Running a bit hot with the supercharger... anyone make a lower thermostat?

[guarnibl]

The Boss 302 was hitting 210 on the gauge... thinking I'm going to need a lower thermostat... believe stock is 192 or 193....

Does anyone know of a solid replacement that's lower -- or a better way to cool off my Boss? I'm running 15 psi at the moment through the 2.3 whipple. Headers should drop that to 13.

Can't really do much at the moment since I'm heading to Europe here in a day or two but kind of wanting to get the parts ready that I need to swap in to ensure it runs cooler.

Was also thinking of getting :
http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com/2005_2013_GT_BOSS_302_Extreme_Duty_Radiator_p/m-8005-mgt.htm
+ the Tiger Racing hood.

I know RACERAT has a KB running 16 PSI making like 850 rwhp .. not sure what he did to keep his cooled off though.

 

[86Fbody]

Reische racing, or Reischards racing can't remember the name, makes one and they sell it on lethalperformance.com, I believe it is a 170* one.

 

[Fat Boss]

You might try one of these. I was going to say get rid of the AC condenser but then I glanced at your location...

2012+ Boss 302 Air to Oil Cooler w/Therm"

Shelby has a radiator that is made for supercharged 5.0's in the GT350.

Shelby 5.0L Extreme Duty Radiator

 

[65sohc]

A colder thermostat won't add cooling capacity. If your present thermostat is 192 and your coolant temp is 210 the stat is fully open and the cooling system is maxed out.

 

[86Fbody]

Also noticed a typo, Racerat is a woman.

 

[12C/OBoss]

copied this from your other thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by guarnibl
I'm running 15 psi at the moment but it's running hot. very hot.

Going to need a new tstat, extreme duty radiator, new hood, and new front grille to make this thing cool down most likely. Probably meth injection too just to take it down that much further.

Haven't dyno'd it yet -- just mail order tune from Comp Auto. Putting it on dyno soon once it's been dialed in... then will know how much power... but at 15-16 PSI I'm guessing 725 to the rear wheels. I'm on a Whipple 2.3.

first of all you are nuts for running a mail order tune on a Boss or ANY car in fact with forced induction especially 15psi

you need at least 75lb injectors, a Boost a pump, and a tune before you will be anywhere near 700 hp on a 2.3 whipple. You need a 2.8 liter blower 8 rib pulleys, 18.5PSI, C16, MAXXED out and not quite safe to make 780+ on these cars. Tracy did 850+ as hers is a 3.6 KB and also race gas.

210 is NOT hot on these cars. The temp readout from the PCM is cylinder head temp not actual water temperature. These cars will hit over 250 degrees before limp mode, granted these are not blower cars but its the facts.

My car would hit 230-240 during a long pull in 90+ summer heat. Then cruising it would stay between 185-190 with the a/c on and same hot weather. Now I also ran Sunoco purple and 93 50/50 mix as a precaution as it only take one detonation event to make any motor this highly tuned go boom. You gotta pay to play!


Cheap insurance. Now for road racing a Tiger hood, Saleen open grill, C&R race radiator, race intercooler, Lund super safe tune with full fans at 170 degrees, and race gas. But then again to road race my car we were detuned to lowest boost possible on the 2.8 Kenne Bell and the car still made over 630 rwhp and 550 tq.


Other idea would go to return syle fuel system and go E85. MUCH cheaper, safe for those expensive wideband o2 sensors, etc


Again DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR UNTIL IT OS DYNO TUNED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[guarnibl]

First off -- let me thank everyone for taking the time to reply to my thread -- much appreciated

Is it not heat that causes spark knock? Perhaps I'm just misinformed but I always thought that the volatility of 91 octane meant that the higher the temperatures, the more likely you were going to have spark knock / detonation. I.e., heat is your enemy. I can't be hitting 230-240 on 91 octane with 15 pounds of boost. It'll blow up. But if I ran 93 -- I could probably run closer to those temperatures, and wlel 100 Octane much higher temperatures. I.e., the cooler I keep the motor running the more likely I can run those boost levels on 91. Also, wouldn't cylinder head temp be more important than water temp anyway.

My goal is to achieve the coolest running motor possible on the 2.3 whipple with the most amount of boost possible on 91. Meth injection will be used but only as a safety precaution -- I don't want to NEED it. I'm planning on running race gas ALWAYS but don't want to NEED it if I drive the car on a longer trip. I don't mind paying $8.99 a gallon to fill up race gas every time -- but it's not reasonable to find race gas if I'm driving it further than around town. E85 isn't an option -- the fuel mileage means I would be filling up every 100 miles and would never be able to take the car long distance.

John Lund is a mail order tune as well unless we're talking shipping my car. There is no difference from what I am running vs what you are recommending. I have done remote tuning sessions with my tuner (Comp Auto -- who did a FRPP kit on a 2012 LS and were featured in Mustang Magazine) -- it's not like just fly by the seats of your pants and hope it's right. We're doing the street tuning first and then the dyno pulls after.

Again, Kooks headers should drop me another 2 psi.

The plan is (as of right now) :

#1 -- 100 octane for day to day (just around town) but 91 useable for longer trips (perhaps a secondary tune and swap to a bigger pulley?)

#2 -- Tiger racing hood.

#3 -- Extreme duty radiator (FRPP sells it)

#4 -- AFCO dual pass heat exchanger w/ dual fans and black thermal coat

#5 -- Profit??

