Solenoid by spark plugs? whats it's purpose

Primaris

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I have not heard of one N/A car successfully producing more power with the VCT delete.

So use at your own risk.
 

stuff03

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i'm not looking to produce more power, i'm looking to fix a problem that can't be fixed withing a reasonable price range. My car doesn't run right and wont run right until i get the VCT Delete, its proven to easily solve a common difficult problem on the svt focus. thats the bottom line.
 

Primaris

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I've never read that before either. One particular turbo tuner used it because he couldn't tune the vct correctly. I hope it works out for you.

Here is a quote from a VCT delete user (dif. msg. board):
AirPower said:
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Default Re: VCT question
it is not necessary. It is good if you really want to dial out overlap for a Fi setup or want to exactly tune camshafts for top end gains. For a daily N/A driver there is no reason to switch. I tried it both ways and found more power up top with the delete but I couldn't find as happy of a balance as with the VCT. If you are a road racer looking for a little extra up top or looking for the biggest gains for a turbo setup then go for it. It also makes tuning a little easier as it doesn't screw up the part throttle maps. Orange has it on his turbo setup, eh might chime in. Oh and if you were wondering the stock tune works fine without the VCT.
 

stuff03

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well i'm not looking to argue, but i guess i figure... Tom wouldn't suggest it to ppl having timing issues because their vct system is f'ed up if you would end up worse off.

Imagine driving an automatic geo metro... thats basically the kind of power i'm working with right now... any gear, as long as i'm below 5k rpm i have nothing.
 

svteric

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I am frustrated with my car!!!!! i just feel like selling it sometimes!!!! i am very stressed and confused!
 

stuff03

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i know exactly how you feel, i get sick of throwing money at vehicles and never fixing the problem. I had a Probe GT once... i spent thousands of dollars trying to fix what was wrong with it, i ended up replacing the engine, got it back, still ran the exact same way, i opened the hood and saw that my MSD plug wires from my old engine were on the new one, i took them off and put on different ones and it ran perfect, so i wasted thousands of dollars and replaced an engine all because i had some faulty plug wires from MSD, they were only a few months old so i would have never guessed that was my problem. I'm still kicking myself in the ass for that one.:bash:
 

Slow95Cobra

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this is the Ford pinpoint test for the code... make SURE you have the correct oil filter, ive had a svtF here at work for lower on power and whatnot, come to find out it did have the wrong filter on it. all svtf takes a fl-2005 oil filter, and 4.5 qts. of 5w.30 change the oil and see what happens. remember these things are controled by oil pressure. let me know what happens




HK15 KOER DTCS P0011, P1381, P0012, P1383, P0021, P1386, P0022 AND P1388:
Note: Oil contamination in VCT systems can cause positioning errors.

Note: VCT systems require an oil filter specific to the application.

Note: CHECK the operation of the VCT solenoid and check for a stuck or sticking solenoid valve caused by contamination. If the valve is stuck, check the spider bracket for contamination prior to solenoid replacement.

CHECK the vehicle oil filter identification to make sure it is the proper type.
Engine at normal operating temperature.
Clear fault codes.
KOER Self Test.
CHECK KOER DTCs:
Are DTCs P0011, P1381, P0012, P1383, P0021, P1386, P0022 or P1388 present?

Yes
KEY OFF. INSTALL a new VCT actuator and retest vehicle.

NO
REFER to Engine, Section 303 in the Workshop Manual Unable to duplicate or identify the fault at this time.

GO to Z1 .
 

Slow95Cobra

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i dunno, ive never had to put one on, but id be led to think it has to do with the oil control to the VCT... i really couldnt find anything in the service manual on the spider bracket
 

svteric

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will the powertrain warranty cover the vct? or how about with the supercharger? the blower doesn't effect the vct right? anyone?
 

Primaris

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When you started to enjoy ****ing with boost your powertrain warrenty said **** you you two timing bitch! Ok that wasn't so good. You are probibily right about boost not affecting the VCT, but I would think most dealers will not service it. So you either need to know a cool dealer or you'd have to fight them with the Magnuson-Moss act.

http://www.dummies.com/WileyCDA/DummiesArticle/id-2669.html :)
 

svteric

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I am about to head over to the stealership so they can diagnose it. i HOPE the powertrain warranty covers it. if not its going to cost me 90 bucks to diagnose. i just lost my job so thats going to hurt! i will let you know what it is. later.
 

svteric

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well just got back and they said they "think" its the timing belt "think!!!". What the Hell is that! They said its going to cost me 500 to replace it. Can I do it myself? Is it hard? I am so tired of getting 7-9 miles a gallon.
 

svteric

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I suppose to take it up there today to get it fixed but just dont have the money! Damn it sucks not having a job!!
 

svteric

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I just replaced the cam position sensor and vct solenoid again thinking the new ones were defected, but no still drives like crap. It will run ok when you first start it up and drive for a few minutes then comes the huge power drop. What i dont get is that if you turn off the car and restart it it resets and drives ok for a little bit and then its loses power. If it was the timing belt it wouldn't reset so it sounds like a sensor right? it would run like crap all the time if it was the timing belt or am i wrong?
 

Primaris

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Disconnect your spark knock sensor or remove it from the block and wrap it up in a rag. Maybe it's saying your knocking like crazy and is causing timing to be pulled. NOW ONLY DO THIS FOR A SHORT TEST DRIVE. IF YOU ARE GETTING DETONATION, (KNOCK) YOU COULD VERY EASILY LOOSE YOUR ENGINE.

You are F/I right? It almost sounds like something is only wrong in closed loop operation. You need to be careful. Check your compression too.
 

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