I used an Evolution Motorsports X braced subframe connector as my first chassis stiffening mod, it was a huge improvement over the factory's mickey mouse subframe connectors. I also liked having the driveshaft loop as part of the X brace. I followed that up with a strut tower brace, and was also pleased with the results. A lot (almost all) of the dash's creaks, squeaks and groans are gone with this addition. I also noticed a big improvement in handling with the stiffening.
subframes on an 03 what are the advantages?
- Thread starter SonicBlueFTW
- Start date
maximum full lengths goin on this week or next week
they meet nasa rules for ai and aix. as for scca there are so many classes that they couldent possibly build one cage to do it all. so for scca they will make it to your specs. in fact the a47 guys are building an ai car right now.
Should've been my first mod. :thumbsup:
Mine just went on last Sat., along with Billetflow IRS brace.
If the car needs to have weight on all four tires besides a drive on style lift how can you put these suckers on? I have a 2 post lift I could lift it at it's four jacking points. Ohter than using a drive on ramp I guess I could dig a pit and have my buddy drive it over the top
how long does it take to install the mm full subframe. what kind of work is involved in installing these
cpu77 said:If the car needs to have weight on all four tires besides a drive on style lift how can you put these suckers on? I have a 2 post lift I could lift it at it's four jacking points. Ohter than using a drive on ramp I guess I could dig a pit and have my buddy drive it over the top
You need to have the car's weight on the suspension (prefferably the wheels), but you also should have the car as level as possible. Any unevenness present in the chassis when you weld in subframe connectors will be made permanent. This isn't as critical with bolt in subframe connectors, since they will eventually shift a little, or can be loosened and re-tightened to correct any unevenness.
WIECH said:
These need to be welded in, it took about 3-4 hours total due to grinding down the areas to be welded, welding them in place and then painting the necessary areas afterwards. As for jacking purposes, we were able to put jack stands under loading points in the suspension as if the tires were on the ground instead of using ramps.
I have talked to a couple of different shops in Texas and California and they say it doesn't mattter if the car is on a drive on lift or a body lift as long as its level.
I could lift it on my 2 post lift. Then stack sinder blocks under each tire then let it down.
Weight has to be evenly distributed on all 4-wheels (ramp lift the way to go) or you may weld a twist into the frame. Do it right the first time. You don't want to take 'er down off the chassis lift after the install and have your doors binding. FLSFC's...major improvement in chassis stiffness.
something cool about MMFLs are that they will also protect your 'off-road' mid pipe from speed bumps and other junk if your car is lowered..
MM full length...
I had the MM full length subframe connectors installed a few months ago. HUGE difference! The car rides better and feels more solid at "high" speeds. As a bonus, wheel hop is almost nonexistant in first gear and very slight in second. Get them! :beer:
I had the MM full length subframe connectors installed a few months ago. HUGE difference! The car rides better and feels more solid at "high" speeds. As a bonus, wheel hop is almost nonexistant in first gear and very slight in second. Get them! :beer:
10thAnnvCobra said:
I noticed this also, with these and IRS brace installed, my hop dropped to less than half of what it used to be when it is cold out.
Do it right the first time... get the full length weld ins.98tacoma said:
grimreefer said:
Yup... just what he said!
iv'e only used the full MM full length. on my "99 GT i ordered standards but they shipped full length! in hindsight it was a most fortunate mistake in my favor and what i installed on my cobra. HTH98tacoma said:
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