriously hard for extended periods of time either. Trying to deny a warranty claim because of fuel, would be very difficult to try to prove these days.
Mine has no sticker on the fuel door:shrug: always put 93 in it though.
Not really. It's the same as not putting the right type of oil. Ford will void your warranty if they can prove you used a wrong type of oil. Had this problem with an ecoboost owner who wanted to skimp on maintenance.
I have noticed a little better gas mileage in the car with 87. Plus I couldn't find a Prius for the right price.
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