Thoughts on IC Resevoir for ice?

[STROKD]

Anyone have any experience with running one of these? TF, PFab, Canton, and other brands? Which one do u have and how much help was it?

Im having problems with the car pulling timing, so instead of taking that feature out of the tune, I thought about running it hard with ice water in the resevoir. I wasn't going to tune more aggressive for it because I know it doesnt last long, I just thought it might keep the car cooler so I can do some runs back to back without my car getting mad at me and pulling all the power away.:lol1:

If you do put ice in it, do u have to drain it all and put radiator fluid in it so it wont rust? or some water weter or purple ice or somethin?

Thoughts? Pros/Cons to having one?

 

[WS6JJP]

Im having problems with the car pulling timing, so instead of taking that feature out of the tune, I thought about running it hard with ice water in the resevoir. I wasn't going to tune more aggressive for it because I know it doesnt last long, I just thought it might keep the car cooler so I can do some runs back to back without my car getting mad at me and pulling all the power away.:lol1:

how about a killer chiller:shrug:

 

[PWORLDSTANG]

Anyone have any experience with running one of these? TF, PFab, Canton, and other brands? Which one do u have and how much help was it?

Im having problems with the car pulling timing, so instead of taking that feature out of the tune, I thought about running it hard with ice water in the resevoir. I wasn't going to tune more aggressive for it because I know it doesnt last long, I just thought it might keep the car cooler so I can do some runs back to back without my car getting mad at me and pulling all the power away.:lol1:

If you do put ice in it, do u have to drain it all and put radiator fluid in it so it wont rust? or some water weter or purple ice or somethin?

Thoughts? Pros/Cons to having one?

Simply put, yes, they work. But, they are most beneficial at the track where Ice can be filled and refilled after each pass. There's no point in filling with ice on the street, as the ice will melt to water.

I have the LFP Intercooler resevoir. A lot of these are known to corrode around the fill cap. I'd look into the new True Forged units with billet fill caps. They come in any design/finish you want. I like those a lot, and will switch over to one myself in the future.

 

[PWORLDSTANG]

Have you datalogged your car to verify that it is pulling timing, or are you judging by seat of the pants feeling? When I rode in your car for those 4 runs, I couldn't feel a thing.

You also told me you shift your car at 7,000+ RPM. IMHO, way too high on an Eaton, regardless of pulley set up. I'd like to see a dyno graph if you have one. You spin your shit as high as I spin my Whipple.

Also, you said your car makes peak power at 6,800 RPM with your 2.8'' pulley, but even Eatons with the stock pulley don't make power that high up. When my car was pullied, I made peak power at 6,200RPM's with a 2.76 upper.

I think if your car is having heat issues, it's from you shifting so high.

Whatever the issue may be, I'd like to help you get it figured out if I can.

:beer:

 

[iBiTe03]

Agree with PWORLDSTANG, there is no reason to shift at 7K, No pullied Eaton I don't think has ever made power that high. My 2.76/4lb combo stops at 6,300. I have been running a Canton box for 2 years and its starting to corrode around the cap. I just recently had to get a new cap for it. I just run straight water in mine and yes the fittings off the IC manifold will start to rust.

 

[STROKD]

I am going to Dallas tomorrow, Ill go by HPP and get a print out... hp peak is at 67-6800 and it rolls down slowly. U are right I do shift at 6900-7100 reguarly when I race... Manny told me if its making power up there shift up there, and it has always run good till recently.

The nights u rode with me/raced me it was also colder than balls, and when I ran J is was about 20+ degrees warmer. If you remember we also coasted at least a mile or two between runs with the heater on full blast, and I didnt get but 1/2 mile break in my last run and I didnt have the heater on because it was hot outside.:lol1:

Im gonna order me up some AF scan gauges when I get back to town, and then try to see if it is indeed pulling timing. I wont know for certain until then. I was just wondering if a icy box would help slow down the problem.:beer:

Have you datalogged your car to verify that it is pulling timing, or are you judging by seat of the pants feeling? When I rode in your car for those 4 runs, I couldn't feel a thing.

You also told me you shift your car at 7,000+ RPM. IMHO, way too high on an Eaton, regardless of pulley set up. I'd like to see a dyno graph if you have one. You spin your shit as high as I spin my Whipple.

