^^^
This.
Totaled with heavy mods
- Thread starter slagburn
- Start date
This.
I'm still not getting the need to pull parts off.
As others have mentioned, if you were at fault, I can see why the insurance company would only give you up to the value in which you are currently insured (a stock Mustang).
But, the person that hit you hit a more expensive car. It's irrelevant to that person's insurance company whether you insured the car for more with YOUR insurance company. You are entitled to be made whole after that other person's negligence.
I see it like if your neck was hurting -- if you were at fault, your insurance company would pay your medical bills, but not give you additional for pain and suffering. However, since someone else hit you, that person's insurance company should be paying you for your pain.
The fact that they are allowing you to yank the parts only supports this --- they want a reason to not pay you any more for the car than they have to. Once you take your own time and expense to remove the parts, they will see their liability as diminished.
If the car was stock, and you wanted to take the motor with you, I'm sure they would allow that too . . . then want to reimburse you for even less than the car is worth stock.
As others have mentioned, if you were at fault, I can see why the insurance company would only give you up to the value in which you are currently insured (a stock Mustang).
But, the person that hit you hit a more expensive car. It's irrelevant to that person's insurance company whether you insured the car for more with YOUR insurance company. You are entitled to be made whole after that other person's negligence.
I see it like if your neck was hurting -- if you were at fault, your insurance company would pay your medical bills, but not give you additional for pain and suffering. However, since someone else hit you, that person's insurance company should be paying you for your pain.
The fact that they are allowing you to yank the parts only supports this --- they want a reason to not pay you any more for the car than they have to. Once you take your own time and expense to remove the parts, they will see their liability as diminished.
If the car was stock, and you wanted to take the motor with you, I'm sure they would allow that too . . . then want to reimburse you for even less than the car is worth stock.
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^^^
This.
OP please explain why you dont force them to pay for the car w/ mods? Then they can give you a buyback value.
From what I see, I got a guy that could fix that for 5k. I'll buy the wrecked car from you w/ the mods. And you can go nuts w/ your new '13 grey auto.
Save yourself a whole headache.
Insurance companies are only looking out for their own interest, and if you don't know your rights. they'll take advantage of that. Most people just want a quick check, so they could move on. And they take advantage of that, too. They will never offer you the full value for your loss. You have to fight to get even 80%. And if you get a lawyer, he'll force you to settle. So he gets his guaranteed cut 20-35%. And without a lawyer they play games w/ you. Just do some research on what your rights are. And be ready to wait for a check for 1-3 months. GL and keep us updated. We are here to help each other.
Well atleast your ok 
. Good luck with getting some of your money back and keep us posted on the results. What insurance company do u have?
. Good luck with getting some of your money back and keep us posted on the results. What insurance company do u have?Again, the OP was not at fault. He should be COMPLETELY COVERED. It does not matter how much his personal insurance covers. His insurance should not come into play beyond helping in communications.
OP. Fight until you get a check covering EVERYTHING and then buy it back from the salvage yard. I did that with a maxima i totaled. Pretty sure I got a check for ~$3k and then bought it back for $400, took out what I wanted/needed and sold the rest for $600.
OP. Fight until you get a check covering EVERYTHING and then buy it back from the salvage yard. I did that with a maxima i totaled. Pretty sure I got a check for ~$3k and then bought it back for $400, took out what I wanted/needed and sold the rest for $600.
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Can't you buy it back directly from the insurance, for the estimated amount they expect to get at auction. The salvage yard will see all those goodies, and won't give it up so cheap.
I'm actually not sure who I bought my car back from. Whether it was a holding lot or salvage yard. All I remember was it being carried on a huge fork lift.
The OP will never get the value of the aftermarket parts whether he was at fault or not. best case scenario is that the OP makes a big enough fuss that his insurance company will subrogate against the other vehicles insurance for the car plus value of parts, the other insurance company will more than likely come back with a number a little bit higher than what a stock car would be worth, and his insurance company will take the settlement as it is "better" than just the stock value.
