Shifting Hesatation with PPRV Delete

[speedybolt]

It hasnt been to long now since I got my car back on the road. I havent really got on it untill the other day. I am having serious hesitation between shifts in the car. Here is what I have

Whipple 2.3 @ 19lbs
Twin GT pumps w/ PPRV delete
60lbrs
Stage 2 FPDM
Wireing upgrde to FPDM and pumps

Any suggestions on what to check? It has a brand new fuel filter on it as well.

 

[dustin]

Probably in the tune. Did this start up all of a sudden from no where?

 

[speedybolt]

I'm not sure. I had the car down for a while and I didnt get on it untill I felt comfortable with all the new stuff and got all the bugs worked out. It didnt do this with the Eaton but I didnt have anything else done to it. It seems like it runs the fuel rails dry or something. I dont know.

I'm sure the tune is right on. I got it tuned ny Rick @ Amazon and he is spot on from what everyone tols me.


Also, I think I may be blowing the spark out in 4th gear on high speed pulls. It seems to stutter and not feel as powerfull in that gear. What gap should I have the plugs at for 19lbs?

 

[Wicked46]

Gap should be between .032-.035 Are you running NGK Iridiums?

 

[speedybolt]

I'm using NGK TR-6's currently gapped at .32

 

[speedybolt]

anybody have any ideas on the hesitation?

 

[Wicked46]

Sounds like you have everything needed to prevent the hesitation so it really sounds like something in the tune. The only way to find out would be to get your car on the dyno or talk to Rick at Amazon and see if he has a fix for you.

Also, ditch those copper plugs and get the Iridiums! That might help also

 

[vr4_007]

Sounds like you have everything needed to prevent the hesitation so it really sounds like something in the tune. The only way to find out would be to get your car on the dyno or talk to Rick at Amazon and see if he has a fix for you.

Also, ditch those copper plugs and get the Iridiums! That might help also

X2 Bro,.. Just did the TR7's and made a good difference for me.

 

[About2bite]

That's pretty odd, I run the TR6 coppers and have no issue with hesitation between shifts. Does it happen between every gear? Does it happen everytime? The rare occurance I do see a small hesitation is due to the PPRV and happens sometimes on the 2-3 shift.

 

[WOMACK03]

I'm using NGK TR-6's currently gapped at .32

I was having spark blow out after 5500rpm (same plugs), and regapped to .28 and it runs like a champ.

 

[Justin@VMP]

I would datalog actual fuel pump voltage and voltage from table, and see if the fuel pump voltage table is dialed in to +/- .125v. If it's not, then you could still have hesitation problems. Also, the voltage table tends to be a little different on each car, so you may want to get some datalogs to your tuner.

 

[Wicked46]

I would datalog actual fuel pump voltage and voltage from table, and see if the fuel pump voltage table is dialed in to +/- .125v. If it's not, then you could still have hesitation problems. Also, the voltage table tends to be a little different on each car, so you may want to get some datalogs to your tuner.

Justin would know! He tuned my car and knows his stuff.

 

[03dsgcobranc]

do you have a dyno tune or a mail order tune... and if it's mail order have you ever been to a dyno and had it checked?

 

[speedybolt]

That's pretty odd, I run the TR6 coppers and have no issue with hesitation between shifts. Does it happen between every gear? Does it happen everytime? The rare occurance I do see a small hesitation is due to the PPRV and happens sometimes on the 2-3 shift.

I really notice it between the 1-2 shift. It is really bad there. Yes it happens everytime as well.

I would datalog actual fuel pump voltage and voltage from table, and see if the fuel pump voltage table is dialed in to +/- .125v. If it's not, then you could still have hesitation problems. Also, the voltage table tends to be a little different on each car, so you may want to get some datalogs to your tuner.

Should I datalog just driving around or just going down the hiway in 4th gear? I was going to get some numbers on that but wasnt sure when to do it.

do you have a dyno tune or a mail order tune... and if it's mail order have you ever been to a dyno and had it checked?

It is a tune by Rick@ amazon and I have not got it on the dyno just yet because I'm still working all the bugs out. It is overheating on me as well and some other little things. As soon as i get it completely running right it will be put on the dyno.

 

[04Sonic]

Copper is fine, I would tighten the gap up .32 is a little much we run them at .26 to .28 at the boost level you are running. You really need to data log so we can view the file, my bet would be you are still running a return-less system and you are having major spikes in fuel pressure at shifts, that is how return-less works pumps on, pumps off. It sounds like your tune needs work in the fuel tables to stabilize fuel pressure a little more.

 

[MrRob96fs]

It is a tune by Rick@ amazon and I have not got it on the dyno just yet because I'm still working all the bugs out. It is overheating on me as well and some other little things. As soon as i get it completely running right it will be put on the dyno.

Did you bleed the cooling system correctly? I put a new radiator in my cobra and it started overheating. I had no idea what was going on until I found the proper procedure to bleed the coolant. It is pretty easy.

Fill the degas bottle to the add coolant line, then close it up. Open the small fitting on the cross over pipe. (It is to the right of the supercharger snout if you are looking at the engine from in front of car.) Get a little funnel and start filling that bad boy up, it is going to take some fluid so be prepared to sit there for a while and keep the funnel filled with coolan. Once you think it is done drinking coolant, squeeze the two rubber hoses running from the crossover pipe. I usually do this til I can no longer see air coming out when I squeeze the rubber hose. Now with the funnel filled with a little bit of coolant and stuck in that crossover pipe, run the car for 5 minutes. It will probaby spit a bit of coolant out unless you have a big funnel. Turn the car off after 5 mintes and the coolant level will drop considerably. At that point I top off the coolant in the crossover pipe, pull the funnel out and cap the crossover bung. Then after 10 minutes you should check the coolant level in the degas bottle again. You should be good to go after this.

If you have done all this and I wasted my time.... check your thermostat. Touch one side of it, then the other. If one side is considerably hotter than the other, change your thermostat. If they are both cool, then you need to bleed you coolant system. Just a problem I ran into myself and hope this helps.

 

[speedybolt]

Wow, no I didnt do it like that. I did the whole jack the driver side up, fill the degas tank, then fill the crossover tube and recap and let it run with the heater on. I have done that three times now and it still over heats.

I will try to do it your way and see what happens. Thanks alot that was realy good info.


About the datalogging, do I just do it while I'm driving around or what. When is the best time to do it?

 

[Wicked46]

Hook your hand held to your OBDII port and scroll to datalog/capture (something like that) and follow the instructions. It's pretty straight forward. I'm guessing your using an X-cal?

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

Another issue that can lead to hesitation (or worst case lean cond) is a lack of available electric power to the fuel pumps. Make sure your battery and alt are in top working order at all times on these cars.

 

[shhak]

At first, I was going to say the PPRV, but then I noticed you had it deleted. My next idea is that your MAF could be maxed. Did you upgrade it as well?