Steering Rack Leak

[Taz]

After looking at this pic with the updated sleeves it looks like mine might be cut too much. Should they come out this far?

Not my car

No, they should not stick out past the front of the K-member, but look at the back of the sleeve in that picture. You can see that it is not seated against the back of the K.

The only way to tell if the sleeves have been cut to the correct lengths is to look at them in position without the steering rack blocking your view. You need to remove the bottom pinch bolt from the steering shaft, slide the steering shaft back away from the stub on the rack, and pull or pry the rack away from the K-member to provide an unobstructed view of the front of the K. Then, you'll be able to clearly see if the sleeves are the correct lengths.

The clamp has slipped off your steering rack boot because the boot is buggered up. Your driver side boot is not intact, either. It is also buggered up. Your boots should look like this ...

 

[Jefe]

The only way to tell if the sleeves have been cut to the correct lengths is to look at them in position without the steering rack blocking your view. You need to remove the bottom pinch bolt from the steering shaft, slide the steering shaft back away from the stub on the rack, and pull or pry the rack away from the K-member to provide an unobstructed view of the front of the K. Then, you'll be able to clearly see if the sleeves are the correct lengths.

So that means that even if the rack was in place, the sleeve doesnt come through with the bolt through the back washer the bushings kit came with?

Without being able to see the sleeve does this look right? The sleeve sit flush on the back of the K and comes right up to that washer and theres maybe 1/64" of movement at all between them

 

[Taz]

So that means that even if the rack was in place, the sleeve doesnt come through with the bolt through the back washer the bushings kit came with?

Without being able to see the sleeve does this look right? The sleeve sit flush on the back of the K and comes right up to that washer and theres maybe 1/64" of movement at all between them

No, the sleeve isn't supposed to extend past the front of the K-member. In fact, it's supposed to be slightly recessed into the sheetmetal, but still captured by the hole in the front of the K.

I believe you're seeing the inside face of the back half of the bushing in that photo, not a washer. You can't tell anything by looking at that photo other than the back half of the bushing is present and accounted for.

 

[Jefe]

No, the sleeve isn't supposed to extend past the front of the K-member. In fact, it's supposed to be slightly recessed into the sheetmetal, but still captured by the hole in the front of the K.

I believe you're seeing the inside face of the back half of the bushing in that photo, not a washer. You can't tell anything by looking at that photo other than the back half of the bushing is present and accounted for.

Thats exactly what Im seeing. The back bushing that goes into the rack. And the sleeve comes right up against it. So it sounds like my sleeves are fine. Wish they werent so I would know thats what caused my problem...

My cousin is coming over for the install Saturday and hes the head service tech at BMW so he might be able to see what other problems I have down there.

Just looking through the install, will the new rack come with all this? And Autozone/Checker rents the tie rod tool?

And it says MERCON® Multi-Purpose ATF XT-2-QDX or MERCON® equivalent. Mercon V work? How much fluid is in the entire system? I might just flush the whole system while im at it. Im hoping someone topped the reservoir off with the wrong fluid and thats what cause the seals to leak over time

 

[Taz]

Thats exactly what Im seeing. The back bushing that goes into the rack. And the sleeve comes right up against it. So it sounds like my sleeves are fine. Wish they werent so I would know thats what caused my problem...

My cousin is coming over for the install Saturday and hes the head service tech at BMW so he might be able to see what other problems I have down there.

Just looking through the install, will the new rack come with all this? And Autozone/Checker rents the tie rod tool?

And it says MERCON® Multi-Purpose ATF XT-2-QDX or MERCON® equivalent. Mercon V work? How much fluid is in the entire system? I might just flush the whole system while im at it. Im hoping someone topped the reservoir off with the wrong fluid and thats what cause the seals to leak over time

The sleeve shouldn't poke out past the front of the K-member and butt up against the back of the bushing. There's a dome-shaped recess on the back of the bushing. (See the photo in Step 12 of the MM installation instructions for a visual of this recess.)

Behind the bushing, you should have a spherical washer that fits into that recess, and behind that a flat washer. (See the photo in Step 15 of MM's instructions.) The inside diameters of those two washers are too small to accommodate the sleeve, so it needs to stop short of them.

Are those two washers in place back there between the K and the bushing? If not, you'll need to locate and install them.

The new rack will not include the items you have listed. You'll need to pick them up separately, but your dealer should have them available at the parts counter. You don't really need a new pinch bolt. IIRC, it's only seeing 25 lb-ft of torque. I've reused mine 2 or 3 times, and it's still fine.