Best thing to do as some one else said, pull built motor, buy new car, swap built motor in, sell brand new coyote with under 100miles on it, profit.
Best thing to do as some one else said, pull built motor, buy new car, swap built motor in, sell brand new coyote with under 100miles on it, profit.
I'm pretty sure there's no 'forcing' an insurance company to do anything, so I'm not going to rely on them to pay for all my parts after they go over the horizon on a tow truck. I'm planning on replacing the car with similar, so why would I want to see all this stuff leave only to buy it all over again? And that's assuming I even get enough money to pay new prices. It's just not worth the risk. I got the go-ahead to put it back to stock and that's what I'm doing.
I'm gathering receipts and hope that they will make good on paying me for the engine work. If they refuse, not sure what I'll do. I'm a tech so swapping motors or whatever is no big deal, but I have no other Coyotes laying around.
They don't want to spend money on litigation.
They never give you a good first offer. Just don't sign anything untill your happy. Its cool that you can do all the labor for free, because thats really hard to fully recover. However any estimates you give them should include labor costs. They're always hesitent to pay for engine work, because its not something they can see. So pictures of the build and receipts are the only proof. GL
pretty awesome. glad to see you keep on going.
Here in texas we have what we call "diminished value" it is the price between trade in of your car the day before the wreck, and the day after you receive the car from the body ship repaired. My old 2012 ram 1500 was hit with 78 miles on the ODO. No joke, by a 17 year old girl texting and driving. Good thing I was raised right as if it were a teenaged boy he would be dead. 35k dollar truck went down to a 22k dollar trade in. I received 11780 and some change, check in hand for the diminished value. ONLY possible because the accident was NOT my fault. Some states have this and some don't. This can be claimed ontop of what ever else you want. If they decide to fix it and you want to get rid of it, or what ever keep this in mind.
Your best bet at keeping the motor would be to just find a FUBAR 5.0 stock block and throw it in there and give it to them before they total it. At the end of the day, I feel bad for you as I have been following your build from day one. Even before I picked up my 5.0... It's sickening and horrible to know the hard work and money into this car and to have it ruined. No way you're going to get all your money back. I would be surprised if you got over half back... One small thing can set you back years bank account wise...
I had a bad curse I recently broke with this new 5.0. I had 3 new vehicles in the past 2 years an f150, a ram 1500, and a new HD sportster. All of them were hit by somebody texting and driving on my side of town while I was sat still at a light or 4 way stop WITH paper plates still on them. Under 1k miles on them. I parked my 5.0 for the first month back in Jan for the three weeks I had paper plates. I even had the fiance drive it home from the dealer for me and park it LOL
Your best bet at keeping the motor would be to just find a FUBAR 5.0 stock block and throw it in there and give it to them before they total it. At the end of the day, I feel bad for you as I have been following your build from day one. Even before I picked up my 5.0... It's sickening and horrible to know the hard work and money into this car and to have it ruined. No way you're going to get all your money back. I would be surprised if you got over half back... One small thing can set you back years bank account wise...
I had a bad curse I recently broke with this new 5.0. I had 3 new vehicles in the past 2 years an f150, a ram 1500, and a new HD sportster. All of them were hit by somebody texting and driving on my side of town while I was sat still at a light or 4 way stop WITH paper plates still on them. Under 1k miles on them. I parked my 5.0 for the first month back in Jan for the three weeks I had paper plates. I even had the fiance drive it home from the dealer for me and park it LOL
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Keep plugging away and get back what you can. Good luck.
Dude this just happened to me, not as bad as yours but hard enough to bend my rear frame rails and break my drivers side motor mount. So far they are at about 12,000 dollars in body work, I'm demanding they take it to a mechanic to check the drive train as it sounded horrible when I drove off the freeway. They said there's no chance it will get to 20,000 dollars in damage, which is 75% of the value and where they will total it. Talk about a crappy situation. I hope everything works out for you, they should let you buy it back and you can yank the good parts then sell the rest.
Dimished value means nothing if the car is totaled.
Shove an old 4.6 in it and tell them to come pick it up
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