These parts for a rebuild ok?

EFFURJDM

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http://thmotorsports.com/mahle_/mahle_pistons_powerpak/mod220551f00/i-71757.aspxSo I think my 99 cobra finally had it . Theres knocking in the left side of the motor when under load. I took my car to couple shops and they think it maybe be 3 things .
1: piston slap
2:wrist pin
3: bad timing chain guids ( I dont think that the problem ) maybe .

Well I just decided to go ahead and rebuild yhe motor . So wanted to know if my choices of piston and rods are good to do . Trying to keep coast low as much as possible due to my foxbody needing a rebuild aswell :/ .

What do u guys think ?

http://thmotorsports.com/mahle_/mahle_pistons_powerpak/g-51175.aspx

http://thmotorsports.com/eagle/eagle_connecting_rod_set_hbeam/crs5933f8740/i-329383.aspx



Dropping my car off at the shop tomorrow so would like yo get my order in asap .
Any input would be great thx guys !!!
 
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snakeraper11b

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For one, those are stock bore pistons. If your heart is set on them, you'll need part #MOD220571F00. With a 8.933 deck height and and bore of 3.572 (standard .020") those pistons will yield a compression of aproximately 10.35:1. It doesn't say anything about the wrist pin diameter, top ring down, ring spacing, or valve reliefs. If you ever want to put decent cams in it and degree the intake below 112, you'll need reliefs, something to think about. If you ever plan on boosting it or turning some rpm's, wrist pin diameter will come into play. My suggestion would be to go with diamond 30013's and upgrade to the .200" wall pins. The compression height of those is 1.230" vs the Mahle's at the oem height of 1.220" This will bring the piston .002" in the block before it's decked. Take off .004" for the deck and you're at .002" out of the hole. Pair those with some .043" compressed height head gaskets and you get 10.33:1 compression and piston to head clearance of .041", better that the oem .048", but not dangerously close for the forged manley H beams.

Diamond 30013 - 4.6L 4V Street / Strip Flat Top Pistons - .020" Over Bore 3.572"

Eagle sucks. Go with manley instead on the rods.
Manley 4.6 H-Beam Rods

Just my opinions on the build and what would make a quality set up that would never need to be changed. I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any other questions!
 
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OW99

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For one, those are stock bore pistons. If your heart is set on them, you'll need part #MOD220571F00. With a 8.933 deck height and and bore of 3.572 (standard .020") those pistons will yield a compression of aproximately 10.35:1. It doesn't say anything about the wrist pin diameter, top ring down, ring spacing, or valve reliefs. If you ever want to put decent cams in it and degree the intake below 112, you'll need reliefs, something to think about. If you ever plan on boosting it or turning some rpm's, wrist pin diameter will come into play. My suggestion would be to go with diamond 30013's and upgrade to the .200" wall pins. The compression height of those is 1.230" vs the Mahle's at the oem height of 1.220" This will bring the piston .002" in the block before it's decked. Take off .004" for the deck and you're at .002" out of the hole. Pair those with some .043" compressed height head gaskets and you get 10.33:1 compression and piston to head clearance of .041", better that the oem .048", but not dangerously close for the forged manley H beams.

Diamond 30013 - 4.6L 4V Street / Strip Flat Top Pistons - .020" Over Bore 3.572"

Eagle sucks. Go with manley instead on the rods.
Manley 4.6 H-Beam Rods

Just my opinions on the build and what would make a quality set up that would never need to be changed. I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any other questions!

vunudu7a.jpg
 

EFFURJDM

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For one, those are stock bore pistons. If your heart is set on them, you'll need part #MOD220571F00. With a 8.933 deck height and and bore of 3.572 (standard .020") those pistons will yield a compression of aproximately 10.35:1. It doesn't say anything about the wrist pin diameter, top ring down, ring spacing, or valve reliefs. If you ever want to put decent cams in it and degree the intake below 112, you'll need reliefs, something to think about. If you ever plan on boosting it or turning some rpm's, wrist pin diameter will come into play. My suggestion would be to go with diamond 30013's and upgrade to the .200" wall pins. The compression height of those is 1.230" vs the Mahle's at the oem height of 1.220" This will bring the piston .002" in the block before it's decked. Take off .004" for the deck and you're at .002" out of the hole. Pair those with some .043" compressed height head gaskets and you get 10.33:1 compression and piston to head clearance of .041", better that the oem .048", but not dangerously close for the forged manley H beams.

Diamond 30013 - 4.6L 4V Street / Strip Flat Top Pistons - .020" Over Bore 3.572"

Eagle sucks. Go with manley instead on the rods.
Manley 4.6 H-Beam Rods

Just my opinions on the build and what would make a quality set up that would never need to be changed. I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any other questions!


hum...
my car is mostly a dd for me , prob wont ever see boost or spray.
i run my car ounce in awhile at the track or on Saturday nights but nothing crazy . so would like to get something stronger then stock .
so me running boost , cams , and spray is unlikely for this car.

im not all that knowledgeable on clearance and compression for each set up like turbo etc etc . would you still recommend the mahle pistons and the manley rods? cash is a little tight since my motor problem surprised me lol. my goal is anything thats stronger then stock , price fairly good but still good parts being used . if you can point me in the right detection that be great . thx for the help .
 

Brutal Metal

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I'd take it to a shop that works on Ford Modulars to find out what is ACTUALLY causing the noise instead of paying $5K on a rebuild...
 

4valved

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There's no point in making it stronger if your not planning on getting more ponies so just do a stock rebuild. That'll save money
 

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