Thoughts on this 1979 Ford Bronco XLT?

DriftwoodSVT

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I found a 1979 Bronco XLT near me that I really like. I'm considering buying it and giving my 1996 Bronco to my son when he starts driving next year.

Cons: I'm not very familiar with Carb engines.

They are asking $14k OBO. Any feedback and / or thoughts on it? Anything to be weary of? Seems the interior is pretty clean, not a ton of extra wires or crap.

Is $14k fair, or too high?

---------------

$14,000 OBO

1979 Ford Bronco XLT. It was restored in the 90’s. Tires have been changed from first pics to original size. 351M auto, long tube headers. The back window is not functioning at the moment. Front seats out of a Durango but rest of the interior is good. All new shocks and brakes.

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Thanks!

(y)
 

DriftwoodSVT

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I was thinking about offering $10k and see what they say.

The market for the 1978-1979 model is pretty high demand. For example, this 1979 base model they are asking $25k.

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Another at $25k:

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$16k for this one:

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All of the older generation Broncos have gone up in price and demand. I see Bronco's like my 1996 for 40s now.
 
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13COBRA

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I would offer $6,000.

0% chance I'd give $10k for that hunk of junk.

Just because people are asking stupid amounts of money for 50 year old buckets, doesn't mean it's worth that. Those same rides 4 years ago were selling for $5-8k.
 
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DriftwoodSVT

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I would offer $6,000.

0% chance I'd give $10k for that hunk of junk.

Just because people are asking stupid amounts of money for 50 year old buckets, doesn't mean it's worth that. Those same rides 4 years ago were selling for $5-8k.

Before the new Broncos came out, yes. I recall you getting a ridiculous amount of money for a 1996 Bronco recently :)
 

13COBRA

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Before the new Broncos came out, yes. I recall you getting a ridiculous amount of money for a 1996 Bronco recently :)

Which was in much nicer condition than any of the ones you posted...and 20 years newer.
 

DriftwoodSVT

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Which was in much nicer condition than any of the ones you posted...and 20 years newer.

I've been watching BAT and decent 1978-1979 models are bidding up to 30s-40s and not even meeting reserve.

Guess I will keep looking for now.
 

hotcobra03

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78/79 my favorite years.

Find stuff wrong.

Needs axle joints and both front and rear cv joints.

And maybe huck bolt issue.

Hit him low. 5k. Cash in hand

I have a 95 I did have to replace cross member under engine ,
It cracked all the way around

Not fun to do
 

SolarYellow

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Right off the bat, if you aren't familiar with carbs and such, don't even look. You'll buy it and in a month's time you'll be on here asking what's wrong with it.
 

ToddW702

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I want one of these in a bad way. I may offer 8k for this one if it doesn’t have a bunch of rust. The issue with carbs these days is vapor lock and bad gas gumming up the carb. Use ethanol free if you get it and it will save you a whole lot of trouble. If your pretty handy you should be fine as they are pretty easy to work on and get parts for.

With that said you may have to start replacing just about everything as you start to drive it. Does it have any work done to it as far as maintenance? New rad, bushings, shocks, fuel tank? It would be nice to have some of that stuff already replaced already to make the repair list shorter.


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03Sssnake

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I want one of these in a bad way. I may offer 8k for this one if it doesn’t have a bunch of rust. The issue with carbs these days is vapor lock and bad gas gumming up the carb. Use ethanol free if you get it and it will save you a whole lot of trouble. If your pretty handy you should be fine as they are pretty easy to work on and get parts for.

With that said you may have to start replacing just about everything as you start to drive it. Does it have any work done to it as far as maintenance? New rad, bushings, shocks, fuel tank? It would be nice to have some of that stuff already replaced already to make the repair list shorter.


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Good luck finding ethanol free. There is a buckees near me in katy that sells and sometimes farm and fuel type stores will usually have it…
 

ToddW702

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I have this little old ass gas station called Daniel’s Best Buy in Greenville TX and they have 91 ethanol free. The Buckees is about 15 minutes from me and they only have 89. But your right not to many places have it. It’s a shame really. It is also all I use in my lawn equipment. Hopefully it last because everyone I go to my local spot I wonder when it will shut down.


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andymarkv

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I feel your pain...I was looking for a Dentside to mess around with and everyone wanted $5-6K for stuff that was completely SHOT!

Hit up @OX1, he knows a TON about that gen Bronco!
 

03cobra#694

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Good luck finding ethanol free. There is a buckees near me in katy that sells and sometimes farm and fuel type stores will usually have it…

I have this little old ass gas station called Daniel’s Best Buy in Greenville TX and they have 91 ethanol free. The Buckees is about 15 minutes from me and they only have 89. But your right not to many places have it. It’s a shame really. It is also all I use in my lawn equipment. Hopefully it last because everyone I go to my local spot I wonder when it will shut down.


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That's odd about the ethanol free stuff, it's everywhere here. About a $1 more per gallon. I get a 5 gallon jug for my yard stuff and mower.
 

03Sssnake

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That's odd about the ethanol free stuff, it's everywhere here. About a $1 more per gallon. I get a 5 gallon jug for my yard stuff and mower.
and it’s bullshit it cost more, its cheaper to refine/produce since they aren’t adding ethanol..I wonder if there is an additional tax tacked on since it’s ethanol free.
 

OX1

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I've had over 20 of the 78/79's Bronco's. I currently have a nicer 79 I use to plow my driveway/tow my boat (and take to shows), and a 78 rock crawler with Unimog axles on 43's.

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I have no issue with carbs and ethanol gas, as long as Marine Stabil is used (I pretty much use it in every tank on any IC engine'd thing I have, that sits longer than a month).

If the body is truly rust free, I'd pay 10 easy, but I am also in a super rust prone area. Check the front floors, lower rear door jambs, center (top) of rear wheelwells, lower rear 1/4's (corners), and lower edge of TG. If no rust in any of those areas, should be good to go.

Overall they are pretty stout. 351m is gutless, but will literally run for years with ZERO oil pressure at idle (I've done it). That one has a C6/NP205 Case (since it has locking hubs, does not appear to be a full time 203 case), 9" rear and D44 high pinion front. All of those drivetrain items can take tremendous amounts of abuse and live practically forever, with minimal maintenance.

Things mechanically to look for are upper track bar frame bracket, they hollow out and even with new bushings, you can get "death wobble". Check CV's on driveshafts. Check for frame cracks around PS box mount (usually only an issue with big tires, used offroad). Check radius arms bushings, both ends, Trans/TC mount on crossmember, and bushings in side mount of transfer case (also checks bolts mounting cross member to frame and radius arm brackets, sometimes loosen up).

One thing hurting value on that one is the seats (especially the front) . Getting pretty hard to find the correct seats. And those rear side, panels. No one makes the correct one's new and good luck finding them. Even that pass door panel will be tough to find.
 

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