go solid axle. it made a world of difference in my car and i didnt see to much handling diff. I picked up alot of power mostly because when i did the swap i put exhaust on my car but you can really feel the weight diff.
Solid Rear End Vs I.r.s.
- Thread starter DJ HEARTLESS
- Start date
matt888 said:I went the other way. Put in an IRS and sold my solid rear out of my 96 GT. 2 reasons...
I don't like driving an 1812 wagon cart
and
I have to match it up to my 01 cobra engine.
Why not just buy a cobra? Because there's no fun in that!
YOUR CAR LOOKS SICK WITH THAT SWAP :rockon:
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2002
- Messages
- 9,444
droptopsnake01 said:
+1
Are the 94-98 GT straight axles the same as the 99-04 GT axles what are the differences if any :shrug: with one is better :??:
Has anybody looked into the 05 mustang GT straight axels and if those can be used?
:shrug:
Has anybody looked into the 05 mustang GT straight axels and if those can be used?
:shrug:
MR PA1N said:
The pre-99 solid axles are 3/4" narrower on each end than 99+ solids. No big deal there, just need some wheel spacers or a slightly different back spacing if you don't want the wheels to look too tucked in. Also, the pre-99 use 12 mm bolts between the lower control arms and the torque boxes whereas the 99+ (including your IRS) solids use 14 mm bolts. So your bolts that fit your torque box holes will not go through a pre-99 lower control arm. Options there are either to drill out the older control arm bushing sleeves (not ideal), buy new bushings for 14 mm bolts, or buy aftermarket lower control arms for 99+ solid axles (that's what I'm doing
)
Dingleweed said:The pre-99 solid axles are 3/4" narrower on each end than 99+ solids. No big deal there, just need some wheel spacers or a slightly different back spacing if you don't want the wheels to look too tucked in. Also, the pre-99 use 12 mm bolts between the lower control arms and the torque boxes whereas the 99+ (including your IRS) solids use 14 mm bolts. So your bolts that fit your torque box holes will not go through a pre-99 lower control arm. Options there are either to drill out the older control arm bushing sleeves (not ideal), buy new bushings for 14 mm bolts, or buy aftermarket lower control arms for 99+ solid axles (that's what I'm doing
THANKS :thumbsup: so it would be better to put a 99 and up axle :burnout:
I did the solid axle swap on my old white 99 Cobra and for a lot of dragstrip abuse it's the only way to go and feel comfortable about launching at 7,000rpms.
I now have the red 99 Cobra that was stock when I got it and I'm going to build up the IRS and keep it. 03/04 Cobra halfshafts and a 31-spline traction lock unit with urethane IRS bushings should take all I can throw at it with my all motor setup making around 300rwhp. If I were to go with a blower or nitrous later I'd consider the solid axle swap though.
I now have the red 99 Cobra that was stock when I got it and I'm going to build up the IRS and keep it. 03/04 Cobra halfshafts and a 31-spline traction lock unit with urethane IRS bushings should take all I can throw at it with my all motor setup making around 300rwhp. If I were to go with a blower or nitrous later I'd consider the solid axle swap though.
Here's an update on my IRS to 97 Cobra solid axle swap:
I've had the solid axle in for a couple of weeks now. Overall, the swap was very straight-forward and easy. I only ran into a couple of "challenges". The first was with the lower control arms. The 97 solid uses 12mm bolts between the LCAs and the axle and the LCAs and the torque boxes. 99 and up Mustangs us 14mm bolts. For the swap I also ordered a set of Maximum Motorsports LCAs (part # MMRLCA-5). This allowed me to use new 14mm bolts between the LCAs and the torque boxes. But the 12mm holes in the axle housing still didn't match up with the 14mm holes in the LCAs. So, I drilled out the holes in the axle housing to fit new 14mm bolts. The other "challenge" was that a line to the gas tank naturally sat where my new Flowmaster catback pipe passed over the axle. This just required one cable tie to hold it out of the way of the pipe. That's it for out of the ordinary stuff. EVERYTHING else (brakes, brake lines, cables, ABS lines, driveshaft, upper control arms, etc.) just bolted right up as though it was supposed to be there.
The solid axle is awesome! No more wheel hop. When you apply a lot of power to it, it feels ... well... solid! :thumbsup:
With the independent rear suspension, the rear of the car was bouncing all over the place. There's no point in having a high HP rear wheel drive car if you can't push the limits of traction. The wheelhop really ruined the car for me. What's the point of having a lot of power in a car if you are afraid to push the edge of traction because you might break something or the car is going to bounce all over the place and you have no control over the car?
The new 4.10 gears in the back are amazing. I can light up the back tires from a roll at 40 mph.
A lot of people say that the handling is so much worse with a solid axle than it is with the IRS in the Cobra's, but I haven't really noticed a difference. The only time I have noticed anything is when going over bumpy pavement around turns when you are riding the edge of your traction limits. For everyday normal driving, I can't really tell a difference at all. In my opinion, there is a very slight difference in the overall ride of the car. I think that the "Stang wiggle" of the rear end when cornering hard on bumpy roads can also be eliminated with a panhard bar. Then the solid will handle just as well as the IRS, or even better.
