I saw a few 13/14 Gt500's at a shop. They were on a lift and I noticed that the shop used the ends of the front k-member (where it bolts up to the body close to the tires) as lifting points for the front. This was on a professional 4 point lift. I asked if this was ok and was told that it's actully a good spot for the 13/14 GT500's. I've also read somewhere that Shelby America also uses this area or close to it for contact points on their lifts. Is this ok?
Shop lifting GT500 from K-Member Ends
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I lift in that vicinity. Not necessarily on the bolts. I have an older swing arm lift.
I noticed, it was on the ends where it bolts up and a little further up as well.
Agreed. I've seen pictures where part of the metal actually gets distorted and pushed up inside the K-member mounting area. Of course this causes damage underneath the vehicle, but can also probably throw off the front end geometry which would throw off the alignment IMO.
For my car, I use the jacking points or the subframe rail under the car.
I was told that because the cars at a shop are lifted at 4 points almost all at once (instead of one at a time), that distorting the K-Member mounting area is not a concern. They also told me that they could use the pinch weld sections, but that could mangle the area a bit, without jacking puck inserts.
Interesting. Honestly I don't know if I'd trust that judgement or not. IIRC the owners manual specifically states not to jack from around that area as the metal simply isn't that thick.
From the 2014 Mustang Workshop Manual
Jacking and lifting instructions
View attachment Jacking and Lifting 2.pdf
Jacking and lifting instructions
View attachment Jacking and Lifting 2.pdf
Inserts are a good idea, that is true. Lifting "4 points almost all at once" sounds like acceptable rationale but isn't. The sheetmetal that the rear legs of the k-member attaches to is not only thin but it is unsupported. It was not designed as a vertical load bearing area however gentle the lift operator may be. The sheetmetal at this location can be distorted rather easily and the last thing you want to do is to encourage it.
This car shows damage in those areas...
The sheetmetal was designed to tear away in the event of a frontal impact.
These are the recommended lift locations...
I use these lift points for all my s197's. Never had a problem with bending or distrotion. My 13 actually has an arrow on the rocker covers.
So realistic question, given that I typically jack from the lift/pinch points on the car, is jacking the car up by the frame rail circled in the below diagram also safe? It seems like a suitable place to -also- jack from? I used the rear circled location twice already when jacking one side up at a time changing rear tires, and it seemed to hold up just fine.
When I first bought my car I put the jack there and as soon as I started putting pressure I could see the floor flex as opposed to the car moving. Now I only jack at the jacking points.
Tob,
Do you have a photo of the top of the pads on the lift that you show in the photos you posted?
Using your photo of the bottom of the car, were do you recommend the placement of jack stands.
Thanks for posting the photos.
Do you have a photo of the top of the pads on the lift that you show in the photos you posted?
Using your photo of the bottom of the car, were do you recommend the placement of jack stands.
Thanks for posting the photos.
Interesting. I never saw the floor flex on my car, it didn't seem to move at all and was solid.
For those who have Roush side splitters, how are you jacking your car up? The rear pinch weld is semi-covered by the Roush side splitter. If it's a must to jack the car from this spot, I may alter the side splitter in that location to accommodate.
I believe the Rotary lift shown in the photo from underneath looking up is using a pad like this...
I place stands or dunnage at the factory recommended location up front and the outboard ends of the axle assembly at the rear.
Thanks
Following Fords instruction would be the best choice no doubt. Jacking and lifting the car probably 2 different stress levels for the contact points. My old lift has a 4 by 4 pad that I put a 1x4 wood board, cut to 4x4 to prevent scratching things up. Lifting at 4 points in the flat where the K bolts on has done no damage. I would not jack the car up at this single point after seeing the info.
You bring up a very good point here. I have the Roush splitters also. I have not had to Jack up my car yet, but my first inclination would have been to use the areas that you have circled the earlier post. I've used those areas for jacking in other Mustangs. I've also used those areas to place my jack stands. Most of the time I will place 6"-8" long pieces of 2x4 or 1x4 to spread the load.
So far all my under car work has been done on my 4 post lift but I will be tracking my car this summer so my floor jacks will have to come out for tire and wheel changes. Has anyone else noticed floor flex?
I think I'll start using a method such as this to help spread the load as well. I'm getting ready to order a small jack insert which I believe will fit the pinch welds http://www.inapinchweld.com
I will try these out as well, but if this doesn't work, I'll most likely keep using the frame rail under the car and just spread the load as you mentioned with boards.
OK, so ever since i bought my car, i have been lifting by the rear Kmember. I have had the Roush Side splitters on since day one, so the pinch weld was never an option. I also see every ford dealer I have ever been to lift from that point. Im not doubting that its a bad spot after seeing all this, but Im just saying that there is nothing wrong with my alignment or any damage. Now my car is lower so getting to a suitable lifting point other than that rear part of the kmember is almost impossible even with my low pro extra long reach jack. I will try to find a new point when I lift it next, but Im always lifting it when I'm at the track adjusting shocks, changing wheels, etc. Again, I never knew this, but I don't thing its hurt it thus far, and I have had my car since march 2013
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