Spec 3+ clutch chatter

[CobraO4]

Just wanted to throw this out there. How many of you guys that are running a Spec3+ clutch still deal with the annoying chatter.

Even after 5,ooo miles I still have the problem.

I installed a steel flywheel because I was told that would help reduce it. I was also told by many the the chatter would go away after break-in. As you would guess it is worse at a low RPM start. Letting the clutch out quickly or raising the RPMs up a little kind of keeps it bay

Anyone with experience on this issue. What do you recommend

 

[rotor_powerd]

My car has a 3+ in it, and has maybe 400 miles on it from what I was told. It chatters quite a bit, and like you said, a higher RPM and quicker launch helps it. I'm hoping it gets better than it is right now.

 

[chopps]

I was told same thing as you guys and ,
"HOGWASH" IMO it don't go away !!

 

[redfiresvtsnake]

Mine has almost completly vanished after 1k miles. It only chatters if the rpms are very low when I let the clutch out. Very rarely does it chatter now, and it doesn't chatter very much at all when it does.

 

[Busta1]

I run a Steeda Quick Release Quadrant and Fiore Adjuster. No chatter at all unless it's really low in rpms like just off idle. I've heard from somewhere that the Spec likes QR quadrants. It's something to try.

 

[SnakeBit]

I have about 800 miles on my clutch and the chatter stopped shortly after 500 miles.

I had a McLeod clutch plus Kelvar disk on my 98 Cobra and chatter never went away until I replaced that clutch after the TOB went south. In retrospect, I believe my problems were due to the install. Both clutches were with the original steel flywheel, and that flywheel was NOT ever turned.

For my Spec 3+, I changed EVERYTHING except the input shaft (including the clutch arm and pivot). I watched this mechanic (different mechanic than the 2 clutches on my 98) and I am completely satisfied that it was installed perfectly. I watched him torque the flywheel in place (bolts each got a spot of oil on the threads because he doesn't believe in torquing bolts dry), hand tighten all of the bolts, tq to 20 lb/ft in a star pattern, then upped the tq to the final setting in at least 2 more passes). This guy removed the old clutch and flywheel bolts in a star pattern, even though those parts were not going to be reused. He took 3 days to do the install (because that's the way he works), but I wasn't in a hurry. He's got a small shop which is much different from a dealership or other large garage where mechanics are pushed to get it in and out. As anal as I am, even if I was setup to do the clutch myself, I could not have done a better job (which is why I took it to him in the first place). And I used a FRPP HD TOB instead of the TOB which came with the Spec clutch.

I was careful during the break in period and avoided rpms over 4,500. However, shortly after 500 miles I did rip off a powershift and it was sweet.

I'm not trying to suggest that your clutch was installed incorrectly, I'm just voicing my own experience here. :beer:

 

[CobraO4]

Mine has almost completly vanished after 1k miles. It only chatters if the rpms are very low when I let the clutch out. Very rarely does it chatter now, and it doesn't chatter very much at all when it does.

Redfire: Have you ever taken your car to the track? If so after you did a hard launch does the chatter come back the next time you use it on the street? I would be interested in, after you heat the clutch up a little does the chatter come back

To everyone else: My clutch was installed by HP BY HERMANN who I have the utmost confidence in him and his abilities. I also replaced the flywheel, TOB, Input shaft, and the clutch all at the same time.

The chatter is exactly the same as the day it was installed and is just a big pain in the ass on the street. Somewhat disappointed in the performance allthough it does handle the 650+ HP well.

Would like to hear more opinions and feedback from the rest of you guys.
:beer:

 

[evil04svtcobra]

mine still does it here too! 7k miles after

 

[Comp04svt]

Like Busta1 said, mine only chatters when the r's are really low. I have the Fore quad, and adj. with a fidanza aluminum flywheel. Theres probly like 2,000 miles on everything.

 

[CobraBob]

I have about 800 miles on my clutch and the chatter stopped shortly after 500 miles.

I had a McLeod clutch plus Kelvar disk on my 98 Cobra and chatter never went away until I replaced that clutch after the TOB went south. In retrospect, I believe my problems were due to the install. Both clutches were with the original steel flywheel, and that flywheel was NOT ever turned.

For my Spec 3+, I changed EVERYTHING except the input shaft (including the clutch arm and pivot). I watched this mechanic (different mechanic than the 2 clutches on my 98) and I am completely satisfied that it was installed perfectly. I watched him torque the flywheel in place (bolts each got a spot of oil on the threads because he doesn't believe in torquing bolts dry), hand tighten all of the bolts, tq to 20 lb/ft in a star pattern, then upped the tq to the final setting in at least 2 more passes). This guy removed the old clutch and flywheel bolts in a star pattern, even though those parts were not going to be reused. He took 3 days to do the install (because that's the way he works), but I wasn't in a hurry. He's got a small shop which is much different from a dealership or other large garage where mechanics are pushed to get it in and out. As anal as I am, even if I was setup to do the clutch myself, I could not have done a better job (which is why I took it to him in the first place). And I used a FRPP HD TOB instead of the TOB which came with the Spec clutch.

