Shifter

08snake

Formerly 03snake
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LOL! Those were old mats out of the car I traded in. They are now in the wife's car. Collage football LOGO for Clemson. See thread titled "different floor mats". Those are the ones I have now.
 

SonicBlue03

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Mowgli: I did use the procedure outlined in the manual for adjusting the clutch, but it didn't make any change (repeated the procedure about 20 times). I also didn't here the "click" I was supposed to hear. I've heard of other people having problems with this adjusting feature. I wonder if I'm just another statistic?

It really makes shifting quickly difficult as I always have to wait until my foot bottoms out before putting it into the next gear.
 

Bosko

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In my 95 I put a Pro 50 Shifter on my TKO and i thought it was a little short, But it did shift very nice. Later I got one of thoes blue steada handles and it made a a little bit taller, further back a little, and too the left. Im 6'2" and I had to reach a LITTLE for the stock pro50 shifter but with the steada handle it put it in the sweet spot where my lazy ass didnt have to reach for it..
 
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Dana

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I don't know if I should introduce this topic here, but since it has already been brought up... Has anyone figured out how to change the geometry of the clutch linkage to reduce the travel before getting the clutch to release? I would gladly tolerate a little additional pedal pressure to get the throw reduced. It appears that if the cam (on the top of the pedal) that the cable rides on was enlarged, that would help. I haven't investigated the linkage under the car yet, but that's next.

Dana
 

Jim Vaccaro

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Originally posted by Mackie
Installed the MGW handle on the stock shifter today. Used the 2 rubber washers vs. the larger rubber isolator in the kit. My trans always had rattle/whine noise in 1rst and 2nd gear, low RPM. Its worse with the new handle. The shifts are very positive and quite a dramatic difference from stock. Anybody using the larger isolator on ths stock shifter?

I used the MGW handle with my Tri ax.I used the one piece larger isolator and the noise is very minimal.

Jim V.
 

Mowgli

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Originally posted by SonicBlue03
Mowgli: I did use the procedure outlined in the manual for adjusting the clutch, but it didn't make any change (repeated the procedure about 20 times). I also didn't here the "click" I was supposed to hear. I've heard of other people having problems with this adjusting feature. I wonder if I'm just another statistic?

It really makes shifting quickly difficult as I always have to wait until my foot bottoms out before putting it into the next gear.

Hmmm. I'd take it in then and have the dealer adjust the linkage. Shouldn't be hard for them. You shouldn't engage that low, unless you've already really worn out your clutch. ;-)
 

Mowgli

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I used the larger of the two rubber isolators supplied with the MGW handle. Still much thinner than the stock rubber block. Shifts are crisp. Noise is louder than stock, but not bad. Haven't missed a power 2nd to 3rd shift yet.
 

sn8kbite

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I had the same problem with hard shifting even with the pro 5.0 installed,in fact thats why i installed it.
After argueing and fighting with the dealer several times they finally yanked the transmission and clutch,when they unbolted the pressure the fly wheel side of the disc literally fell out in pieces.
Keep in mind the clutch wasnt slipping or smelling or anything it was just hard to shift all the time,also keep in mind it has been this way sinc ethe day the car was new.
Im going to pick it up right now and take some pictures of the old parts so i will post them here if you guys wanna see.
 

sn8kbite

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I don't know if I should introduce this topic here, but since it has already been brought up... Has anyone figured out how to change the geometry of the clutch linkage to reduce the travel before getting the clutch to release? I would gladly tolerate a little additional pedal pressure to get the throw reduced. It appears that if the cam (on the top of the pedal) that the cable rides on was enlarged, that would help. I haven't investigated the linkage under the car yet, but that's next.

I am installing the steeda quick release quadrant and firewall adjuster.Steeda makes 2 different quadrants one is blue and it is the standard quadrant and the other one which is red is the quick release quadrant.Heres a link...
http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/ClutchQuadrantQuickRelease.htm
 

Dana

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Thanks sn8kbite, sounds like just what I was looking for. You mentioned that you are installing this quadrant, have you put it in yet? Is the kit that is listed on the web page the correct one for the '03's? They mention 2 adjusters, is the one in the kit the correct one? They also mention an adapter/washer that is necessary. Does that come with the kit? I am going to order the red one. I just don't want to have taken it all apart and find out they didn't include all the pieces.
Thanks again,
Dana
 

sn8kbite

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Mine just got here today via UPS.Im going out to install it now.
I called steeda on the phone to place my order and told them what car i had and everything so they sent me what i need to do the job.
If your attempting to overcome poor and hard shifting with the quadrant your wasting your money.See my other post about the bad clutch disc.My disc was ****ed up right from the dealership.
I also just got the car back today and the difference in shifting is night and day.I can speed shift the car with 2 fingers now.
 

Dana

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Sn8kbite,
I don't have any problems shifting, even with the stock shifter. I was actually kinda surprised after hearing all the complaints on the board about it. I will probably still change out the stock shifter, but it isn't one of my top priorites at the moment. Getting rid of the excessive pedal travel is, though.
Please let me know how the install goes. If there are any problems or I need any additional parts. I can then avoid having to place a second order.

Thanks,
Dana
 

sn8kbite

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Well i got it installed i suggest you get the adjustable cable as well when you get the quadrant.
All i had to buy was some flat washers to center the quadrant on the shafts that it sits on.Just took the quadrant with me to the parts house and found the proper I.D. washers.
I also had to buy a longer screw to bolt the firewall adjuster to the firewall.
All in All its a simple job once the washers are rounded up the whole job took about 30 - 45 minutes tops.
I suggest getting the adjustable cable because if you dont you will have to cut the old hard plastic gromet off of your factory cable to install the firewall adjuster.
 

Dana

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Sn8kbite,
One last question, are you happy with the results? Did it do what we were expecting? I hope so, because I'm ordering one in the morning!
Thanks,
Dana
 

sn8kbite

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My main concern was to get rid of the plastic quadrant simply to eliminate any possible flexing or bending while powershifting which could have contributed to my shifting problem.
The fact that its now adjustable is just a bonus,so the answer would be yes.
 

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