New mods in sig. Open loop tuning went great, now in closed loop adaptive off I have a 10% split between banks. Bank two is about perfect and bank one is reading close to 10-12% leaner, wideband is in bank 2. Doesn't idle the best, kind of stutters and pops a little like it is very midly cammed. It idled like this before the whipple though when I initially went to 80lb injectors and pullied/ported eaton. It was dyno tuned by a shop and they said it was just the BR7EF spark plugs making it idle weird. Well changing to tr6's didn't help the idle, never thought it was a big deal until now that I have the whipple/return system and am tuning myself. All the way up to 5500rpm the split is still the same as it is at idle, on decel bank 1 is commanding .75-.79 and i can smell the unburned fuel. I have tightened the midpipe good at both manifolds, and checked for vac leaks with starter fluid under the hood. Tomorrow I will try switching the O2 sensors from bank to bank to see if it is a sensor. Last thing I can think after that is getting a smoke test done. I thought if it was a leak of any kind it would get less severe as rpms went up? Really wanting to switch to id1000s to get rid of these 80's but don't want to spend the money or pull the blower again if i don't have to. Any ideas?
STFTs off by 10%
- Thread starter WaffleMan
- Start date
Deep 6 the 80s
yeah i say ditch the 80s while you're not too far into tuning it LOL. they suck monkey compared to the id1000s.
on a side note, you can tell it to decel in open loop to keep it from adding a bunch of fuel.. that or see if your decel fuel shut off is active.
on a side note, you can tell it to decel in open loop to keep it from adding a bunch of fuel.. that or see if your decel fuel shut off is active.
Few options:
Just run it in open loop all the time and dial it in so close manually to your wideband that you don't really need it to be in closed loop.
Limit the amount of correction to fueling the 02 sensor readings are allowed to have.
Adjust the closed loop fueling tables manually so that you smooth out bank to bank problems. Which is a good option if you just have issues in a small load window or want to tune for different bank to bank combustion characteristics instead of just going with an open loop tune.
Just run it in open loop all the time and dial it in so close manually to your wideband that you don't really need it to be in closed loop.
Limit the amount of correction to fueling the 02 sensor readings are allowed to have.
Adjust the closed loop fueling tables manually so that you smooth out bank to bank problems. Which is a good option if you just have issues in a small load window or want to tune for different bank to bank combustion characteristics instead of just going with an open loop tune.
If it were me I'd have the injectors checked/cleaned for peace of mind. I used a popular guy recommend on here. Search Eric Derr. He only charges $50 and you pay shipping one way.
Post the results when you get the IDs in, with no other changes to the tune besides the new injector values.
Did you scale the injector data in your 80lb tune?
Did you scale the injector data in your 80lb tune?
ID1000s are in and I used CJ428mach's tune to start it up with. STFT's are still 6-7% off everywhere in rpm range, I'm out of ideas. I checked all my plugs after finding out about the split originally and they all looked the same/looked good.
So even if it was a intake to head gasket on passenger side that was damaged, wouldn't the split get smaller as rpms went up since the leak would be static?
So even if it was a intake to head gasket on passenger side that was damaged, wouldn't the split get smaller as rpms went up since the leak would be static?
Sub'd
I would think the leak would be vacuum dependent rather than RPM. Under boost it should'nt be sucking in air at all if it's from the manifold since it's positive pressure at that point.
I'm having very similar symptoms haven't gotten around to trouble shooting it yet. Lambda is off .09-.05 at idle but only off <.005 in OL/WOT.
I would think the leak would be vacuum dependent rather than RPM. Under boost it should'nt be sucking in air at all if it's from the manifold since it's positive pressure at that point.
I'm having very similar symptoms haven't gotten around to trouble shooting it yet. Lambda is off .09-.05 at idle but only off <.005 in OL/WOT.
Last edited:
Any updates on this issue?
Just curious if you found the issue.
Just curious if you found the issue.
Only way to tell if its truly running lean on one side would be to have dual widebands with no exhaust leaks running in open loop. Otherwise there are a lot of factors that affect closed loop fueling.
I replaced the driver's side O2 and that seems bring them closer. The passenger side is still about 3% leaner but I think replacing that sensor too would help next oil change when I'm under I'll switch it. The new sensor seem to switch fast and be more stable in general (think the ones I were using were original so 180k). You can get OE NTK sensors through Advanced for $40 bucks or so with a coupon so far something that has such an impact on closed loop it's a no brainer. If it's fine OL but a split CL I would think that would point to the O2s, but it's wired it didn't follow the switch.
As far as the ideal I have a Dragon setup and adjusted the stop to get it so that it would idle where I wanted it at 25% IAC. Got the air past the blade value closer and that all helped a lot. Also I reduced the idle spark gain by 5% which all seemed to get the idle to settle get more stable. Also switched to TR7IX with the huge stock gap (.37ish) and that really cleaned up idle and part throttle from the .28 TR6s. I found forcing the IAC to 25-30% then adjusting the blade until it idled where I wanted it helped my idle a bunch.
I had 60s and switched to 80s, so I wouldn't think it's the 80s. Are you using the values Ford provides?
Waffle man is right I have dual widebands at pretty much identical location on each side. Makes it easier to pin point the problem.
As far as the ideal I have a Dragon setup and adjusted the stop to get it so that it would idle where I wanted it at 25% IAC. Got the air past the blade value closer and that all helped a lot. Also I reduced the idle spark gain by 5% which all seemed to get the idle to settle get more stable. Also switched to TR7IX with the huge stock gap (.37ish) and that really cleaned up idle and part throttle from the .28 TR6s. I found forcing the IAC to 25-30% then adjusting the blade until it idled where I wanted it helped my idle a bunch.
I had 60s and switched to 80s, so I wouldn't think it's the 80s. Are you using the values Ford provides?
Waffle man is right I have dual widebands at pretty much identical location on each side. Makes it easier to pin point the problem.
Last edited:
Ya I still need to put my wideband into the other side and see if it's off at all at wot. But the car idles great, runs great, and is a blast to drive
Last edited:
Users who are viewing this thread
