Street Tire Traction

cjd223

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I have come to the conclusion that nothing will hook on the street. My MT ET Street Pros certainly will not. A TVS on E85 is not street dig friendly. My car is lowered about 1 1/2" in the rear by cutting the rear springs. I have Whiteline LCAs. Tried the BMR relocation brackets to no avail. Guess I will have to stick with roll racing or just buy some Hoosier slicks.
 

GBCoyote

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Drop the pressure and adjust shocks. It'll help a bit. For power levels like ours, you really need a drag dedicated tire to hook at anything below 20.
 

demas

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So, it's seems like you know the answer already :)
Share it with us
 

noldevin

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Asks for advice... ignores all advice and decides to do his own thing anyway... Gotta love it.

I've heard bad things about M&H tire quality.
 

The Beast 2014

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I agree with looking at suspension as a whole. I run 3:15 and still can spin on MT ET Pros on an unprepped street or track but it just depends what you are trying to accomplish. I care more about having it just right for a prepped track. On the street I feather the gas pedal to help with traction.

Ask the BMR guys, they have been very helpful to me and every adjustment matters.
 

Derek@Lethal

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Adjustable upper and adjustable shocks can help a lot. Pinion angle can have a lot to do with how a tire is "shocked" when you nail the throttle and the shocks help with planting the rear instead of squatting so hard and unloading the the rest of the suspension. Like suggested, the BMR guys can help you with your questions to get the car dialed in. When it comes time to place an order, don't hesitate to contact us! If you have any other questions, let us know.

Thanks
 

cjd223

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Wow thanks for your great advice. Guess I am pretty new to the drag race thing. Only been doing it since 1967. I am certain you have been down the track a lot more times than I have. Gotta love you. Tire quality you say. Every MT tire I have owned took a ton of weight to balance. Returned a set to AM because both were way out of round. One of the pair had a steel thread sticking out of the tire.
Asks for advice... ignores all advice and decides to do his own thing anyway... Gotta love it.

I've heard bad things about M&H tire quality.
 
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cjd223

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I have seen folks throw money at their cars over the years. I have done a 1.52 60' on a so so track. I feel that my car should do 1.40s on a good track. Some that have responded to my original post seem to have short memories. I am talking about street traction, not track traction. It is a shame Nitto does not offer a great drag tire. My 305/45-18 555Rs took very little weight to balance. Car actually did a 1.59 60' with them on a well prepped track.
 
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The Beast 2014

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Wow thanks for your great advice. Guess I am pretty new to the drag race thing. Only been doing it since 1967. I am certain you have been down the track a lot more times than I have. Gotta love you. Tire quality you say. Every MT tire I have owned took a ton of weight to balance. Returned a set to AM because both were way out of round. One of the pair had a steel thread sticking out of the tire.

Fair enough, in your OP you don't actually ask a question, just make a bunch of statements so I guess no one really needed to respond. I guess if I had been racing since 1967 I wouldn't want to ask anyone anything either.
 

cjd223

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Beast, I have found the best way to get any kind of traction on the street from a dig with my car is to use Traction Control in 1st gear. As soon as it starts hooking I turn it off before it shifts into 2nd. At the track I leave TC off. I don't do much racing during the summer months. 95+ temp and 3,000+ DA is not conducive to good numbers. I am hoping to see a 9 this fall when it cools down.
 

bunits19714

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OP-there isn't a better hooking radial tire than et pro, you stated you lowered your car by cutting the factory spring-this works to make it shorter- doesn't make it better- you change the spring rate- Did you install a quality upper adjustable control arm/and mount- this makes a tremendous difference in traction and proper loading of the suspension- And if you don't have a adjustable upper how did you adjust your pinion angle after the car was lowered? and bmr relo's do work when they are installed, I know my low on torgue centri isn't a TV's low rpm torgue monster but I DO HAVE several 1.40's and 1.41's and my tune is far from dialed in. I spent the 120 bucks on the bmr #12's rear springs only and they lowered the car 1.4-1.5 inches- front is untouched spring wise and is has a nice stance- but I also run a 28.4" tall front tire. Like someone else stated earlier in this tread suspension needs to work as a system. I run no front sway bar and have a super stiff rear sway bar as well thou. Best of luck with hooking up.
 

Scott8583

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Rear tires aren't your problem... Your tune has aggressive timing meant for a well prepped track. Hoosiers don't have a stiff enough sidewall for our heavy cars. Do you have skinnies on the front or boat anchors? Your car is nose heavy, play around and add 100#'s in the trunk (dog food, sand bags, what ever). After your tuner takes some timing out of the Hit! You'll never hook from a dig if your not doing a burnout also...
 

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