The capacity of the power steering system isn't specified, because you need to bleed it for a while to purge all the air. I'd recommend having at least 4 quarts on hand. You'll probably use most of it.

 

[Jefe]

I knew I should've separated the rack from the K last night....

So this is what the sleeve should look like in place and cut to size?

And then these two pieces space the rack from K? I cant imagine he would of installed this and left a couple pieces off. Think I can pick these up from Ace just in case? Probably just need to take the back bushing in with me to make sure the size is right

But them im back to this pic. If the tube is sticking out of the K a little then I would be able to see some spacing here because the tube would hit the washer. I pulled the bolt all the way out but never moved the rack away from the K. Im assuming the pressure between those pieces kept those washers in place, if they are actually in there.

I see the need for the spacer tube with the rubber bushings but looking at my pics, I dont see the need for it with the Alum ones. If the bolt fits snug through both bushings, what purpose does the sleeve serve? Protect the bolt?

 

[Taz]

I knew I should've separated the rack from the K last night....

So this is what the sleeve should look like in place and cut to size?

Yes. If the opposite end of that sleeve is butted all the way up against the metal surrounding the back bolt hole (the one where the head of the long bolt is located), then it has been cut to the correct length.

And then these two pieces space the rack from K? I cant imagine he would of installed this and left a couple pieces off. Think I can pick these up from Ace just in case? Probably just need to take the back bushing in with me to make sure the size is right

Yes, those go between the rack bushings and the K. I doubt Ace would have that spherical washer, but it's in the MMST-7.1 bushing upgrade kit.

But them im back to this pic. If the tube is sticking out of the K a little then I would be able to see some spacing here because the tube would hit the washer. I pulled the bolt all the way out but never moved the rack away from the K. Im assuming the pressure between those pieces kept those washers in place, if they are actually in there.

The flat washer needs to sit up against the K-member. You don't want the rack wobbling around on the end of the sleeve. The two washers, together, should provide the gap between the K and the bushings that MM specifies. If they don't, you need to clearance the K, as I've already said.

Your washers may very well be in place back there, but you won't know until you pull the rack away from the K, and you can't do that until you remove the pinch bolt from the steering shaft and pull the shaft away from the steering gear.

I see the need for the spacer tube with the rubber bushings but looking at my pics, I dont see the need for it with the Alum ones. If the bolt fits snug through both bushings, what purpose does the sleeve serve? Protect the bolt?

The reason you need the sleeves, even with aluminum bushings, is because the boltholes in the front of the K were punched large enough to accommodate the sleeves, so they could extend through and form crush sleeves for the rubber OEM bushings. Now, without the sleeves, you'd have holes too large for the bolts going through them, and the rack would be able to move around, which you don't want.

 

[Jefe]

I think Ive got a full understanding of this now LOL. Ya the bolt sits tight in the bushings but I see how there could be a little bit of play towards the bolt head in the back

Just found these pics I took the week I bought the car. Looks like the problem might of started prior to the bushings looking at the boots. No leak yet...

 

[Taz]

I think Ive got a full understanding of this now LOL. Ya the bolt sits tight in the bushings but I see how there could be a little bit of play towards the bolt head in the back

Just found these pics I took the week I bought the car. Looks like the problem might of started prior to the bushings looking at the boots. No leak yet...

I don't think you've quite got it completely, but you're close. LOL!

Do me a favor. After you pull the rack and bushings away from the K-member, remove the sleeves, as well. Then, run one of the rack bolts up through the two boltholes on one side of the K, just as if you were ready to slip the washers and bushings on.

Okay, now wiggle the bolt at its head end - no play, because that back hole is just big enough for the bolt. Next, wiggle the threaded end of the bolt sticking out from the front of the K. Lots of play, because that front hole is big enough for the bolt AND the sleeve!

The bolt doesn't have any play inside the aluminum bushing because the bushing's inside diameter is, like the back bolthole, just big enough for the bolt. BUT the two bolts are the only things securing the rack to the K-member. Without the sleeves, the threaded ends of the bolts can move around, allowing the rack to move around.

Aluminum is soft, so as the bolts try to wiggle around, they'll enlarge the insides of the bushings by galling them out. The worse the galling, the more the rack moves around, and vice versa.

That's why you need the sleeves and why they need to be cut to the correct lengths. If the sleeves are too short and not captured in the front boltholes, it's just like having no sleeves at all, because they're not reducing the play at the front of the K. If they're too long, then the washers, bushings, and rack will teeter around on top of them, which may be even worse.

