SOLID REAR SWAP HELP (I search for a week and cant find answers!)

[undrpresr]

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[whi tri]

Is there a reason that you want to go with a 9 inch rear. Everyone has a reason so I was just curious because you can make a 8.8 very strong.

 

[undrpresr]

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[firstsvt]

EDIT: If you know where to find just a 99+ housing only, please let me know

Okay bear with me here, I am currently doing the exact same thing as you!! If I'm going to build a rear end, I'm not puttin c-clip axles in there so I could lose a wheel at the track one day (thats no fun), c-clip eliminators are out because you have to run drum brakes and c-clip elims are not very street friendly (leaky), so 9" ends it is.

From my research and some advice from reliable sources, tell sme that when you go 9" ends, you will lose the ABS - no way around that. It has to do with the space bewteen the brake bracket required and the axle hub doesnt leave room for the ABS ring that must be pressed on.

Now onto the brakes themselves, the only way to run discs is to purchase an Explorer brake setup from Ford ~$375. This disc brake setup is designed to complement the big 9" ends now on your 8.8. Problem solved. Or you may be able to find someone to custom build you some brake brackets that could work with the Cobra brake setup or at least GT brakes. This is the option that I am currently exploring.

I hope this helps a little, and I hope some other guys chime in and maybe have some other ideas.

The way I see it is, build it right, and you'll build it once :beer: I certainly dot want my car to lose a wheel on a 1-2 shift and put my baby into the wall because I didnt want to set up my rear the best way possible.

I figure its gonna be all of $2 - $2.5K to do this right, depending on suspension component choices. I am trying to save a few bucks a piece it together myself too since I have a few months and I'm not in a hurry.

If you want to opt for a complete rear, I've heard great things about DTS (drive train specialties). Expect to pay $2 K for a built rear from them!

Oh yeah, heres alink to modfords where I started this exact thread over there....good info!! http://www.modularfords.com/forums/...ends-c-clips-axles-what-did-you-do-39252.html

Lets see if this goes anywhere, we need the 8.8 gods

op:

Jason

 

[cmbanks0723]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9-Fo...001353926QQcategoryZ33731QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

i talked to thies folks and was told thay would make the housing to accept our brakes $715 with axles 31 or 33 spline...then all u have to really worry about is the center section

 

[undrpresr]

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[firstsvt]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9-Fo...001353926QQcategoryZ33731QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

i talked to thies folks and was told thay would make the housing to accept our brakes $715 with axles 31 or 33 spline...then all u have to really worry about is the center section

Thats a good find, but are you sure they know about all the little items that need to be addressed. Did they say that they could build you a housing specifically with the 9" ends, because this is the one item that screws everything up, or was the build with the regular 8.8" ends. The only way to get our brakes to work with the 9" ends would be a custom (one-off) brake bracket. Is this what they are doing? Did they say you could use your stock 03 Cobra disc brakes, or just that you could use disc brakes in general??

Oh yeah, you are talkin about a 9" housing, not an 8.8", so I dont really know what applies now, sorry :shrug:

 

[firstsvt]

I mean an 8.8 is strong, but tracking the car every now and then, and playing around on the street with my current setup (Probably 450 hp??) then when I upgrade and am putting out over 600 hp, I don't see that rear holding up too well, there is just no strength to the housing to keep it from rotating or bending from the torque.

This sucks! :shrug:

EDIT: Check this out for great info!!! http://mustangandfords.com/howto/28733/

A built 8.8" has taken cars deep into the 8's. I believe that if its build properly, it will hold up to the ~600 RWHP and ~700 RWTQ I have planned after I get my 2lb lower on with my 2.76 upper and Steggy IV port, and then adding a healthy pre-MAF dry shot :rockon: Put all the good stuff in it,if you put 33 splines in there with a Detroit Locker, it aint gonna break!!

Thats a good find on the Griggs Racing modified 8.8. I'd really like to know how they solve the ABS problem, I didnt think there was anyway around it because with the 9" ends there isnt room for the ABS rings to go on the axles.........I guess if the axle housing was narrowed a bit, this may work :read:

Did they tell you what they do to make it work??

The 9" may also prove to be a quite viable option, there is some racing myth that people think 9" rears way sooo much more than an 8.8", when in reality, if you pick the proper parts, then weight difference is almost unnoticeable, and the gear selection for the 9" rear is much greater than the 8.8, and gear swaps can be done much quicker

I am going to call Strange Engineering, they build some of the best rears in the business and should be able to shed some light on this.

You guys please report back with any findings, this has been bugging me for a while :dw:

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

EDIT: Check this out for great info!!! http://mustangandfords.com/howto/28733/

A built 8.8" has taken cars deep into the 8's. I believe that if its build properly, it will hold up to the ~600 RWHP and ~700 RWTQ I have planned after I get my 2lb lower on with my 2.76 upper and Steggy IV port, and then adding a healthy pre-MAF dry shot :rockon: Put all the good stuff in it,if you put 33 splines in there with a Detroit Locker, it aint gonna break!!

Thats a good find on the Griggs Racing modified 8.8. I'd really like to know how they solve the ABS problem, I didnt think there was anyway around it because with the 9" ends there isnt room for the ABS rings to go on the axles.........I guess if the axle housing was narrowed a bit, this may work :read:

Did they tell you what they do to make it work??

The 9" may also prove to be a quite viable option, there is some racing myth that people think 9" rears way sooo much more than an 8.8", when in reality, if you pick the proper parts, then weight difference is almost unnoticeable, and the gear selection for the 9" rear is much greater than the 8.8, and gear swaps can be done much quicker

I am going to call Strange Engineering, they build some of the best rears in the business and should be able to shed some light on this.

You guys please report back with any findings, this has been bugging me for a while :dw:

Excellent POST!!!

I myself believe a 9" will be total overkill!!! Unless you are going to "back half" the car w/ tubs and 4 link and run well into the 8s or 7s... I don't see the need...

Here is Postban's how to... http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94768&highlight=live+axle+swap

I think you might be making this harder on yourself than it needs to be..

 

[tjvineyard]

Reviving this thread since I just went through the same tough decision.

I ultimately decided to go with a built 9".

I could get an 8.8, but I was set on a Detroit Locker. I am going to drag race, with slicks, and I have a Whipple and am considering nitrous. 31 spline axles *might* live or might not. I cannot get a locker for 33 splines or bigger, and I refuse to run a spool because I drive it on the street regularly. There is a 33 spline Auburn posi for the 8.8, but I don't want to rebuild it after track abuse.

I could go the 31 spline locker in an 8.8 route or get a 35 spline with locker in a 9" from DTS for a couple of hundred dollars more. I know that it is a little heavier, and a little less efficient, and I am giving up ABS, but all of those are preferred over broken axles, the ensuing drag strip carnage, and the walk home (I drive to and from the track).

I am going to use the Explorer brakes as well. I am considering a Baer set up for the front and then I will sell the Cobra brake package all together...

TJ