supporting cooling mods for 2.8 pulley?

[Storm728]

planning on adding a 2.8 pulley soon. my motor is a pre november head revision build so im a bit concered about the whole tick issue. i have a lfp head cooling mod, 170 reisch tstat ready to go on and was also planning on an afco dual pass h/e. i dont really hit 5th when going wot but better safe than sorry right? suggestions or useful facts anyone has to share would be appreciated!

 

[FiveOhJoe]

Nothing will protect you on a stock motor doing those high speed pulls. It's the sustained heat from being WOT for a few gears combined with too-tight piston to wall clearance. The only way to avoid a piston hitting the wall is to not do those high speed pulls.

You will be fine with the head cooling mod, t-stat, and the Afco heat exhcanger.

I can recommend these...
-Make sure your lower radiator air defelctor is in place. It is responsible for creating suction to pull air through the radiator. New ones can be had here(as well as the clips) Mustang Radiator Air Deflector (94-04) - LatemodelRestoration.com
-A bigger IC tank can slow down heat soaking of the IC fluid. You can also stuff ice into it for track events
-A JLT CAI will ensure you are always sucking in air that is close to ambient.
-LFP hood vents will help get hot air out of the engine bay. True Forge makes a nice set too.
-Get rid of the hood blanket. Allows more air to flow around the engine bay(controversial, but it does no harm so why not?)

 

[Storm728]

Nothing will protect you on a stock motor doing those high speed pulls. It's the sustained heat from being WOT for a few gears combined with too-tight piston to wall clearance. The only way to avoid a piston hitting the wall is to not do those high speed pulls.

You will be fine with the head cooling mod, t-stat, and the Afco heat exhcanger.

I can recommend these...
-Make sure your lower radiator air defelctor is in place. It is responsible for creating suction to pull air through the radiator. New ones can be had here(as well as the clips) Mustang Radiator Air Deflector (94-04) - LatemodelRestoration.com
-A bigger IC tank can slow down heat soaking of the IC fluid. You can also stuff ice into it for track events
-A JLT CAI will ensure you are always sucking in air that is close to ambient.
-LFP hood vents will help get hot air out of the engine bay. True Forge makes a nice set too.
-Get rid of the hood blanket. Allows more air to flow around the engine bay(controversial, but it does no harm so why not?)

sorry if i wasnt clear but i meant i do not hit 5th gear during wot pulls. just fearful of the tick because i developed it on my old mach

 

[FiveOhJoe]

It can happen if you do 4th. Stop at 3rd

 

[racebronco2]

It can happen if you do 4th. Stop at 3rd

Yes it can happen in forth but only if you stay wot trying to top out 4th. If you are drag racing and are running 4.10's it's not going to happen in less than 13 seconds.

 

[Storm728]

Yes it can happen in forth but only if you stay wot trying to top out 4th. If you are drag racing and are running 4.10's it's not going to happen in less than 13 seconds.

is tracking the car just as detrimental or risky?

 

[Tractionless1]

KC > Aftermarket HE

 

[Midnight_Cobra]

I have a Fluidyne Radiator, 160tstat, aftermarket H/E, and my engine temps are around 170, I've never been above 200.

But Killer Chiller if you want the absolute coldest charge temp.

 

[Storm728]

KC > Aftermarket HE

I have a Fluidyne Radiator, 160tstat, aftermarket H/E, and my engine temps are around 170, I've never been above 200.

But Killer Chiller if you want the absolute coldest charge temp.

the newest gen kc still allows for the use of a/c correct?