setting timing on a supercharged car

670 of 4993

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i'm curious as to how to accurately set timing with a blower. I just replaced the head gaskets and am having some timing issues. It doesnt want to start up off the bat and it idles high. My question is do i unplug the chip and set timing? I set it to 10 degrees which complies with the tune i have, but it's still off. Sorry about all the basic questions
 

red95gts

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Did you unplug the SPOUT connector when you set the timing? You shouldn't have to unplug the EEC chip to set the timing.
 

670 of 4993

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yes i unplugged the spout connector, turned the car on, adjusted the timing, and reconnected the spout. It still idles high and doesnt want to start :shrug:
 

670 of 4993

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ok, i got it to idle fine, but its spouting blowby out of the breather (white smoke). Also, i noticed that the mark i made on the distributor shaft before removing it is not to the left a decent amount. Does this mean i should mark the dizzy, remove the distributor and then line it up?
 

670 of 4993

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i adjusted the distributor back to where it was, same problem. I'm assuming the blowby is caused by too much timing, but i'm probably wrong. I have a 3 inch pulley on my blower which i realized is way to small for a nonintercooled car. Do you think that the blowby will be eliminated if i remove this and put the stock 3.33 on and retune. There may be way too much crank case pressure

Heres some background on what happened to this point. I built a 306 last summer and got it tuned in the fall. 3 days later i blew a head gasket from too much timing. I pulled the heads off, had them decked, and went with a head stud and cometic gasket combo. Now i have it back together.
 

670 of 4993

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the high idle is fixed, startup isn't as seamless as id like but oh well. The main issue is blowby now. I think that my rings are shot because of the bad tune also.
 

carguy19

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Id look at fuel first if you are using larger then stock injectors.

A lot of startup issues are too much fuel.... not timing related.
 

SVTurbo 98

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The timing should be set to 10* (stock) and should be adjusted using the tuning software. Dumb question but did you pull out the chip that had the original tune on it? It really needs to be tuned by someone who know's what they're doing.

Are you still running the pcv valve?...also what is your fuel setup?...what kind of codes are you getting?....what did you do to fix the high idle issue?

I ran a 2.95 blower pulley without an intercooler on my old foxbody with no problem. If your engine is tired it's not really going to matter if you have a bigger pulley you're still going to have excessive blowby....
 

670 of 4993

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yea, i'm set at 10 degrees and have since fixed the high idol.

I have the pcv blocked off

For fuel i'm running a 255lph in tank pump, t-rex pusher, bbk fpr, and 42# injectors.

The motor isn't tired though. I rebuilt it last summer and have about 2200 miles on it. My setup is pretty much a stock rebuild with the exception of boring the block .030 over with new forged pistons, f-cam, and 1.6 rollers.

I added an oil stabilized in hopes of sealing everything up a little better and it did work to an extent after 50 or so miles of driving. I still have blowby but it has been minimized.

And as for good tuners, they really don't exist around here haha. They've pretty much ruined my car to the point where i want to tear my hear out :bash:
 

racerbox77

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White smoke usually equals bad head gasket. High idle means the timing is too high or the idle itself is not adjusted properly which could be the tune not the set screw. Blow bye could be happening if you didn't stagger your piston ring gaps by twisting the rings 180 degrees of each other. Also pulley size really shouldn't play a factor in your problems unless you over boosted and popped the head gasket again. Just suggestions.

Last thought- you may have an intake gasket leak which would cause a non stable idle.
 

SVTurbo 98

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I have the pcv blocked off

How are you venting the crankcase? With the pcv blocked off and the crankcase evac blocked off you should have a breather in each valve cover....or a couple 90* fittings and vacuum hoses running to a catch can/breather setup.

Are you running on the stock tune or the "tuners" junk tune?
 
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670 of 4993

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I have a breather on the valve cover. Blowby is minimal now, pretty much only at idol.

As for a tune, i'm still running the junk tune. I've put about 100 miles on the car now driving around town and shes doing alright. I'm really not going past 4k rpms or going WOT. I'm going to get it retuned within the month and hopefully things will shape up pretty well.

I have run into what may be a leaky head stud which is a kick in the nuts, but i'm going to try and take a shortcut and throw some stop-leak in there. I figure if it can patch a radiator at 16psi it'll plug a smaller hole around the stud haha. Shoulda gone with permatex 2b and not the shitty ARP sealer :bash:
 

670 of 4993

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White smoke usually equals bad head gasket. High idle means the timing is too high or the idle itself is not adjusted properly which could be the tune not the set screw. Blow bye could be happening if you didn't stagger your piston ring gaps by twisting the rings 180 degrees of each other. Also pulley size really shouldn't play a factor in your problems unless you over boosted and popped the head gasket again. Just suggestions.

Last thought- you may have an intake gasket leak which would cause a non stable idle.

Readjusted timing and the idols great.

When i installed the piston rings i did stagger them, but no matter what they will line up once in a while during the engines lifespan. Theres no white smoke from the pipes, i just replaced the head gaskets and havent hit boost. The white smoke is blowby which is almost under control lol There isnt much oil at all on the breather, but i still think i should invest in a catch can
 

670 of 4993

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you need to check to make sure the balancer didn't walk. 5.0 always do this. thats sounds like what is going on here to me.

What do you mean? You think the retainer bolt is loose? It only has 2500 miles :shrug: However i will look into it
 

hpbyhermann

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What he is saying is this....

What do you mean? You think the retainer bolt is loose? It only has 2500 miles :shrug: However i will look into it

Ford's balancer is a two piece design, it is the inner section that is pressed onto the crank and the outer section that has the timing marks on it, which is bonded to the center with a rubber ring. Over time the outer section "spins" on the center , making the timing marks incorrect. If you are using the original high mile stocker chances are the marks are in the wrong spot. Ford Racing still sells a cheap, factory replacement balancer with the timing tab. I'd invest in one!:beer: Hermann:rockon:
 
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