Subframe connectors?

Rygy04

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Coming from a terminator vert I realized the importance of subframes after I put them on. It totally transformed the car to a much more solid feeling machine.

I have a vert 07 with more power coming this spring. Shooting for 550-575.

My car is 95% street and the rest road course track days 1 or 2 times seasonly.

Any advise on subframes? Needed on these chassis? Which brand?

I looked for other threads but with no prevail.!

Opinions from first hand experience would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks!

Thanks!
 

me32

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there not a have to need like pre 05 cars but they are nice to have. but it adds jacking points an toughen up the car some
 

GT Premi

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... it adds jacking points...

Really?? I've always been trying to avoid putting the jack on them for fear of snapping a weld.

OP, they aren't crucial. The S197 chassis is VERY stiff. The only reason I added some was because I knew I'd be adding power, and I want everything possible to help divert power to the rear wheels. I also knew I was going to be changing the suspension, and I wanted the suspension doing more work than the chassis in the corners.
 

Rygy04

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Thanks for the input...

Still not sure if I will be doing them.

Do you know which manufacturer most recommended?
 

GT Premi

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BMR is by far the most popular manufacturer for subframe connectors on Mustangs. However, there are many other companies that make them. I've had satisfactory performance with BMR in the past, so that's why I chose them this time, too.
 

19COBRA93

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Really?? I've always been trying to avoid putting the jack on them for fear of snapping a weld.

There are specific subframes that add "jacking rails". It's a rail that ties right in to the pinch weld down the rocker panel. It allows you to literally jack up the car from any point along that rail without damaging the factory pinch weld, as well as adding stiffness to the chassis.
 

me32

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Really?? I've always been trying to avoid putting the jack on them for fear of snapping a weld.

OP, they aren't crucial. The S197 chassis is VERY stiff. The only reason I added some was because I knew I'd be adding power, and I want everything possible to help divert power to the rear wheels. I also knew I was going to be changing the suspension, and I wanted the suspension doing more work than the chassis in the corners.

if your in fear of your welds breaking i would not use that welder. there should be zero issue of the welds. i use mine for jacking points all the time. thats the best thing about the subframes
 

GT Premi

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if your in fear of your welds breaking i would not use that welder. there should be zero issue of the welds. i use mine for jacking points all the time. thats the best thing about the subframes

The fear is from the fact that the connecters are for chassis bracing, not load bearing. And the fact that I'm not a welder or metallurgist and have no clue what the breaking point would be for the welds.
 

me32

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Those are the same design as the BMRs, except BMR uses all box beams. And you use them as jack points? Interesting.

The solid beam on the subframe are strong an perfect jacking points. Never had any issues.
 

GT Premi

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That's good to know because it's a time killer trying to get the floor jacks lined up with the pinch weld jack points (without hitting the subframe bar) all the time!
 

Rygy04

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Good stuff guys...

My tuner/shop recommends their custom X brace and K member and to void the subframes. They custom fab a stiffer X brace for the rear and that welds to the subframe with their K member....? They said they have done tons of them with very positive results. Stiffer rear end, less chatter and hop, and rear bite.

Since mine is a vert they really recommended it over any sub frames.

They did the custom subframes on my 03 Terminator and it made 100% difference.

Any experience with X bracing and K members?
 

GT Premi

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Good stuff guys...

My tuner/shop recommends their custom X brace and K member and to void the subframes. ...

Since mine is a vert they really recommended it over any sub frames.

...

Of course they do! They're trying to sell you something. I didn't even know that X-brace thing was still around. I remember a heated debate over that thing years ago when it first came out. If I recall, the general consensus was that it was no better than subframe connecters (and probably worse), and added too much unnecessary weight because of those giant, building-grade steel beams they used to construct it. That is, if it's the same X-brace I'm thinking about. The argument was over on MustangForums.
 

Rygy04

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Of course they do! They're trying to sell you something. I didn't even know that X-brace thing was still around. I remember a heated debate over that thing years ago when it first came out. If I recall, the general consensus was that it was no better than subframe connecters (and probably worse), and added too much unnecessary weight because of those giant, building-grade steel beams they used to construct it. That is, if it's the same X-brace I'm thinking about. The argument was over on MustangForums.

Ya I am concerned about weight for sure.... I do not know their design per say.I'd like to think they aren't trying to upsell me something I don't need.... It's not their style, they could have had many other chances to try and scam me other ways when they were honest.... But ya never really know for sure. I dont think they would go through the trouble of custom fab work for an extra 300 bucks.... I'm just looking for a rigid vert platform I can continue to build on for many many years to come and this is what they suggest. I asked them today and they said the chassis is stiff enough without the extra subframe connectors but the x and k brace help rear the most....

Think there blowing smoke or giving me their honest opinion with their research to back it up...? I know there house gt500 has them that runs mid 9's and won drag week a few years ago....
 

evasive

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I just ended up using the Kenny Brown matrix system. Seemed more robust than anything else out there.


2013 TVS powered
 

GT Premi

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Rygy04

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Well I pulled the trigger on the recommended ones as seen in the link above.

Overall cost is a hair more since there are two components.

I will advise once the build is complete.

I talked to them directly and they claim their design is specifically for the cowl shake, which I do notice on our shitty michigan roads....
 

SteveG@Lethal

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Coming from a terminator vert I realized the importance of subframes after I put them on. It totally transformed the car to a much more solid feeling machine.

I have a vert 07 with more power coming this spring. Shooting for 550-575.

My car is 95% street and the rest road course track days 1 or 2 times seasonly.

Any advise on subframes? Needed on these chassis? Which brand?

I looked for other threads but with no prevail.!

Opinions from first hand experience would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks!

Thanks!

Subframes are always recommend. These cars are still a unibody and still have a lot of flex. Covertables more. Why they come with braces in the back.

I'm proof they work and hold the chassie together. I'm still alive. When everything on the car folded on itself, the main structure stayed in tact.

We like to use the Stifflers FIT system. It is a ladder style frame with the prep work already done and ready for weld. They weight less than 25lbs each

2005-13 Mustang GT / GT500 / BOSS / V6 Sub Frame Connecters






To show that these cars are still a uni-body design and nothing special, jack up the car on the pitch point and try to open that door, You will notice it takes a little more to open it. Your rear tire also goes in the air at an angel where with subframes, it keeps the structure lined up and a even raise without flex.
 

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