MM e-mailed me last week saying they didn't have a 4-point k-member brace for the '03 Cobra, what part number are you using. Thanks.
Subframe Connectors Recommendations
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MM e-mailed me last week saying they didn't have a 4-point k-member brace for the '03 Cobra, what part number are you using. Thanks.
I have MMKB4-4 on mine.
For what its worth I had max motorsports full lenghts welded in at a local muffler shop last saturday. Very happy with them. The beast seems to corner flatter and some rear end squeaks have disappeared. However, be aware that the ride will become notably harsher. I can feel every bump and tar strip in the road. I can get used to it as its now about how I expected a high performance car should be. I wonder how it will be when I go from the rubber to the polyurethane IRS bushings.
Just had my MM full lengths welded in, and the difference is not subtle.
Steering is more alive, less creaks and rattles. I don't think I would call the ride firmer; rather it is more communicative. If anyone thinks the ride deteriorates with subframe connectors, the only possible explanation was that your unibody was twisting, which really is not good! There obviously is no effect on spring rates. Remember old British cars (or current Morgans!) had most of their suspension in the chassis.
I paid for 4 hours labor to properly weld and carefully paint the installation. I think that's reasonable. The connectors are only as good as the installation, which costs more than the connectors.
Steering is more alive, less creaks and rattles. I don't think I would call the ride firmer; rather it is more communicative. If anyone thinks the ride deteriorates with subframe connectors, the only possible explanation was that your unibody was twisting, which really is not good! There obviously is no effect on spring rates. Remember old British cars (or current Morgans!) had most of their suspension in the chassis.
I paid for 4 hours labor to properly weld and carefully paint the installation. I think that's reasonable. The connectors are only as good as the installation, which costs more than the connectors.
up here in Toronto Joe DaSilva (of Pro 5.0 fame) makes his own connectors. Solid steel, oval shaped , about 3 inches wide by 1 inch thick (I didn't actually measure) full length, with seat connectors. Welded on, $100 CDN, plus installation. They work very well. I had them on my 99 GT vert, and with 60,000 miles on it it was still very tight.
On the Cobra, we replaced the factory ones(they look like toys) and I could immediately feel the difference. Well worth it, even for street driving and no racing.
I'm also going to get a strut tower brace.
I swear, the ride is smoother, the car tracks better, and some of the driveline clunk is gone. And going over bumps the car is firmer, with less cowl shake.
Steve
On the Cobra, we replaced the factory ones(they look like toys) and I could immediately feel the difference. Well worth it, even for street driving and no racing.
I'm also going to get a strut tower brace.
I swear, the ride is smoother, the car tracks better, and some of the driveline clunk is gone. And going over bumps the car is firmer, with less cowl shake.
Steve
I think Postban's sf connectors look awesome and I think I just wanna wait untill MM brings the strut tower brace to the market to order.
Sorry I gotta ask, but do they REALLY make that big of a difference?
The reason I ask is because my uncle just bought a 67 vert and the frame is caved in badly. Sub-frame connectors would have prevented that right?
Sorry I gotta ask, but do they REALLY make that big of a difference?
The reason I ask is because my uncle just bought a 67 vert and the frame is caved in badly. Sub-frame connectors would have prevented that right?
Yes they do. I don't know a lot about pre-Fox body Mustangs, but doubt they were much stronger. If you take a look at a Fox body Mustang that was driven hard or drag raced without subframes it will be very apparent. I have seen Fox body cars that were road raced that actually got shorter from the hard braking to the point the doors would close right anymore. Drag cars the were actually permanently twisted and the trunks wouldn't close right any more. The SN-95 chassis is substantially more rigid then the pre-SN-95 cars, but they still need to have subframe connectors to properly connect the front and rear portions of the car.
I would expect it to also add some safety to the vehicle if you are in an accident. I would expect it to keep the passenger compartment more rigid thereby making it less likely that it would accordion on itself.
I have tried the KB brace and the Steeda (as a joke, turns out it was) and they did not do anything for the car. Unless MM comes up with a different brace configuration and mount points then I would skip this part on our car. The money is better spent elsewhere and from all indications over the past couple of months the $99 four point K-Member brace did more for the front end than any strut brace I have used on a SN-95 platform. Just my opinion (buy the MM full lengths as a side note). 
