Street Tire Traction

James Calhoun

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I run both a 275 pro and a 325/40/18 m&h radial. Car is a 79mm tvs with 2c converter,625hp on the dyno on a 82mm and we can dead hook it on the street on either tire unprepped road with a small burnout. Car cut's 1.5 60 ft's. But i do have a full suspension car that i can adjust. I usually run the m&h tires for daily with no issues. Have a set with over 8000 miles and many passes on them. I bought the pros to try and honestly on my car i could not tell a difference on the street,but i play on the street so it is set up to hook.
 

noldevin

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Wow thanks for your great advice. Guess I am pretty new to the drag race thing. Only been doing it since 1967. I am certain you have been down the track a lot more times than I have. Gotta love you. Tire quality you say. Every MT tire I have owned took a ton of weight to balance. Returned a set to AM because both were way out of round. One of the pair had a steel thread sticking out of the tire.

lol I wasn't even talking about my advice. you're ignoring just about everyone else too. everyone is saying suspension but you're still stuck on tires. Meanwhile you have cut stock springs, which leads me to guess... stock shocks too?
You don't have to drag race for 50 years to know how to set up a modern car properly. Proper spring rates, decent shocks, and some adjustability go a long way.
 

cjd223

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I may just park my GT for a while and go semi old school. I can get this car cheap. I know how to make a G body hook. Had a '87 Buick T-Type.
 

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Scott8583

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Joe your old! Lol! You clearly forgotten how slow t types are. Those were 14's stock, maybe 12's if you dumped some money into them.

As far as stock suspension with a auto/TVS is actually pretty good. I know several people (including myself) that have went 1.3 60's on stock suspension. A couple of them even had the front sway bar on... But you can't go to the track on $12 shit track prep days.
 

T's03GT

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I have come to the conclusion that nothing will hook on the street. My MT ET Street Pros certainly will not. A TVS on E85 is not street dig friendly. My car is lowered about 1 1/2" in the rear by cutting the rear springs. I have Whiteline LCAs. Tried the BMR relocation brackets to no avail. Guess I will have to stick with roll racing or just buy some Hoosier slicks.

Lotta factors come into play when hooking on the street. Pro's will most certainly dead hook from a dig/low roll on the streets. I have seen multiple 4 digit power cars doing it. You also have to consider asphalt vs concrete, road temp, tire temp, pressure, etc.. Your car should have no issue doing it on a nice concrete road. Don't get Hoosier slicks either, they will be worse more than likely. They work for a bolt on car, but like has been said, they are too soft.

OP-there isn't a better hooking radial tire than et pro, you stated you lowered your car by cutting the factory spring-this works to make it shorter- doesn't make it better- you change the spring rate- Did you install a quality upper adjustable control arm/and mount- this makes a tremendous difference in traction and proper loading of the suspension- And if you don't have a adjustable upper how did you adjust your pinion angle after the car was lowered? and bmr relo's do work when they are installed, I know my low on torgue centri isn't a TV's low rpm torgue monster but I DO HAVE several 1.40's and 1.41's and my tune is far from dialed in. I spent the 120 bucks on the bmr #12's rear springs only and they lowered the car 1.4-1.5 inches- front is untouched spring wise and is has a nice stance- but I also run a 28.4" tall front tire. Like someone else stated earlier in this tread suspension needs to work as a system. I run no front sway bar and have a super stiff rear sway bar as well thou. Best of luck with hooking up.

This. I know of a few centri cars that have gotten out of the hole from a dig on PD blower cars, they can hit hard from a dig with the right setup. Like yours.

Rear tires aren't your problem... Your tune has aggressive timing meant for a well prepped track. Hoosiers don't have a stiff enough sidewall for our heavy cars. Do you have skinnies on the front or boat anchors? Your car is nose heavy, play around and add 100#'s in the trunk (dog food, sand bags, what ever). After your tuner takes some timing out of the Hit! You'll never hook from a dig if your not doing a burnout also...

+1

OP, what is your timing on the hit?
 

cjd223

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Actually my T-type ran 11's. We burned our own "chips". Had to run 108 octane to pull 28lbs of boost in 1st gear. We locked up the torque converter in 2nd gear. Pulled timing and boost as mechanical advantage was lost going through the gears. Went through the traps at 23-24 lbs of boost. Just one of many cars I wish I had kept. Hopefully the weather will corporate this week so I can data log.
 

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