As I said -- we're doing the street tuning first and will be running it on a dyno ASAP. We haven't driven the car more than like 500 feet a few times since putting the new pulley on and we are running race gas in it right now to ensure it doesn't detonate. No one in Phoenix uses SCT and no one here really are mustang guys -- everyones chevy here. As such it made sense for me to go to CompAuto since he's done a LS Boss with the 2.3 kit before.

But yeah, I know I need 80's for more than 650 to the wheels. Comp auto saw 650 at like 14 PSI i think on pump 93 but they were running out of fuel... so I figured at 15-16 it should be doable to get to 700-725 with race gas (assuming 80's). Initially I thought we could do it on 91... but maybe not.

 

[SILV03MustangGT]

I made 669/581 on 8 psi full exhaust, ID1000s, BAP and E85. If E85 is an option you won't need the meth injection at all. I see 18mpg highway on the E85

 

[guarnibl]

I made 669/581 on 8 psi full exhaust, ID1000s, BAP and E85. If E85 is an option you won't need the meth injection at all. I see 18mpg highway on the E85

That's not bad actually! What's better, E85 or 100 octane? Performance wise.

On my way to work there's a new gas station that just opened that sells 100 Octane and E85 ON PUMP! $8.99 a gallon for 100 Octane... $3.25 for E85. Put 6 gallons of 91 in and 8 gallons of 100 in -- so we should end up around 95 or so I'm sure. This is just to tune it. But I might just run 100 octane all day every day... I only fill up once a week... think its around $125 to fill up.

What did you have to swap to run E85?

 

[guarnibl]

Also,

If I do decide to take it to a dyno that also does SCT tuning in SoCal -- what's the best tuner there for 5.0's?

 

[2012 Boss 302]

Is it not heat that causes spark knock?

Yes heat will cause detonation. Engine temperature overheat will do it. Over advanced timing will also cause detonation. A fuel mixture lean enough to raise combustion temperature will also do it. Too much boost and too high static compression will detonate for at least a short time...

 

[12C/OBoss]

That's not bad actually! What's better, E85 or 100 octane? Performance wise.

On my way to work there's a new gas station that just opened that sells 100 Octane and E85 ON PUMP! $8.99 a gallon for 100 Octane... $3.25 for E85. Put 6 gallons of 91 in and 8 gallons of 100 in -- so we should end up around 95 or so I'm sure. This is just to tune it. But I might just run 100 octane all day every day... I only fill up once a week... think its around $125 to fill up.

What did you have to swap to run E85?

E85 is = to 98/100 octane and half the cost. Now the only issue is power density is also approx 80-83% of straight gas. So you will use approx 20% more and flow 20% more. If you are serious about 700+rwhp you need a RETURN style fuel system! Get a fuel system and 100lb injectors and run E85 and you will be safe, and make BIG power. Then the only drawback is driving range. Like 125-150 miles a tank LOL

 

[TRDon]

It's more like 27% more fuel, and 104 octane when it is not the winter e70 blend. Mileage is more like 200 miles to the tank or a little better. E85 is a much better choice than 100 octane given the evaporative cooling properties, as long as you have the fuel system capactiy to make it happen. I've got some experience in this area, e85 street/strip cars are the norm around here.

 

[guarnibl]

The only gas station in town that has E85 also has 100 Octane. 100 Octane is more pricey but that also means that I can have two tunes and just swap a pulley to go on a long trip and run 91 all day long. That's sort of why I'm leaning away from E85. Not saying I won't consider it in the future but yeah.

On 93 octane people are making 650 rwhp on the 2.3 with 14 PSI. So certainly running 91 I should at least make 600 to the wheels on 47's. We'll see where we hit on the dyno.

I'm told you run into weird drive-ability issues with > 80lb injectors. Has anyone heard anything on this or experienced it? I absolutely do not want drive-ability issues with this vehicle. E85 scares me since I already only get about 180 miles to the tank on average -- if I run E85 I'll probably end up with 120-140. I never take this vehicle on the highway for more than 3-4 miles. I can't just swap E85 to 91 in the same tank, it's a different fuel type.

I'm going to try to squeeze as much power safely out of 91 as I can -- we're doing EVERYTHING we can to make this run cool. Only then will I actually create a 100 octane tune with more boost. I could care less if my 91 tune is only 550-600 to the wheels -- I'm hoping to hit well over 700 rwhp with 100 octane.

I'm trying my best to stick with Ford Racing parts wherever possible -- that's why I wanted to run the FRPP 80's.

 

[SILV03MustangGT]

I am running ID1000 injectors and a vortech BAP. I would rather pay 3.xx a gallon. I'm making more power on half the boost with my setup. E85 is awesome!

 

[BUCKET]

Stay away from 80s......

 

[guarnibl]

Stay away from 80s......

This isn't really a useful statement unless you provide some information

 

[SILV03MustangGT]

This isn't really a useful statement unless you provide some information

Some people have had issues tuning them. I went with ID injectors because they are the best on the market and what my tuner recommends. They flow within 1-2% and they are flow matched from factory.

 

[TRDon]

There is nothing wrong with ford 80s. I have helped build 2 cars in the last 2 years that went 80s and e85. one was a 99 2v on3 setup that went 700/690 and a 05 t trim turned on3 70mm that went 665/630.

Edit, forgot to mention they both ran and drove like stock. No tuning issues what so ever.

 

[BUCKET]

I have 80s......

Going to IDs....

2011+ seem to not be as 80 friendly