Also, you said your car makes peak power at 6,800 RPM with your 2.8'' pulley, but even Eatons with the stock pulley don't make power that high up. When my car was pullied, I made peak power at 6,200RPM's with a 2.76 upper.

I think if your car is having heat issues, it's from you shifting so high.

Whatever the issue may be, I'd like to help you get it figured out if I can.

:beer:

 

[webleedorange61]

Do a trunk mount Ice box

 

[STROKD]

Do a trunk mount Ice box

thats an option, but I have plans for the trunk... wont be room for a ice chest in the trunk.:thumbsup:

 

[IronTerp]

Anyone have any experience with running one of these? TF, PFab, Canton, and other brands? Which one do u have and how much help was it?

Im having problems with the car pulling timing, so instead of taking that feature out of the tune, I thought about running it hard with ice water in the resevoir. I wasn't going to tune more aggressive for it because I know it doesnt last long, I just thought it might keep the car cooler so I can do some runs back to back without my car getting mad at me and pulling all the power away.:lol1:

If you do put ice in it, do u have to drain it all and put radiator fluid in it so it wont rust? or some water weter or purple ice or somethin?

Thoughts? Pros/Cons to having one?

STROKD, there are a ton of folks running these aftermarket ice boxes and plenty of activity with them at the track as fellas try and keep their Eaton's cooler while drag racing. Here's a writeup I did awhile back that's now located in the Terminator How To Forum:


Ice Box Strategies
1) It is possible to get a IAT2 cooling benefit from the PFab, LFP, True Forge style intercooler reservoir if used correctly. Certainly having a larger capacity tank in the trunk can have big advantages, but for the majority of us, the expense and hassle of this setup does not merit the limited track opportunities where it will come in handy. Plus, it weighs more!!! (even though the weight is at least over the rear wheels.....).

2) Obviously cooler days in the 50's and 60's will help here, but this is where you're going to have the best opportunity to set PR's with Terminators anyway. We race for fun in the summer and for records in March, April, October, and November! It will certainly help in the heat, but not to the same degree.

3) Track rentals or uncrowded/short wait track days, where you do not have to wait long in the staging lanes, is a big benefit.

4) You need to cool down the intercooler/supercharger as much as possible after you arrive at the track or make a run, by draining and adding ice in the pit area and letting the IC pump circulate for 20-30 minutes. Make sure your battery is good to go here! Do this immediately after you return to the pits. Sometimes I'll go thru 2 iceing cycles here, but one good one will usually cool it down pretty well.

5) Recommend a 45 to 60 minute wait between runs.

6) To maximize your iceing strategy, the last thing you do before leaving for the staging lanes is drain the reservoir tank again and then add 4-5 "blocks" of ice, (see pic below), into your reservoir tank, topping it off with typical bag ice chips. Your IC pump will be off at this time. You can just use regular chip ice, but it will probably be gone during your run in 2nd gear or so, while the blocks can possibly last through 4th gear.

7) Advance to the staging lanes and keep your car off as much as possible while you're waiting in line. This will conserve your ice and keep your supercharger cooler.

8) Make your run and watch your ET/MPH potentially improve to new records!

I fill 25 or so of these with water, (about 2/3rds full), the night before going to the track, and right before I leave for the staging lanes, pull 4-5 of them out of the cooler, tear the cup away from the ice block and drop the block into the tank.


Use this setup to "jumper" your IC pump in the pits:

 

[STROKD]

Thanks for the great info! Do you know your before and after IAT2s with this process? What about using one of those Nitrous bars to spray the HE down, would that work as well? I know it'd be a lot damn easier.:lol1:

 

[IronTerp]

Thanks for the great info! Do you know your before and after IAT2s with this process? What about using one of those Nitrous bars to spray the HE down, would that work as well? I know it'd be a lot damn easier.:lol1:

Although I've been datalogging for over a year now, I have yet to do it at the track. All I can tell you is that in 16 of my last 30 passes, my 1/4 MPH has been 30+ higher than my 1/8th MPH. I fugure the air charge is staying fairly cool and would doubt very seriously if any timing is being pulled.

 

[99stanger]

Last time at the track I gained 2 mph by icing it down good.... it defintly works.