As for the photos you just posted, that rack definitely already had issues back those were taken. It was just a matter of time before it went from bad to worse. If you had a mechanic inspect the car before you bought it, he should have brought that to your attention.

 

[Jefe]

:idea: Im one of those guys that needs to actually needs to see things and how they work to understand them. But damn you did amazing explaining all this :beer: I owe you lunch or something. Might be in Phx next weekend

Rack will be here tomorrow morning. Picking up new seals(4?), 4 quarts of fluid, cotter pin, and maybe a pinch bolt if its only a buck or 2. Head to autozone to grab that tie rod remover and I should be good to do. Having a compressor makes this job so easy. Anything else Im gonna need to make the job easier? Might as well flush the whole system out while im at it too

Found out last night the torq wrench I got for Christmas only goes up to 25 or 30 ft lbs...

 

[Taz]

:idea: Im one of those guys that needs to actually needs to see things and how they work to understand them. But damn you did amazing explaining all this :beer:

Rack will be here tomorrow morning. Picking up new seals(4?), 4 quarts of fluid, cotter pin, and maybe a pinch bolt if its only a buck or 2. Head to autozone to grab that tie rod remover and I should be good to do. Having a compressor makes this job so easy. Anything else Im gonna need to make the job easier? Might as well flush the whole system out while im at it too

Found out last night the torq wrench I got for Christmas only goes up to 25 or 30 ft lbs...

Thanks.

Cotter pins are cheap and easy to break. If everything goes perfectly, you'll need only 2, but I'd buy 4, just in case.

Have your cousin bring a creeper with him, if you don't have one. That will help. And extra jack stands will help things go more easily.

You'll definitely need a stouter torque wrench. Pick up a clicker that will handle at least 100 lb-ft. You won't need one that stout for most of the bolts, but your wheel lugs should be torqued to 95 - 98 lb-ft when you reinstall the wheels.

Got threadlocker? How about anti-seize?

Also, I think Mechanic's gloves are nice to have if you want to minimize the cuts and scrapes.

Have fun. :thumbsup:

 

[Jefe]

creeper, jack stands, anti-seize, Mechanic's gloves

Yes to all those. Hoping to do it in under 2 hours. Seems pretty straightforward. Need some threadlocker though

 

[Savn4Mods]

Wow...thats pathetic what they wanted. And they said it would take 3 hours and $450 if I brought the part in with me... What would cause this? Only have 30k miles. Come with install instructions? I did upgrade to the MM Alum steering rack bushings not too long ago...

Looks like you blew a seal!!!!

I couldn't resist. You guys may have seen this before, but it's still hillarious.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2OpuuAa7gdE]YouTube - Penguin Joke[/ame]

 

[Jefe]

Got the new rack. Sure is shiny. Noticed it comes with new tie rods which should make it even easier now. What are you using to clean your undercarriage? I wanna clean mine up

Also this is the closest thing I could find at AutoZone for the tie rod end puller. I think it will still work.

 

[Taz]

Got the new rack. Sure is shiny. Noticed it comes with new tie rods which should make it even easier now. What are you using to clean your undercarriage? I wanna clean mine up

Also this is the closest thing I could find at AutoZone for the tie rod end puller. I think it will still work.

That's not the right tool, and it's not going to work. Maybe, your cousin can bring along the right one?

I just use Simple Green and shop towels to keep everything clean underneath.

 

[Jefe]

Yep he does. Said we can take the Cobra to BMW afterwards and he'll align it for me. Woo hoo

 

[Taz]

Excellent!

:dancenana:

 

[Jefe]

Boy that was a breeze. Took about 2 hours. Wound up unscrewing the tie rod ends and letting the wheels hang and measured the threads prior. Screwed the new ones back in. Pulls to the left just a tad but nothing crazy. Ill get it aligned Monday.

Sleeves were flush with the K. Reused the old ones and everything looks like it was installed correctly. Tons of fluid in both boots. Only thing that didnt go as planned was the teflon seals. Came with 4, all the same size but one fitting was larger than the other. The seal fit on but everyone at BMW says they always hear about those failing. So Ill keep an eye on that.

Couldn't imagine paying someone to do that...

 

[LuDamiKE81]

Where did ya end up buying a rack from?

 

[Jefe]

Ford/SVT dealer here. $240+150(refundable core charge). Tousley is $199 + shipping/core charge