Are the subframe connectors a good jacking point or are the too far under to get a jack to them?
Originally posted by Bingo13
I have tried the KB brace and the Steeda (as a joke, turns out it was) and they did not do anything for the car. Unless MM comes up with a different brace configuration and mount points then I would skip this part on our car. The money is better spent elsewhere and from all indications over the past couple of months the $99 four point K-Member brace did more for the front end than any strut brace I have used on a SN-95 platform. Just my opinion (buy the MM full lengths as a side note).
Why dont u get together with some mustangs in ur area?
Check out who has what types of sub & see it for ur self.
I personally saw Andorion's MM Subs & that was just quality work.
Ud have to see to believe...but id see it before u actualy get it welded on. MM Subs look better also.
i have no idea which is the best with my limited knowledge, but after doing some research & asking around...
i really like my MM FL SFCs, but didn't like the installation expense :bash:
one shop was pushing a particular brand but when i showed them the MM FL SFCs, he gave me his honest opinion & said, i'd get those MM FL SFCs ... that did it for me.
i really like my MM FL SFCs, but didn't like the installation expense :bash:
one shop was pushing a particular brand but when i showed them the MM FL SFCs, he gave me his honest opinion & said, i'd get those MM FL SFCs ... that did it for me.
in fact, i think these MM FL SFC made the difference between my car being totalled or not when that lady ran a red light and right into my car!
i'm convinced that MM FL SFCs saved my car from being totalled ... and saved me many thousands of dollars, cuz you know how much "fair value" is unfair. i would have been many thousands of dollars in the whole!
SFCs should be your first mod.
i'm convinced that MM FL SFCs saved my car from being totalled ... and saved me many thousands of dollars, cuz you know how much "fair value" is unfair. i would have been many thousands of dollars in the whole!
SFCs should be your first mod.
Bingo was talking about strut tower braces not subframes. We both have basically the same suspension now the only difference is spring rates his are a little softer. He has full length MM subframes.
Sorry i dont think i should of put the quote of Bingo's on there.
Just trying to say that, once u see the Sub's from different companies u can totally tell who has quality parts. :thumbsup:
With out u showing me the pics of ur subs i would of been stupid & went with Steeda again....thank god i didnt. :beer:
Bingo also seems to know a great deal of stuff...but i think he's like a billionare or some thing?
I wish I could claim that then I would not stay up late at night trying to figure out a way to pay for the next mod. ;-)
Did good at the cards tonight so maybe I can finish that differental cooler now.
I was talking about the strut tower braces. Still convinced they are more show than substance on this platform. I will wait for MM or Griggs to see if they can make a difference with their upcoming designs. The two point Steeda brace was just like the two point Dinan on my M3, a great looking piece of weight that you always hit when working on the car.
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Originally posted by Bingo13
I wish I could claim that then I would not stay up late at night trying to figure out a way to pay for the next mod. ;-)
Did good at the cards tonight so maybe I can finish that differental cooler now.
Bingo, Right ;-) we wont say no more.
A M3, A 03Cobra, Testing all brands of tires, Rims, 2 Houses with 2 wifes......J/K.
What type of card game by chance? Texas Holdem?
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I just wanted to jump in here and clear one thing up so people don't go away taking this "round tubing offers more strength" comment the wrong way.
Round tubing of a given size will be stronger than rectangular tubing (or square for that matter) of the same size overall in all directions, BUT we are not talking the same size, thus I would argue (fugure of speach, not trying to start anything) that the round in the above example is not stronger is the direction that stresses are actually applied to the connector.
The chassis flex we are trying to minimize is verticle, not horizontal. If we were trying to correct for both, I would agree that round could/would be stronger. The MM subframes are rectangular, and thus are giving the added strength in the direction that that stresses are actually applied to the subframes. This ignores that fact that a round connector would have very little contact area to weld to the subframe compared to the rectangular.
Hope that makes sense, since I am terrible at explaining things. :bored:
Brian:beer:
I'm with you on that Brian.
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Thank God ive found this forum....cant go there no more.
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