 

[STROKD]

Have you datalogged your car to verify that it is pulling timing, or are you judging by seat of the pants feeling? When I rode in your car for those 4 runs, I couldn't feel a thing.

You also told me you shift your car at 7,000+ RPM. IMHO, way too high on an Eaton, regardless of pulley set up. I'd like to see a dyno graph if you have one. You spin your shit as high as I spin my Whipple.

Also, you said your car makes peak power at 6,800 RPM with your 2.8'' pulley, but even Eatons with the stock pulley don't make power that high up. When my car was pullied, I made peak power at 6,200RPM's with a 2.76 upper.

I think if your car is having heat issues, it's from you shifting so high.

Whatever the issue may be, I'd like to help you get it figured out if I can.

:beer:

As I mentioned I went by HPP while in town. Attached are the graphs, the single is the same run but in STD format to compare to AED's #s... The lower one is my 93 tune, the higher is my high octane tune (98+ or Torco).

Looks like 7K is a tad high. Manny told me to shift about 6500-6600, and I was shifting it around 6800-7000... so I was off about 200-300 rpm for max efficiency, but it doesnt lose but 15 hp at 7000 according the the cursor when I was looking at it, so it wasn't hurting me as much as everyone thinks, but it definitely can be improved by shifting a couple hundred sooner. Ill set my shift light to 6500 and it should be real close to perfect.

Also, I verified my tune starts to pull timing at 100* IAT2. Its a flat line up to 150, and at 150 it pulls 5.5*. So even if the car only his 120-130 its pullin 2-3 degrees. Manny also verified that on good gas this isn't necessary, so I will have him make me a street tune that takes this feature out for race gas only.:rockon: That shold pick me up my lost 25-30 rw or so with the lost timing Id suppose.

Anyway here are the graphs: Maybe a mix of the timing retard pulled out and ice and this thing will finally pull good up top.:banana: Also the AF on the slower pull looks like shit... the reason was it was having problems with the alternator... it has a new alternator on it and its as flat as the good pull, even on the 93. Just thought Id mention that, Manny wouldn't let me leave with a curve lookin like that!

 

[PWORLDSTANG]

Those graphs look like typical pullied Cobra graphs to me. Your power is definitely falling off before redline.

What I recommend is you datalog using your handheld, and send a copy of the datalog to Manny and Shaun to get their opinion on how things are looking. That will eliminte all guesses, and actually tell exactly what your car is doing. If it is anything heat related, that will be indicated in the datalog.

Also post your logs on here and ask for opinons on if everything looks normal. That will give you a lot of feedback on your car, and exactly what it's doing.

:beer:

 

[STROKD]

Those graphs look like typical pullied Cobra graphs to me. Your power is definitely falling off before redline.

What I recommend is you datalog using your handheld, and send a copy of the datalog to Manny and Shaun to get their opinion on how things are looking. That will eliminte all guesses, and actually tell exactly what your car is doing. If it is anything heat related, that will be indicated in the datalog.

Also post your logs on here and ask for opinons on if everything looks normal. That will give you a lot of feedback on your car, and exactly what it's doing.

:beer:

Good advice, I dont have a hand held, its SCT chipped... I could buy the racer pack I suppose. I'd like to get the scan gauges and itll tell me what my IATs are doing. If they are getting hot enough to pull timing, Ill just have another tune done and remove that from the equation. full timing up top will keep it happy Im sure.:beer: That and I need to shift it 200-300 rpm sooner, Im sure that will help my times as well.

 

[04sleeper]

Told you Matt. oke:

Are you in town? We could do some datalogging if you would like.

I could use my handheld to do the logging.

Let me know.

 

[STROKD]

Told you Matt. oke:

Are you in town? We could do some datalogging if you would like.

I could use my handheld to do the logging.

Let me know.

thanks kevin, no im in town, but not for good yet, car is in cali in storage till i move back... once i move back, better believe ill be callin ya.:beer:

do u pull timing for heat? Manny says it isnt necessary with good gas, what do u do?

 

[04sleeper]

thanks kevin, no im in town, but not for good yet, car is in cali in storage till i move back... once i move back, better believe ill be callin ya.:beer:

do u pull timing for heat? Manny says it isnt necessary with good gas, what do u do?

Since I switched to E85, I don't have the timing pull until 200*.