SVTP-How: Owning and maintaining a used car. Advice wanted!

[Euphoric One]

So I just got a 99 F150 XLT with 100k on the odometer. This is my first used car since I was 18, so I'm trying to figure out what needs to be done and what I should do to maximize the remaining life of the car.

I had the car inspected by an independent (of the deal) Ford dealer, so I have a good idea of what needs to be done immediately. So far, I'm thinking I should obviously get an oil-change and maybe a tune-up?

It needs new rotors and maybe pads. Anyone have any good advice on getting some real good performance brakes? I was looking at the ceramic pads and cross-drilled, slotted rotors on this page. Pricey, but I could use all the braking power I can get.

What else? Plugs and wires? My stepdad recommended paying to get the truck undercoated. Is that worth it? Anything else I should look out for?

Thanks in advance to all SVTP used car owning masters!

 

[thomas91169]

do tune up and change all fluids (Oil, Tranny, Rearend, coolant flush, etc) and replace all filters (oil, fuel, tranny). Maybe get the AC recharged professionally, this will remove any moisture that has accumulated in the system, and replace the lubricant that is inside the system which will increase the longevity of the AC system. On coolant system, replace t-stat and add a bottle of water wetter.

brakes and rotors id just replace, no need to upgrade unless you feel the need to, in which case id say the hell with the slotted/drilled rotors, spend money on a nice set of Hawk HP+ or HPS pads and turn the rotors (or new ones if necessary) and call it a day.

 

[02wingless]

If you do the tune-up yourself, easy with those plugs b/c they are known to blow out of the head.

 

[Euphoric One]

So the cross-drilled and slotted rotors aren't worth it? Do they just last longer or stop better?

 

[Blue Blitz]

Cross drilled are for looks, not worth the cash. If you want PERFORMANCE, get a good blank rotor (not sure if brembo sells a blank for a 99 F150) but a good quality will be just fine. Hawk pads are nice HPS are good HP+ will squeal and be annoying. If you're going for good braking performance, get stainless lines to replace the rubber. Also go with a high temp brake fluid (not necessary but I do on my track car). Fluid will last longer and not break down under multiple hard stops.

 

[VirtualSVT]

I always change all fluids, Filters and Batteries no matter what they said when I bought the vehicle.

That way I know it was done right and have a fresh timetable to start with.

 

[NO-BlkLightning2K]

So the cross-drilled and slotted rotors aren't worth it? Do they just last longer or stop better?

cross drilling is for weight reduction. and the slots are there to give the gases that build up between the pads and rotors a place to go. basically, they're designed for track racing which i'm assuming is something this beast will never do. so save your money.

btw, larger brakes can decrease stopping distance because there is a larger contact area between the pad and the rotor.

 

[Blue Blitz]

cross drilling is for weight reduction. and the slots are there to give the gases that build up between the pads and rotors a place to go. basically, they're designed for track racing which i'm assuming is something this beast will never do. so save your money.

btw, larger brakes can decrease stopping distance because there is a larger contact area between the pad and the rotor.

Correct on the "weight reduction" of drilled. Unfortunately this comes at the cost of stress concentration points for the rotor to crack when heating/cooling. Less mass in the rotor means it heats and cools faster.

Degassing with slots is a myth that most brake companies like to throw out there because it sounds good. Slots ARE beneficial but as said primarily for the track. What they DO is scrape the pad to remove pad deposits ensuring that your brake contact area is free of debris.

Larger brakes can help as well, increased contact patch is part of it but it's also related to the "brake torque" you get from a larger diameter rotor. Like putting a cheater bar on a wrench, if you move the contact of the pad further away from the center you only increase the torque even when keeping the contact patch the same size.

[/rant]
Sorry for the brake rant. Cross drilled rotors are one of my "pet peeves" i guess...

 

[lobra97]

do tune up and change all fluids (Oil, Tranny, Rearend, coolant flush, etc) and replace all filters (oil, fuel, tranny). Maybe get the AC recharged professionally, this will remove any moisture that has accumulated in the system, and replace the lubricant that is inside the system which will increase the longevity of the AC system. On coolant system, replace t-stat and add a bottle of water wetter.

brakes and rotors id just replace, no need to upgrade unless you feel the need to, in which case id say the hell with the slotted/drilled rotors, spend money on a nice set of Hawk HP+ or HPS pads and turn the rotors (or new ones if necessary) and call it a day.

+1 if it isn't broke...don't fix it :banana:

 

[swoosh_stang]

Agree on the yea to Slotted and the nea to cross drilled for rotors.

Pretty much agree with Thomas on everything.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

So the cross-drilled and slotted rotors aren't worth it? Do they just last longer or stop better?

NO!!! in the the OEM sizing you have less area for pad contact. As you can imagine,this does matter much more than trying to turn an F150 into a Ferrari with ducted brake cooling.

The only argument viable for the drilled rotors is bling factor. The only 99 f150s with brake cooling issues seem to be Lightnings that are tracked hard by seasoned drivers. The Ls come with Navi/Expedion pads and rotors, a slightly larger more capable brake.

Ceramic pads are a great performing low dust choice, shop them, don't need to spend a ton of money to get a very nice pad.

The bed in procedure and proper rotor prep are critical.

Carbotech has a write up http://www.ctbrakes.com/ , it is always more memorable when some explains why we are doing this, not just ........do this Carbotech Performance Brakes: Frequently Asked Questions

By the way, I believe your rotors are rotors and hubs, that is one of the reasons they are a little more money.

Make sure you price the Motorcraft version of these rotors at your dealer or local outlet. I could beat the price, but not by much, at an Auto Parts store, and I know the quality is there on Motorcraft stuff.


....

 

[SVTsupremecy]

I agree with thomas91169 as far as maintenance. I would definatly get the oil changed to start. Cheap things you can do yourself are Air Filter/fuel filter...the rest you may want to have a lube shop do (tranny, differential, coolant etc)

 

[Euphoric One]

Thanks for the good advice guys!