Those with 17x10.5 '03-'04 Replicas...

[hand-to-ball]

Did you have to do anything with your IRS bolt? Some sites are claiming you must use the button head style bolt to run this wheel on our cars but I'm not sure I want to do that...so for anyone with these or with experience, do you know what the true story is?

And further, if this might require a shorter bolt, then why don't the (nowhere to be found) 18x10.5's, is it all backspacing or what???

 

[SLEEPERSTATUS]

You can get the bolts from steeda if you want to go that route and if not use some spacers thats what im doing

 

[hand-to-ball]

Spacers as in not the bolt on kind? I also don't want to bolt the spacer to the hub, then the wheels to the spacer...would like as unobtrusive an install as possible, so I was wondering if anybody had luck just putting the 10.5's on with 315's and not had to modify anything??

 

[Tedisky]

Please do a search. This topic is covered on a weekly basis.

 

[hand-to-ball]

Please point me to some links or divulge some information you have learned because I tried searching several different ways and lots of times there's just too much information. I couldn't get a search on '10.5' to work either.

Besides, there's jacksh*t in the suspension part of the terminator forum - only 5 pages???

 

[03yllwguy]

All you need to know HERE

 

[twistedstang]

Why would you not want to put the button head bolts in- it literally takes 10 minutes and seems like a safer alternative to a spacer.

 

[20psirabbit]

Why would you not want to put the button head bolts in- it literally takes 10 minutes and seems like a safer alternative to a spacer.

+1, plus they only cost like $10, and if you do get some tire rub for any reason the button won't shred your sidewall, that stock bolt head looks like it would do a number on your sidewall if there was ever contact.

 

[01_OXFORD_SVT]

Im running the 17x10.5 replicas with 315/35/17 BFG KD's in the rear. I had to use a 3/8 spacer (I bought from lethalperformance). Everything is well however, the only problem I have is when I hit large bumps the tire comes into contact with the fender lip. So far its not cutting my tire, its only rubbing. Getting the fender lip rolled will cure that tho.

 

[hand-to-ball]

Why would you not want to put the button head bolts in- it literally takes 10 minutes and seems like a safer alternative to a spacer.

Because I've read somewhere that the head on those Steeda bolts isn't strong enough? Maybe I'm wrong...

03yellow...thanks.

 

[Got Torque]

I have the carriage bolts from MM and I run a spacer.
With the 315 Nitto's it was fine with just the bolt but when I went to the 315 BFG's I needed a spacer as well, small spacer anyways.

 

[FlaSeaDude]

I opted to install 3/8" spacers with extended lug nuts when I was running my 17 X 10.5" wheels with 315-35-17 tires. No problems with the tires rubbing either the IRS bolt or the fenders... :beer:

 

[spray175]

Spacers as in not the bolt on kind? I also don't want to bolt the spacer to the hub, then the wheels to the spacer...would like as unobtrusive an install as possible, so I was wondering if anybody had luck just putting the 10.5's on with 315's and not had to modify anything??

Im running the 03 replicas 17x10.5 with Hoosier 335's. I used a 5/16" spacer because the tires were hitting the IRS bolt when the car was jacked up. I dont have any rubbing issues and I have the HR sport springs in the rear.

 

[JMD0346]

I ground the bolt down some and run an 1/8th" spacer. It works. Ive had many sets of 315's with the 10.5's on this setup.

 

[hand-to-ball]

I ground the bolt down some and run an 1/8th" spacer. It works. Ive had many sets of 315's with the 10.5's on this setup.

With that 1/8th spacer you have plenty of thread for the lug nut to secure to?

 

[JMD0346]

With that 1/8th spacer you have plenty of thread for the lug nut to secure to?

Yeah I didnt have any problem with that. Obviously you lose a bit but not enough to matter IMO.

 

[04sleeper]

There are a few things to consider when running 17X10.5's.

First, it is going to be a tight fit no matter what. You have to check clearances inside and out.

Second is tire, some run wider than others. The 315 Nitto DR runs narrower than say a BFG or Goodyear.

Third is springs, the lower you go, the more clearance you get from the IRS bolt because it rides "inside" the wheel when under a full load. However, I recommend checking both under full load and with the car jacked up in the air with the suspension unloaded.

Fourth is camber bolt adjustment. You can move the top of the tire in and out about 1/2 inch on both sides so you may be able to get clearance inside or out. (Note: this may affect alignment) This is also the reason some people say that one tire seems to stick out further than the other from the fender lip.

Fifth is fender lip, in order to get overall safe clearance on the outside with most 315's, you should roll the fender lips. I have done dozens of cars and you would be amazed what just a little roll will give you in clearance. (It is also nice to keep from cutting the outside of your tires.

Sixth is spacers, most tires will require at least 1/8 inch or more. Up to 3/8 inch will usually be OK for most applications and anything over 1/4 inch should use extended reach studs. (But remember, the more spacer you put on, the close to the fender lip you get.)


Hope this helps.

 

[hand-to-ball]

Well thanks for all the help...seems like this is going to work but not 'cleanly'. I'm kind of looking for a proper fitment where I can just bolt up the rears. Looks like I'm headed for 18x10's.

Makes you wonder why the companies that did the '03 reps in 17x10.5 didn't do the right offset for IRS cars. Doesn't make much sense.