Speed of Sound Pod/ Fuel/ Boost Guage Install

[Zinc03Cobra]

Unless you use a calibrated wideband to drive the gauge.

I installed my wide band commander not too long ago, and I use the speed of sound pod. The wiring for the wbc is a bit tricky! I'll have to post pics up later. I'm moving my wideband to the steering pod as soon as i get my fuel pressure gauge.

 

[Wings65288]

thanks i'd love to see some pics

 

[Zinc03Cobra]

Blk_03
"Now for the turn on for the f.p. guage (red wire). This is the wire that tells the guage to turn on while the car is on. Again, there are different ways to do this. Some add an additional add-a-circuit and use fuse block #20."


When you use #20, you also include the exisiting 15amp fuse that was there originally correct? Can I use the same setup as the one in #37. In #37, i have the 10amp fuse and the 5amp fuse. I assume you do the same with #20?

What does #20 do anyways?

Sorry, having difficulty hooking up my fuel pressure gauge. I have all the right parts, just having some power difficulties.

I have the power/grounds to all my guages(vac/boost, fuel pres, wideband a/f) in fuse block #37, they all dim n' what not, and only turn on when the lights are on. that works just fine.

Sorry for so many questions. much appreciation

-lex

 

[BLK_03]

I'll try to answer your questions to the best of my ability.

With the add-a-circuit...yes, always place the original fuse into the add-a-circuit that the add-a-circuit is replacing (make sense???), so the 15 amp fuse from block 20 goes back into the add-a-circuit ALONG with whatever fuse is needed to run the accessory you are adding.

Block #20 is for the convertible top motor. I have not tried it this way, but all you are looking for is something that comes on when the car is started. This is your power source (turn-on) for the guage since it is electrical. If you have a power source that is on when the car is off, your fuel guage will stay on. For simplicity, I just soldered a 1 amp inline fuse onto the wire and found a wire (via circuit testing) that was on w/ the key on and off w/ the key off to splice into.

Automter recomends a 1 amp inline fuse on that power wire, and if memory serves, 3.5 amp is the smallest that comes in the add-a-circuit kit.

 

[BANDIT HPT]

Thanks for the write up. I just intalled my first boost guage and it went smoothly.

 

[FireRed04Vert]

I know this is an old thread, but I just finished my boost and f/p install in a Speed of Sound pillar. First, the pillar is first rate. I did have one small issue where a rivet was installed from the wrong side so the guage wouldn't go in, but a second with the die grinder took care of that. I used much of the information here for the parts I needed to get the job done without having to run to the parts house every 10 minutes. I just wanted to make a couple of comments that may help.

I used an electric boost guage from Autometer. It's a 15 pounder that uses a supplied MAP sensor. I simply made a bracket and mounted it behind the glove box so I only had to run a short line from the boost line. But, with this guage, you MUST have a power source that is hot while cranking. This actually wasn't hard to find. I did my power sourcing from the back of the fuse block. Remove 3 screws and it's easy to access. The problem with the Add-a-Circuit from Littlefuse is it's limited to 10 amps or less and the circuit I used was more than that. Regardless, I tapped a power source that wasn't tied to a EEC system and another that was for the lights that dimmed with the light switch. Simple.

By the way...any time you work under the dash of one of these cars, do yourself a huge favor...REMOVE THE SEAT!!! It only takes a couple of minutes and you will thank yourself many times over!!!

As to the fuel pressure sender, I bought a 3' braided line from Autometer and the required fittings that were first listed on this thread...thank you for that! Anyway, the 3' hose was the perfect length to run the fuel line to the cowl. I then removed the firewall cover that runs the full length of the firewall. It's the one that covers the windshield wiper motor. It's very easy to remove. I then drilled a 5/8 hole in the cover at the bottom of the protrusion for the wiper motor and ran the fuel line through that hole and installed a grommet. Then, using a simple clamp around the sender, it was a perfect fit to mount the sender to one of the wiper mount bolts. I tested the mount for vibration with the wipers on and since it's on the outside of the rubber mounts, there is absolutely none! Now your sended is hidden and protected from the elements and it's a very professional looking install.

One other benefit to mounting it there...there is a very large and accessible area on the drivers side behind that cover that is PERFECT for drilling and running all your wires through. I was amazed at how good a spot that was!! It comes through to the inside of the car in a great spot too!