I was careful during the break in period and avoided rpms over 4,500. However, shortly after 500 miles I did rip off a powershift and it was sweet.

I'm not trying to suggest that your clutch was installed incorrectly, I'm just voicing my own experience here. :beer:

The break-in period has a lot to do with it IMO. I knew a local guy who installed a Spec 3 on his '03 Cobra. He was careful with the breakin and it chattered for the first 500 miles or so. Then it was fine. Haven't talked to him in a long time so I have to assume he never had a chatter issue after the breakin.

 

[whipplesnake]

I just put a spec3+ in and I have no chatter not even in reverse.

 

[Fat-cat]

I have had mine in all season ( about 5k miles on it now ) still some very light chatter on low rpm engagement. i never get any chatter other then that. The clutch holds my 700flywheel hp just fine but it holds the power to well with a good tire. My nittos would cook off at 3 grand launches at the track .. when i went to the MT's it hooks so hard i had to leave at 5k to keep it from bogging. And it lead to a broken half shaft. I have not decided if im going solid or if i will buy and grind my irs down to make them fit or shell out the bucks for bogarts. After heating the clutch at the track .. i find that the clutch acts better less chatter but way more grip. This clutch has like no slip very on off for track use.. the street manners are exactly what i expected for full face cintered (sp) iron disc. I would go twin disc next time for seeing how my buddies cobra acts at the track with his RST twin .. my 60's were ****en terrible this year and i could do nothing but break or bog. Im sure slicks and 5k launches will be the answer next year ... if i dont go solid

 

[Posi]

Mine chatters also. Got over 1,000 miles on it.

 

[CobraO4]

The break-in period has a lot to do with it IMO. I knew a local guy who installed a Spec 3 on his '03 Cobra. He was careful with the breakin and it chattered for the first 500 miles or so. Then it was fine. Haven't talked to him in a long time so I have to assume he never had a chatter issue after the breakin.

Hey CobraBob, What exactly should be done in order to break in the clutch properly? A little late for that, at least for me but I was wondering.

Seems like everyone has issues except for a selected few?

 

[wheelhopper]

I have the Spec 3. I occasionally have chatter. Not bad though. I used an Exedy chromoly flywheel.

The way I look at it is you have to make some compromises when you install, what I would consider, a reasonably priced clutch and pressure plate that can handle 700lbft of torque.

 

[redfiresvtsnake]

Hey CobraBob, What exactly should be done in order to break in the clutch properly? A little late for that, at least for me but I was wondering.

Seems like everyone has issues except for a selected few?

Proper way to break in a spec clutch as per the directions from spec is to NOT get into the throttle hard and no pwer shifts. 500 miles of normal clutch in/clutch out driving. Not 500 miles of highway driving. I drove my car to work for 500 miles of pretty much 85% stop and go and it worked like a charm.

 

[CobraO4]

Since I have over a thousand miles on the clutch at this point is there anything you can do to improve the chatter? Maybe what it needs is a couple of 5 grand holeshots and maybe some power shifting at the track to get this clutch to smooth out a little.:burnout:

 

[IronTerp]

There has been considerable information posted up on clutch chatter and the cause of it. Mine chattered/shuddered so bad when I first installed it, that I thought there was an install problem. It gradually improved and by 800 miles, the chatter was gone and it was/is every bit as streetable as the OEM setup. The steel flywheel probably contributes to this driveability.

Suposedly, a very thin layering of the clutch disc itself needs to wear away before the clutch will engage properly without side affects.

 

[03Gunner]

I have about 200 miles on mine, also replaced the shaft and put in a LFP Fidanza Alluminum flywheel. I took my time with the install, cleanning all surfaces with brake cleaner and wiping it down not to leave any grease or finger prints.
I also installed a fiore quad and adjuster and have made sure the clutch cable is adjusted as perfect as I can get it.
When I first drove it, it had a considerable amount of chatter but has significantly improved, almost to rarely existing only when I don't give it enough gas when taking off from a dead stop.
I'm still in the breakin period so I'm careful of taking off and acceleration to make sure it's broke in properly. Also, my driving is all city.
I know with my clutch kit there were several warnings in the clutch install instructions highly stressing the 500 mile breakin of the clutch, and refused responsiblity if not done so properly So I'm wondering if it is not broke in properly, if it messes up the surfaces of the clutch assembly, flywheel or both, and if so, could you possibly resurface them to resolve the problem.

 

[josh_h25]

Still got the chatter on my spec stage 3 after 5k.