Has anyone upgraded their stock clutch to any of the Spec Super Twin Series clutch kits? The last time I started my car it started to exhibit the clutch drag symptoms, so I haven't driven it and my selling Ford Dealer Service Mgr. ordered the parts on the "Clutch Drag TSB" . (1000 miles on the car and SS'd from day 1 ) That was back in the beginning of November and still no call that the parts are in!! WTF After giving it some thought and doing some research, I've decided to purchase the SFG5PT Spec Super Twin clutch that includes an aluminum flywheel and billet aluminum pressure plate rated to handle 1395 lb/ft. torque. I have the second generation trans. with the updated input shaft so I really just have to change the flywheel/clutch/pilot bearing assembly to make it better than new! Even though I'll be spending the money out of my pocket for the clutch, I figure I'll have a much better package for my car. I can get that clutch kit for $1395. shipped and doing the work myself negates spending any money for labor. So if anyone has any personal/indirect experience with the Spec Super Twin, please chim in. :idea: Thanks in advance guys ;-)
Spec Super Twin Clutch
- Thread starter anvrsy red vert
- Start date
smart man!! it's the route I'm going too......have the Spec page saved so when it's my time, I'm doing the same............but so far, stocker is good
you should have Ford do the install..Why get dirty, they at least owe you that, IMO
I don't think they'll do it as part of the TSB repair. Have them do the TSB so you can get the imput shaft work done then install the Spec clutch and sell the stock twin clutch & flywheel to recoup a little money; this is what I'm planning on doing and I'll be going with the Spec Super Twin as well.
When I first spoke to the Svc. Mgr. at the dealership that sold me the car, he did say he had other guys that purchased cars from them bring them parts they bought for their Mustangs and his Svc. Techs installed them for labor costs only. I didn't want to take this route since I could do the work myself. My buddy suggested I let the dealership do the TSB work minus the trans. input shaft and syncro's and then do the spec clutch and sell the updated stocker; but then right off the bat the clutch is used and I think the majority of the guys that have the clutch drag will have it done under warranty and the others that don't qualify in time for the warranty may not want to replace with upgraded stock used parts! With this reasoning, I choose not to let any Tech work on my car at a dealership and the money spent for this clutch will pay off over time in better performance and peace of mind.
I don't think they would be willing to install my aftermarket clutch and then give me the OEM parts and input into Oasis that they did the TSB work for payment from Ford. :dw: Even though I would be willing to sign off on any potential problems with the aftermarket clutch it would put them into a very uncomfortable, legal situation; which If I were the Svc. Mgr. would not agree to myself.
Why change the stock one? I have never heard of any slipping on <600whp cars and not many big power cars. The stock clutch doesnt get the credit it deserves, I guess due to all the trans issues that distract from it.:shrug:
I've started to exhibit the dreaded clutch drag; ie, in neutral or when in gear a constant grinding sound. I'm assuming my stock nodular iron flywheel has warped due to heat build-up and/or the mild steel clutch disc hub has developed some rust build-up which doesn't allow smooth movement along the input shaft. This is the reason for TSB 08-16-4. Ford has developed a new style steel flywheel which technically should not warp with any heat build-up and also a nickel hub clutch disc hub that will not rust. My clutch is not slipping but exhibiting the above conditions. I have the 2nd. generation trans. which has the upgraded input shaft with slightly different tolerances and highly polished to provided better clutch disc movement. I like the Spec super twin features with increased disc diameter and the intermediate pressure plate with staps vs the stock being full floating and also the aluminum flywheel and billet aluminum clutch cover which will be less rotating mass.
I agree with STRIPE DELETE after about 150 passes and countless 10.60-80 passes with slicks and drag radials IMO the stock clutch was as good as the day I bought the car and when I took every single part off my car it felt as tight as when I left the dealer for the first time.As far as the chatter or noise goes I'd rather deal with that until the clutch lets go than take a chance on not likeing the way your new clutch works because I know guy's at thetrack that upgraded their clutch and then couldn't powershift or the clutch grabs so fast that it won't slip at all so you need to be PERFECT on your launch and shift or you miss it.So just becarfull sometimes less is more.IMO
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one reason to switch to the spec clutch is the aluminum flywheel. lighter flywheel = faster revs!
it all sounds good on paper but we have seen no gain what so ever from things like changing out a 07 lower pulley to the lighter 08 or a drive shaft swap to allum. or a fly wheel change for wheight savings or rotating mass. to me it's all a crock of shit.and you should not believe or buy every item for sale on the market.Remember no matter who is selling you this stuff no matter how great these guy's are they are salesman selling product for profit because we all need to make a living.It's nothing personal and it's not meant to piss off the vendors but you can waste a lot of money on big dollar items that don't result in big or no gain at all.You want to go faster then my advice will cost you little or no money go to the tracks more often and practice,and watch the people who are beating your times.ask questions,payattention,and have fun with the set up you allready have.
It's way cheaper to get the driver faster than it is the car.
this is not for everyone it's for the guy's who can't understand why guy's like me with less parts can beat guy's like you.Tough love just like your old school teacher (lol)hope to see you guy's at the tracks in the spring and good luck
It's way cheaper to get the driver faster than it is the car.
this is not for everyone it's for the guy's who can't understand why guy's like me with less parts can beat guy's like you.Tough love just like your old school teacher (lol)hope to see you guy's at the tracks in the spring and good luck
How do you know if you have the upgraded input shaft and does that get upgraded with the latest tranny TSB????
Thanks!
Thanks!
I have a SPEC Stage 3 that gave me 2000km's of the most wretched driving ever. They got over $500 from me once, never again. On a six paddle clutch only 4 paddles were contacting due to various pad thicknesses...
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I have had zero luck with aftermarket clutches in the past, centerforce, ram, spec, you name it
I like stock the best in all my cars
I like stock the best in all my cars
Chuck: The 2nd generation trans will have a sticker labeled TUET 8175 B on the side of the trans. That's tremecs part #. It has the upgraded input shaft that is part of the trans kit in TSB 08-16-4. I forget just what is the time frame where Ford started to install these trans. in the cars but my car was born on 3-05-08. I know you visit Team Shelby Forums so Grabber is the man that can provide that specific info. If you have the TSB done then the new input shaft is included in the 7R3Z-7C391-A Trans Kit. Hope this info helps.
added pics of my Spec above
so every manufacturer has had a bad apple..........so should be forget them completely ??? Many have had clutch issues so we shouldn't have purchased our GT500's ???
Now you're simply putting words in my mouth, I never said that, but I will say mine is not the first pre-mature Spec failure I have seen. It's a QC issue and example of my personal experience with that brand. Anyone who reads the post will take it for what they wish to, that's all.
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