Anyway, thanks for all the information on this thread. It was great!!

 

[hmwave]

Now your sended is hidden and protected from the elements and it's a very professional looking install.

Mmmm, I think I'd rather be able to see the sender to check now and again for fuel leaks.

 

[NHRACobra]

Mmmm, I think I'd rather be able to see the sender to check now and again for fuel leaks.

Go electric, and you will not have to worry. ;-)

 

[ShelbyGuy]

the sending unit IS electric. that doesnt change the fact that its still hooked up to the fuel system.

Go electric, and you will not have to worry. ;-)

 

[FireRed04Vert]

Mmmm, I think I'd rather be able to see the sender to check now and again for fuel leaks.

That is a valid concern, but for two reasons, I wasn't concerned with it. One, if you install it correctly, it should never leak...and if it did, the fuel would run immediately out the bottom of the cover...so you could see it. Two, if it leaked, it's in a spot that would eventually lead to air coming into the cabin. Believe me...a couple of drops leaking and you would smell it...even if you had the ac/heater turned off. The car still vents.

Still...your point is well taken.

 

[FireRed04Vert]

the sending unit IS electric. that doesnt change the fact that its still hooked up to the fuel system.

Exactly! I haven't seen a f/p guage yet that used "osmosis" to get it's signal.

 

[kgcobra03]

I know this is an old thread, is there any way to get the original pictures from this install thread? This looks like a great write-up but the pictures would be a big helpful. If anyone has a picture of the sender connected to the fuel rail and also remotely let me know.
Thanks Mike :beer:

 

[Wings65288]

yea i was really interested in seeing these pics. i remember they used to be up a while back

 

[wjfawb0]

Damn, I installed an electric fuel pressure and a mechanical boost gauge from Autometer in my car and did everything almost exactly as it was done in this article. Wish I had seen this thread. IT would have saved me some time. :??:

Luckily, we are only half way into my friends boost, fuel pressure, and water temp gauge install. We were about to start wiring things into the dash. Now tonight we'll have a little more confidence that we are doing it right.

I have had my sender mounted to the fuel rail for several months now. I wouldn't consider 6500rpm and 600HP high revving and high power though. I mean, 500rwhp cars are like belly buttons anymore. Everybody's got one. Just look at this thread. :-D

 

[Oh Three Cobra]

My sender appears to have gone bad after being mounted on the fuel rail for about 11k miles. The gauge still lights up but the needle is stuck at like 25 psi. Guess I'll order a new one and relocate it.

 

[booricua]

BLK 03 if I am installing 4 autometer gauges Fuel psi , vac boost. A/F and volt how do I wired the white wire or what size of fuse do I use /need your help will be appreciated

 

[alanw6]

BLK 03 if I am installing 4 autometer gauges Fuel psi , vac boost. A/F and volt how do I wired the white wire or what size of fuse do I use /need your help will be appreciated

I can chip in my $.02 since Tony hasn't seen this yet I guess.

You can tie all of the white leads together, and then tap off the headlight switch for your illumination. It will be the blue/white striped wire coming off of the switch. This will allow you to dim the gauges with your OEM gauges.

It's already fused from the factory, so simply tie them together and splice into this lead. Current comsumption is not a big issue, and the factory fuse will pop if there is a problem.

Hope this helps!

 

[booricua]

Thanks Alan I always appreciate your input , Now If I choose not to splice and instead use a add a circuit with an additional fuse can I use a bigger fuse??, I will do that to all the ground wires and any additional color will be to a different or specific assy. Will this choice that you offer will be better on dimming it than using the fuse itself??
BTW whats up with the new Item I feel I have to get one of those thingy that no one knows what it is The one Jason broke???

 

[alanw6]

Maybe a little bigger fuse, but not too big. Simply not needed for the small amount of current potential. A dead short is really all you want to protect yourself from, and any fuse will pop quickly with that.

Using fuse 37 (isn't that it?) will be the same as splicing the wire at the switch, from a dimming perspective.

The new part is about to hit. Ask Jason, he just got a shiny new billet replacement for the prototype part that broke.

 

[booricua]

Thanks Alan I will try tonight while I wait for the rest of the parts