The ever so slight trade off in handling in extreme cornering is well worth the advantages of the elimination of wheel hop and losing over 100 pounds of weight. The car really is a pleasure to drive hard now!! :rockon:
I've had the solid axle in for a couple of weeks now. Overall, the swap was very straight-forward and easy. I only ran into a couple of "challenges". The first was with the lower control arms. The 97 solid uses 12mm bolts between the LCAs and the axle and the LCAs and the torque boxes. 99 and up Mustangs us 14mm bolts. For the swap I also ordered a set of Maximum Motorsports LCAs (part # MMRLCA-5). This allowed me to use new 14mm bolts between the LCAs and the torque boxes. But the 12mm holes in the axle housing still didn't match up with the 14mm holes in the LCAs. So, I drilled out the holes in the axle housing to fit new 14mm bolts. The other "challenge" was that a line to the gas tank naturally sat where my new Flowmaster catback pipe passed over the axle. This just required one cable tie to hold it out of the way of the pipe. That's it for out of the ordinary stuff. EVERYTHING else (brakes, brake lines, cables, ABS lines, driveshaft, upper control arms, etc.) just bolted right up as though it was supposed to be there.
The solid axle is awesome! No more wheel hop. When you apply a lot of power to it, it feels ... well... solid! :thumbsup:
With the independent rear suspension, the rear of the car was bouncing all over the place. There's no point in having a high HP rear wheel drive car if you can't push the limits of traction. The wheelhop really ruined the car for me. What's the point of having a lot of power in a car if you are afraid to push the edge of traction because you might break something or the car is going to bounce all over the place and you have no control over the car?
The new 4.10 gears in the back are amazing. I can light up the back tires from a roll at 40 mph.
A lot of people say that the handling is so much worse with a solid axle than it is with the IRS in the Cobra's, but I haven't really noticed a difference. The only time I have noticed anything is when going over bumpy pavement around turns when you are riding the edge of your traction limits. For everyday normal driving, I can't really tell a difference at all. In my opinion, there is a very slight difference in the overall ride of the car. I think that the "Stang wiggle" of the rear end when cornering hard on bumpy roads can also be eliminated with a panhard bar. Then the solid will handle just as well as the IRS, or even better.
The ever so slight trade off in handling in extreme cornering is well worth the advantages of the elimination of wheel hop and losing over 100 pounds of weight. The car really is a pleasure to drive hard now!! :rockon:
I'd do the swap but I wouldn't want to take a hundred pounds off the rear, the front or middle of the car yes,A hundred pounds off the rear will possibley net less traction under normal conditions {street tires}, but no wheelhop, mustangs have always been nose heavy and with the irs its nice to get a front engine car that has close 50/50 balance, jmho
Again as stated. I love my solid. I would not go back to IRS. I just wish that ford would have made it a option.
americanthunder said:
All that you would have to do to get the same weight balance back would be to get a tubular K member, and move the battery to the trunk. You'd be losing about 100 pounds off of the front and adding about 40 to the rear. Then you'd be even lighter and have a well balanced car :-D
tubular k member great idea! battery in trunk, those options....smart!
99s are closer no blower, alum block.
jesus this is still going on?
damn.
damn.
viperbluelx said:
Let's chat. I have no desire to go back to a solid. But, I do want to beef this 01' IRS up before even thinking about adding a power adder. I'm wondering if I should replace the 01' IRS with an 03-04 one or replace the differential with a 31 spline and shafts.
Again, screw the solid axle. I enjoy driving the car in other directions than just straight ahead! :nonono:
01cobravortech
Banned
I can understand going to solid axle if you have atrack dedicated car. But I can't understand the guys who think that a solid axle rides more comfortably than an IRS on the street.
IMO, if you want to keep a nice ride with the IRS and good handling then keep the IRS. If i considered my Cobra a track car strickly for the track, then yeah i would go to a live axel...just a thought goodluck
Track....Staright axle
Street...IRS
Deppends on what your going to use it for. I have a 99 but I take it to the track as much as possible so I am going to swap out to a straight axle. But if I wanted to corner carve and keep it on the street without drag racing it at the track i would keep my IRS, but I love drag racing to much so my IRS is going.
Street...IRS
Deppends on what your going to use it for. I have a 99 but I take it to the track as much as possible so I am going to swap out to a straight axle. But if I wanted to corner carve and keep it on the street without drag racing it at the track i would keep my IRS, but I love drag racing to much so my IRS is going.
I'll keep this one going! LOL
I've owned a 98 Cobra and now a 01 Cobra. I'd rather have a solid, strip car or not. I don't care about the IRS ride (I buy a sports car for power 1st and ride 2nd) and I could give two sh*ts about road racing. I'd go solid if the cheap route wasn't so jerry-rigged. I just want to swap axles and drive shafts. None of this rotor and brake issue crap.
One day...
I've owned a 98 Cobra and now a 01 Cobra. I'd rather have a solid, strip car or not. I don't care about the IRS ride (I buy a sports car for power 1st and ride 2nd) and I could give two sh*ts about road racing. I'd go solid if the cheap route wasn't so jerry-rigged. I just want to swap axles and drive shafts. None of this rotor and brake issue crap.
One day...
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