Steering Rack Leak

Jefe

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
18,443
Location
AZ
Just noticed some red puddles on the passenger side. Got under the car and its coming from the pass side boot on the steering rack. Constant drip every 30 seconds. Shop said 770 to replace....ill post a pic here in a bit. What options do I have?
 

Jefe

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
18,443
Location
AZ
The rack is $120 at Autozone and takes 1/2-1 hour to do yourself.

Wow...thats pathetic what they wanted. And they said it would take 3 hours and $450 if I brought the part in with me... What would cause this? Only have 30k miles. Come with install instructions? I did upgrade to the MM Alum steering rack bushings not too long ago...

DSCI0317-1.jpg
 
Last edited:

Koval7887

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2008
Messages
518
Location
U.S.
I was unaware that there is a variance in the rack for that year. I know for a fact that the rack on my '98 is compatible with the rack on my old '97 v6 because I swapped them. Even so, the OP will save substantially by doing the work himself.
 

Jefe

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
18,443
Location
AZ
$240 from Ford....So leak = replace the whole thing? $110/hour if Ford does it
 
Last edited:

Jefe

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
18,443
Location
AZ
Sounds like the Aluminum Steering rack bushings that were installed a month or so ago are the culprit. Talked to BLK03SVT10TH and he had the same thing happen because the length of the spacer tube was off and the bushings werent sitting flat against the k-member. The guy that installed my bushings went by MM's directions.

Been sick for a week so I havent gotten a chance to get under the car. Im still hoping it might be a tear in the boot because I have not noticed any difference in steering since the install. Still feels great. Are there signs(besides the leak) that the rack/pinion needs to be replaced?

Also can anyone tell me the exact length the spacer tubes need to be? Directions only say how much to cut off...I may take those out and check them this week to see if thats the problem. Im hoping I can still salvage the tubes and transfer them to the new rack if I get it and just make sure they fit perfect.
 

Jefe

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
18,443
Location
AZ
Yes I know its dirty, I will be cleaning everything up soon. Anyone happen to know the bolt/nut size on the bushings?

DSCI1038.jpg

Drivers side
DSCI1039.jpg

Pass side
DSCI1040.jpg
 
Last edited:

Juruense

Banned
Joined
Nov 7, 2006
Messages
6,363
Location
USA
Maximum Motorsport's instructions are very clear about how much the rack bracket should protrude from the face of the K and how to check for proper clearance. Check them again...

New rack brackets (spacer tubes) are only $6 at the parts counter.
 

silver02stang

Just a GT
Established Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2005
Messages
579
Location
Appleton, WI
Do not use any rack except one from the Ford parts counter.

+1,000,000,000,000,000!!!

Don't get the Auto Zone rack!!! I did. It never worked as well as the stocker and 9mo later I had to replace it again! Lifetime warranty or not, you still have to either pay for labor or do the job yourself. I picked up a new unit from Ford for $250 I believe. Has been perfect ever since!
 

Jefe

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
18,443
Location
AZ
Maximum Motorsport's instructions are very clear about how much the rack bracket should protrude from the face of the K and how to check for proper clearance. Check them again...

New rack brackets (spacer tubes) are only $6 at the parts counter.

And I watched the installer do all this. I watched him put the tubes back in and they seemed to sit in their just right. Getting under the car tonight and will check all this to be sure. Gotten a lot of help from members here. Freaking love this site!:beer:

But can anyone answer this:

Im still hoping it might be a tear in the boot because I have not noticed any difference in steering since the install. Still feels great. Are there signs(besides the leak) that the rack/pinion needs to be replaced? Or is it just one of those things that means leak=replace due to many variables that could affect future use?
 

Jefe

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
18,443
Location
AZ
Thanks to Taz for the oodles of info!

If the sleeve was cut too short, it's not causing the rack to bind. It's allowing it to move around, because it isn't positively located. That would tend to tear up the rack seals by subjecting them to end loading that they're not designed to withstand.

If your leak is thin like ATF, its power steering fluid, and you need a new rack.
 

Jefe

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
18,443
Location
AZ
So it sounds to me like there's a bad seal in the green circled area which is causing the leak. And im assuming Ford doesnt sell replacement seals? Gotta buy the whole rack...

Is the boot sealed to the tie rod in the red circle? If not then that would explain why the fluid is getting out. Orange arrow is pointing to a power steering line at the seal?

DSCI1040-1.jpg
 

Taz

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2001
Messages
1,615
Location
Arizona
So it sounds to me like there's a bad seal in the green circled area which is causing the leak. And im assuming Ford doesnt sell replacement seals? Gotta buy the whole rack...

Is the boot sealed to the tie rod in the red circle? If not then that would explain why the fluid is getting out. Orange arrow is pointing to a power steering line at the seal?

The neck of the boot is supposed to be secured to the tie rod with a quick-release clamp similar to the OEM clamps on the hoses at the power steering reservoir and coolant hoses. Your clamp is probably still in place, but the ATF has caused the bellows to expand so much that you can't see it anymore. Fluid is getting out because there isn't supposed to be any power steering fluid in there, and it has deteriorated the bellows material.

The orange arrow points to an air transfer tube that enables air to flow back and forth between the two bellows as the wheels are turned. There's no fluid in that line, or at least there isn't supposed to be. Yours probably has some now, which means the other bellows is probably contaminated, as well.
 
Last edited:

Jefe

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
18,443
Location
AZ
Well the boot is definitely not connected by the clamp at all. Thats why the fluid is leaking there. I can move the boot back several inches...But as you said, there shouldnt be any ATF in the boot which means the seals are bad. I took the bushings out and the tubes seem to be fit snug in there.

IMG_1049.jpg


Theres a little bit of gap behind the bushing so its not hitting the back of the K either

IMG_1042.jpg


Drivers side boot intact

IMG_1050.jpg


Does this look right? When I pulled the bolt back a bit the sleeve was right behind there and looks like it sits flush up again that shiny washer looking piece.
IMG_1053.jpg


Im at a loss here....Is there anything else I can check while the car is in the air? The air tube maybe to see if there fluid in it? I just wanna be positive before I have to spend $300+
 
Last edited:

Jefe

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
18,443
Location
AZ
After looking at this pic with the updated sleeves it looks like mine might be cut too much. Should they come out this far?

Not my car

190583.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top