Hahah no problem but I sent u the linksI deleted all social media. I couldn’t be happier lol but thank you for all the info man. Much appreciated
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Hahah no problem but I sent u the linksI deleted all social media. I couldn’t be happier lol but thank you for all the info man. Much appreciated
Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
How low u going. 9.1 ratio is still good for boost applications??To carry on our conversion from earlier, which combo did you go with in your pistons? I’m trying to see which ones would lower my compression to pare up with my SC and a set of aggressive cams and my stock PI-heads
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Lashes/ chain guides.
Pistons and rods ( should I bore and go bigger ?)
Cams
Valves/springs
Injectors
Main bolt studs ?
Am I missing anything else ?
Pistons- Depends on price range. Cheap is a 4032 piston, but they're less forgiving of detonation. An off the shelf 2618 piston like Manley, Diamond, or even JE is a good choice. If money is no object, Gibtecs offer even more advantage. Standard wrist pins will be fine. Stainless rings is probably overkill, and plasma/moly should be sufficient. I would pick a compression ratio in the low to mid 9s (in conjunction with the heads you have) if you're going to stick to pump gas.
Rods- Manley 4340 H-beams will certainly do the trick. Cheap and plentiful as 03/04 Cobra take outs. For a budget alternative, there's the Boss/Coyote rods. They don't leave as much margin as the H-beams though. ARP 8740 rod bolts are a very good idea.
Cams/valves/springs- that's always a loaded question. You have to pick your cam with your goals and head capabilities, and size springs accordingly. Ported or aftermarket heads will provide more potential and allow for higher RPM operation. And the tradeoff that bigger cams will make driveability down low suffer.
Injectors- 60lb/hr ones will do the trick for pump gas. E85 would be another discussion.
Main bolt studs/head studs- not necessary at this point in the build, but since the stock ones are TTY if you anticipate taking the engine apart and rebuilding another time or two, going ARP can provide a cost savings.
Timing system- Doesn't really require anything, though make sure you've got the metal timing guides and stamped reluctor wheel. Stock lash adjusters and followers are just fine.
Crank- Will your stock crank hold that power? Probably...but it's going to be close. A forged crank would be peace of mind. In a similar thought, now might be a good time to go with billet oil pump gears, or a GT500 pump with billet gears. Not necessary, but good insurance, especially if you're going to make a lot of power and turn high RPM.
For the bore I wouldn't go any bigger than I had to, and stick with stock stroke, unless you're trying to keep it very low RPM.
I will definitely look into getting a better oil pump. I can drop that in when I’m putting the motor back right ??