Spark plugs

[440sprint]

Great thread!! Plugs are enormous!!

What are the engine operating changes with these SC'd cars indicating that new plugs are needed?

I have 4300 miles after 1 year of ownership (as of last Tues, 7/9/13), and I have noticed no performance changes with the OE plugs, which I have never touched!

 

[BOD89LX]

What about the 1 step colder Motorcraft plug??? Gap around 32?? Anyone try it?? Thanx

I had them and my car would detonate like crazy with them and mods, switched to the NGK and problem solved.


:beer:

 

[F8L SN8K]

I've always had great success with Iridium plugs. I don't mess with changing plugs so often. To me that seems like a waste of time and money. TR6IX here only pull them to check the gap and condition a couple times on my DD.

 

[masonh]

I like the Iridiums too. i actually went against the advice of van when I bought his 13-6 kit and went with the TR6IX instead of the TR6. He said some guys have trouble with the Iridium 6's but I figured I would try them and if they didn't work then I'd swap out for TR6.

Other plugs I would recommend are the Denso IT22 or IT24( 2 steps colder) and the Autolite AR94. Autolites have always worked well in Fords.

 

[stkjock]

I did a lot of research on this forum/internet concerning spark plugs when I
got my 13-5 kit from Revan Racing. Summary: Most aftermarket vendors on here recommend the NGK Tr6 gapped at .30-.32 with most of their mod. kits etc.

no they don't, maybe .030-.032



The TR6 is a good plug, can be had for less than $14 a set (on-sale), I swap mine about once a year, but only put 3000 ish miles, they probably could stay longer.

As far as when to swap, really depends on driving conditions, fuel and boost.

 

[masonh]

I should add that the Denso IT22 are 2 steps colder and the IT24 is 3 steps colder than the OEM 2013 plugs. I guess the older model Shelby's ran colder plugs so when they say two steps colder for a 2011 Shelby, it's like three steps for us. I also think the Autolites AR94 are three steps colder as well, maybe four.

The autolites above is a racing copper plug and I hear good hings about it. Naturally it's better to be too cold than too hot in your plug selection. If you run plugs that are too cold you will eventually end up fouling them out and having to spend $20 on a another set. Run plugs that are too hot for your motor and you may end up buying a new motor at $30,000.


Not all of these plugs will match up perfectly with each other step for step.

 

[masonh]

What are the engine operating changes with these SC'd cars indicating that new plugs are needed?

Obvioulsy detonation or pinging and surging. When you add boost you need to go colder.

Just from what I have read it looks like the OEM plugs are actually on the hot side to begin with and the car could probably run one-step colder bone stock just fine and probably should in certain areas of the country. Add any boost at all, like 1-2psi even and you need to get rid of the OEM plugs and go colder for sure.It seems that 15psi is about the cap for these OEM plugs and lots of these cars hit 15psi bone stock. If you hit 20psi you should go to two steps colder and I think that will cover 99% of us.

 

[Ray Lucca]

Is the Motorcraft SP 471 BJ posted the 1 step colder plug??? Good app. for the 13-14???
Gap around 32?? Only really need it if you go beyond Tune, Cai and TB??

 

[440sprint]

What are the changes mandating a swap to a lower temp thermostat?

 

[DG500]

I have not found any info on this online, so I thought I would share. I pulled my stock plugs on my '14 GT500 and found that the stock motorcraft CGSF-12YP also number SP-536 is actually an NGK plug. The NGK part number is stamped on the nut portion with FoMoCo CGSF-12YP on the porcelain. The NGK # is ITR6G9. Its an Irridum with the same specs as a TR6IX only is doesn't have the tapered electrode and comes with a .036 gap where ther TR6IX comes with a .040 gap. Just thought I would share. Also my terminator used to eat through a set of TR6s every 5k or so.

 

[cotten]

I have not found any info on this online, so I thought I would share. I pulled my stock plugs on my '14 GT500 and found that the stock motorcraft CGSF-12YP also number SP-536 is actually an NGK plug. The NGK part number is stamped on the nut portion with FoMoCo CGSF-12YP on the porcelain. The NGK # is ITR6G9. Its an Irridum with the same specs as a TR6IX only is doesn't have the tapered electrode and comes with a .036 gap where ther TR6IX comes with a .040 gap. Just thought I would share. Also my terminator used to eat through a set of TR6s every 5k or so.

Can Anyone else confirm this?^^^

 

[DG500]

 

[DG500]

go to https://www.ngksparkplugs.com and search for the application. the same number comes up and you can then pull up the TR6IX and compare.

 

[RazorGTP]

I bought a set of TR7IX and will be putting them in over the winter when I swap the pulley from stock. With the mods in my sig plus a 2.4" pulley what should I gap? Any issues running these?

 

[mrpork]

how often should you replace your plugs. no mods other than (CAI) 5900 on her with original plugs.

 

[stkjock]

how often should you replace your plugs. no mods other than (CAI) 5900 on her with original plugs.

If it were me, I'd replace them every 20K or 4 years if I'm not modded. cheap piece of mind if you do it yourself